Canadian Airgun Forum

Hello all!

Just wondering what fellow members are using to maintain their hardwood stocks? I’d like to find a product that will enhance and preserve the natural beauty of Walnut without appying a glossy/ permanent finish.

Cheers!

Aaron / Avianmanor

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

Tru oil is not glossy

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I use bees wax for protecting my wood stocks, not hard on finishes and not glossy/permanent.

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If everything's so lovely yeah, then why don't I, why don't I, why don't I, why don't I feel lovely?

Hi hogman3006, I've used Tru Oil and find it's more a permanent finish type product rather than a simple oil -even applied via finger as recommended it gets sticky as it dries and forms a film over the hardwood.

I'm wondering if perhaps simple mineral oil would do a nice job -I've used it for years with excellent results on a number of Bali Exotic Wood Carvings I own.

Bees wax also sounds like a very good idea airmec, Thanks!

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

ANY finish that is properly applied that is a shiny finish, can easily be rubbed back with pumice, rotten-stone or with 0000 steel wool to cut the shine to a dull glow or matt finish. ANYONE can do that.

Tung OIl is a good finish, as-is True Oil. True Oil is likely the easiest to apply. With either finish- wait 24 hours or more before applying the second coat. I use my fingers, putting 3 or 4 drops on the stock over an area of about 6-8", then trun that in, and continue until the stock has a complete coat. Put it away- hanging on a wire is best, in a dust free environment for that time, then apply second coat. If the finish feels a bit "GREEN" wait another day. After the first coat is dry and hard - then you can apply more coats once a day. If you do not give the finish time to harden completely it will never harden & always feel green. Tung oil has the feeling even after it is hard, for some reason.
Examples of True Oil and Tung Oil finished stocks I have done.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

These are true oil and/or Tung oil.
here's some more examples

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Best Wishes
Daryl

Most recent Tung Oil.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

Very nice looking work Daryl! I'm getting similar results using the Tru-Oil product on my Daystate Huntsman.

I'm reluctant however to use this product on my new FX Streamline Walnut (below), it has a more open grain look I wish to maintain without sealing up the pores of the wood, or using abrasives. Looking for alternate products that would penetrate the wood without sealing it.

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

Did you guys use the Danish Oil ( Watco )?

I used it when I bought an unfinished wood pump arm for my 1322. Maybe a pump arm will be used more hardly than a stock, I noticed the spot I put my hand on to grab it to pump has worn and turned white color... Will post a picture later tonight when I get home...

Don't know if I can use other oil product ( like the tru oil you are talking about) to re apply on it...

As said the danish oil also has the penetrate ability to get into the wood, so I don't think sanding etc can remove it once applied....

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~Plinkers~
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~Competitors~
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Boiled Linseed oil should do what you want. It will penetrate but not cover over the pores. Apply with a rag and wipe off excess after 10 minutes. You can thin it out with mineral spirits for more penetration.

Poly finishes and Tru Oil will cover over the pores. A thinned poly might work for your needs with a single coat. A 50/50 mixed could be tried.

Mineral oil won't dry. Some people use it on cutting boards to provide some protection without being a food contaminant. Walnut oil is another one that's similar.

Another one for boiled linseed oil, have used it on all my oiled stocks.

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My airguns: https://barx.org/airguns/

I remember after several danish oil coats, I put a final layer of the Cobat wood finish on top... Maybe the white color marks were come from it...



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~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

Watco Danish Oil Finish is a product for indoor use -it's designed to stain, seal and protect bare wood surfaces. I've used it extensively around my home, which has solid wood walls construction entirely of Western Redwood. Watco oil is normally applied by brushing it on and then waiting half an hour or so for the product to be absorbed by the raw pre-sanded wood surface, after which time, any remaining Oil Finish must be wiped clean from the surface with a rag, otherwise it will create a blotchy uneven film. This process is repeated several times until the wood will no longer absorb any more oil. Over time the Watco which has been absorbed by the wood will harden and seal it up completely, providing a flat finish with no sheen whatsoever. A finishing coat or two of Paste Wax is recommended for those who wish to have a satin sheen. For sure this a permanent stain sealer, and very few products can be applied on top of it. I suspect it would look really nice on a properly prepared stock (sanded down to bare wood) as a new finish from scratch, and is available in a multitude of colours including natural. Unfortunately it's another sealer type product that eventually hardens and seals the pores of the wood, which is not what I'm looking for in the case of the FX Streamline Walnut stock.

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

I have question~ if only penetrate into the wood grains, but without sealing, can it provide enough protection on the bare wood ? And will it feel 'oily' when your hand holding on it?

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_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

Hi YepYep,

From my experience, the Watco Oil Finish actually penetrates and seals the wood grain, and eventually dries completely without feeling oily or tacky. However, it may take some weeks after application for the surface of the wood to loose it's tackiness to touch. I'm not really sure if this is the most suitable product for something that is going to be handled on a daily basis - Tru-Oil is probably your best bet for that. Is there a specific look or property you are after in terms of the finish on your stock?

Cheers!

Aaron / Avianmanor

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*