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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 11:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 2:12 am
Posts: 4
Question: do any of you guys know if the barrel on the CP99 is interchangeable with the one off of the Nighthawk (which has a slightly longer threaded barrel than a regular CPS) Anybody know how hard it would be to dismantle and reassemble the pistols? I can’t find a parts diagram for the Nighthawk or the CPS anywhere, I do have one for the CP99 though and may have to just go with that. Also what tools do I need to do this job? Any tips and insight would be much appreciated. Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:02 pm 
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Location: ONTARIO " CANADAS WANG"
i am pretty sure the barrel is interchangable but you would have to modify the shroud where the barrel exits as the nighthawk has a longer barrel where it is threaded and would not fit the shroud without some drilling and filing


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 4:55 pm 
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420revolution wrote:
you would have to modify the shroud where the barrel exits as the nighthawk has a longer barrel where it is threaded and would not fit the shroud without some drilling and filing


I am looking at the schematic diagram for the CP99 and I’m not sure what you mean. Would’nt the longer threaded barrel just stick out further once installed into the CP99? They are the same diameter and only vary in length by a few centimers or so. (or so it looks like anyway.) How complicated do you think it would be to get the barrel out without skrewing up the rest of the gun, and do I need any special tools or would regular philips screwdrivers work?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:20 pm 
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Location: ONTARIO " CANADAS WANG"
i was just looking at one of my cpsports same 3.5 in rifled barrel as a cp99 and the end of the shroud is a hole .239 in while the od of the barrel is .333 in and the nighthawk has the extended threaded barrel that would have to fit though the small hole at end of shroud with out hampering the tread on procedure of the compensator so u would have to drill the shroud for the compensator to thread on properly the whole way. only a flat screwdriver is needed to remove the barrel


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:33 pm 
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You are talking about the exit hole on the front slide right? You’re saying that there is enough for the CPS barrel to fit through but not for the compensator to fit as well right? Do you know of any easier way to get a compensator on my CP99?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 5:42 pm 
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Location: ONTARIO " CANADAS WANG"
imho that is pretty much the only way and would only require the hoel to be incresed to about .4 inch for the proper seat of the compensator in the barrel shroud like a 2 minute job given u have the nighthawk barrel and compensator and the little screw on dealy for when the compensator is off to cover the threaded end of the barrel


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2005 5:04 pm
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Location: TDot
I have an idea.
home depot sells aluminum pipe 3feet cost me $11. use a diameter which covers the front slide screw. likely 1 1/2"-2" diameter.

Then i JB weld 2 washers on either end flush to the holes on each side (drill one washer so the screw that is on the front of the slide fits through beforehand) . The washer hole coincidently fit over my barrel nub. sprayed the fake supressor flat black.

Image

now all you need is a really long flathead screwdriver or drill a hole on the fake supressor near the slide screw you will be using to hold the fake supressor in place. use this second hole to tighten the slide screw.

Just make sure the washer fits over the black barrel nub on the front of the slide.

_________________
'In the game of chess you can never let your adversary see your pieces.'
'If we hit that bullseye, the rest of the dominoes should fall like a house of cards. Checkmate.' -Zapp Brannigan


Last edited by Syn on Wed Apr 04, 2007 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:12 pm
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Location: ONTARIO " CANADAS WANG"
i like your idea syn but would want to get a different screw for the slide as the one that is in it is designed to be flush against the slidemount and you mightt not have very much thred holding the imatation "s" once you get out past the original countersink in the slide and the washer depending on the thickness you use and how sturdy u want it to be or if u have access to a mig maybe like 8 or 10 spot welds to hold on end cap as from my experiance jb weld works well but tends to fail if put under any reall stresses


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