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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 3:20 am 
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Hey guys,
today i answer the question (ENGLISH SUBTITLE) if the pellets in a tin have the named weight on it. And how big is the range of weight between the lightest and heaviest pellet in it. Is it worth to sort the pellet for competition shooting? I tested 5 different pellets on these attributes. I weighted more than 2000 to answer these questions:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8UBS2JxVDk

Thanks for watching my video, if you like it, it would be great if you give it a thumbs up on YouTube. So i can see that my work was worth ;-)
Have a great day
AirGhandi

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 2:30 pm 
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That's a whole lot of work... Personally, I would have been curious to see the difference in POI between the various weight (within the same box).


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Do you plan of resighting the rifle each time you change weight?....

Bob

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:47 pm 
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I thought there would be more variation in one pack, but it's good to see there isn't. I'd probably only consider weighing if I was doing a very intense competition. Very interesting- thanks for the tedious weighing!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 2:53 pm 
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Location: Sherwood Park, AB
I don't believe small variations in pellet weight result in measurable changes in POI at 10 m target distance.

Less work intensive than weighing pellets, and for a more meaningful test, I suggest checking pellet balance and shape. Even a slightly malformed pellet affects its flight path. For the test, simply roll pellets on a level table top. If a pellet wobbles, discard it. An even roll is a good pellet.

My perspective only.

Ozzie


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 3:17 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
I would suggest washing and lubing pellets might be a better method than weighing.

At extended ranges, say 50yards to 100 yards, pellet weight will make a difference, if the pellets varied 1/2 grain or more. One or 2 tenth's - probably not, UNLESS the weight difference was due to missing lead.

The suggestion above for rolling the pellets as suggested by Ossie, would make more sense than weighing, especially with quality pellets, like the JSB's are used. Weeding out the damaged pellets from a tin, BEFORE washing and oiling - Then rolling again afterwards, will likely reduce groups more than weighing and segregating by weighing.

I use an electronic scale for almost all of my handloading, but - when I absolutely must know to within a 1/10th grain's weight, I use a beam scale. A good beam scale is more accurate than the electronic scales.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 8:45 pm 
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Location: Sherwood Park, AB
Daryl's suggestion to wash and lubricate pellets is a practice I have followed for a long time. In practical terms, I rinse all pellets in warm water with a drop of dish washing soap, then rinse them thoroughly in warm and clear water, place them on a paper towel and let them dry completely, then finally spray them very lightly with a coat of Lemon Pledge. I believe a posting by TCooper many years ago inspired me to follow this process.

Ozzie


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:18 am 
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I just watched a video of Si Pittaway saying he washes all pellets at the sink, in a large Pyrex measuring cup, warm water and dish detergent, pretty much the same as Ozzie noted. The only difference, is Si sprays them with WD40.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 2:57 pm 
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Hey,

yes, there were really big differences in one box of pellets.

I wanted to test if it is a big difference on the 50m lane, but i didn´t hat the chance to try it out till now. I hope i can do a second video and show it...

sorry for that!

Andi

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:40 pm 
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Location: Alberta
I suggest washing and lubing pellets and weighing , can make a big difference 50 yds and out.
I buy 4 cans at once and then make up different weights in what ever can , it usually ends up a few grs apart in weight.


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