Canadian Airgun Forum

You guys are making me want to get into archery. I've done it a few times back in the days with the old style bow's and would love to get a compound bow and go nuts.

Hi, there. I have been looking over the responces to your questions posted. I myself am a NCCP certifed coach for beginners archery, in Manitoba. All the answers given are correct to a point, in certain contexts. If you are new, defenatally go to a archery shop, not a outdoor supply store, or department store. It should not matter that if you shoot a compound or recurve first. Your results in hitting the center of a target will come quicker with a compound. As there are mechanical methods to aiming. With traditional or take down recurves, your hitting the bulleye or getting a 10X hit, takes alot more practise. First I would recomend that you do not shoot at a target. Rather focus on getting your form correct. Trying to do the exact same thing over and over. Getting small groups of arrows. Accuracey will come automatically.
As for your question of what bow is best. That will depend on what you want to do with your bow. Shooting targets only, hunting possibaly, 3D archery (animal targets at different distances), or Olympic desires. These all have different equipment. Test as many different kinds as you can. It is sort of like buying a automoble. Purpose for, what you like about different types, and how much can you afford. If you plan to compete, say hunter class for instance. You do not want a scope on your bow. There are different kinds of rests, sights, peep sights, stabilizers, and bows to choose from.
Remember that this will take practice to become good. Make sure that you do not over strain your body. The muscles you use in archery are slow to develop. Only pull back what is comfortable, that you can do with out effort, or noise.
Archerytalk is a great, blog about archery stuff. Do your due dilligents to confirm what you read.
As for if a release is helpfull. I your draw weight is killing your fingers. Then it would be helpfull. Make sure that your finger does not touch the front of the trigger untill, you are aimmed at your target. If you prefire you can punch yourself in the mouth, and the arrow can go were you may not want it to go. I hope this helps you.

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Slava 618,620,622
Crossman 1377,760,766,Phantom.22, Siloette,357x 8"
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you have a very nice range and shop right therein Peterborough: http://www.saugeenshafts.com/

I made the mistake of buying a used compound from ebay. Very nice older bow for $100.00 but it didn't fit me. Later ended up buying a cheap recurve barebow, and love it. I would say take a few lessons before you buy to make sure you are getting what you want the first time.

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Airgunning is my hobby... and it is cheaper than
maintaining an outside relationship with another woman.
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Thanks Ted. Saugeen is actually where I've been going.
I think next time I'm there I will spend some quality time trying equipment, getting advice and maybe picking something up....

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-Canadian Plinker

I have the most fun shooting my 45# recurve. Its light and quiet and with some practice you can intuitively aim quite accurately.

I also have a 45#-60# martin compound bow which is nice, but its heavier and the sights are less intuitive.


If i could chose only one bow to have it would be a ~60# recurve compound hornbow mongol style.

Those horn bows are the nicest bows around IMO.

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CZ Slavia 624 .177
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I am a bow instructor, both for target and hunting. The best choice is a lower powered recurve for target shooting. You should take some lessons to get your forum correct. If you want to shoot a compound then the new bows are much faster and shoot flatter. That means you will get a better group with new bows easier. When you shoot with a release you remove 50% of your arrow flight problems. I teach with a recurve bow 62" 20# pull. It is a good teaching bow. What type of shooting do you want to do? Shorter axle-axle distance is better to carry but the longer axle-axle is easier to shoot. Sights, rests and stabilizers can make a big difference as well. Let my know what you are looking for. I have a target recurve from HOYT that I took in because she could not pay me. It has custom strings etc and I will only ask what is owed and that is $600. it is a left hand bow. chief5@RIPNET.COM -Glen

Lots of options in this world, with lots of gimmicks! Threw the 90's I shot PSE bows, mainly the Mach series bows I found them the most forgiving for target. These past years I watched PSE drop out of the game for some reason! Of all the manufacturers out there, I personally would go with a Hoyt. Hoyt has been around since I got into archery, many manufacturers have come and gone but Hoyt's has always been there producing excellent and innovative products.

Mechanical release was my preferred method, I mainly used carter but used cheap caliber type for hunting. The mechanical release definitely allows for cleaner release of the string and reduces if not eliminated the string from rolling which is very typical with finger releasing. I always used a release loop on all my bows strings, you can buy metal ones which are easy to install but I found they create extra momentum which made the string over travel into arrow rest.

As for arrows, if you read magazines from the 90's to present you will notice how arrow technology hasn't really changed. Carbon is definitely the way to go since they can take a lot more punishment then aluminum, the aluminum can loose they're straightness very easily. Front of center in relation to arrows has been an argued issue with arrows since I can remember, and every so many years the magazines reverse there angles to try an increase sales. From my years of service, I found lower FOC arrows might shoot flatter but the high FOC arrows shot tighter.

I could go on about archery but I'll cut this short! If your looking at target sights look up sure-lok they are amazing and solid!

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