Canadian Airgun Forum

Hi,
I've heard of people drilling a hole in the stock and then screwing it in just like the pistol grips screw in,I noticed the little circle on the rifle stock (see picture) and I was wondering if I drill in the middle of this, will that line it up with the hole for the screw?




I was also wonering also if anyone has any tips for oiling/greasing the gun, its bran new and I've never bought oil before so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions of what kind of oil to buy and what I should use on the O ring of the valve to keep it from drying out?



~Iain

as far as the oil goes, i always use automatic transmission fluid. just remember that a couple drops go a long way. you might try some white lithium grease on the seals, but it probably isn't necessary.

i wouldn't get too gung ho about oiling and greasing though. i've got a crosman 1077 i'm working on now that only started leaking after i greased the valve. preventative maintenance is one thing, but sometimes it's better to leave things alone when they're working.

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not too bad for a 23 year old university student, eh?

I agree with that 110%, don't fix it if ain't broken ...

Thanks for the advice, I'll pick up some oil soon but I'll make sure it use a dropper and probably not use it until Its needed

~Iain

To answer your first question. . .yes, drill through just one LRCH forward of the center of the mark and you can use the grip panel screws to secure the stock.

While you're at it drill a hole up through the bottom of the stock and thread in a set screw to further tighten up the stock (mine doesn't move at all).

ATF is a great lubricant! Dirt cheap and very effective. Thumper's right though, use it sparingly.

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Fiat Lux

PM me for FTP/valve combos, RVAs, DPHs and assorted brass accents

also, there's one important thing to remember about storing your gun. first of all, don't leave it charged for long periods of time. i'm talking days and weeks here. that's usually what damages the seals in the first place.

for pumps though (which i'm not too familiar with) i've read that it is best to keep the gun slightly charged (only a couple pumps) to help the seals maintain their shape.

other than that, it's pretty much routine firearm maintenance. keep it dry and clean it every now and then.


while we're on the topic--i'm thinking about trying a new kind of lubricant for cold weather. it sprays as a liquid that quickly evaporates, leaving behind a fine synthetic powder. i can't remember what it's called, but it doesn't sludge up in cold temps like an oil would. might be worth a shot.

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not too bad for a 23 year old university student, eh?

Sounds like graphite. I would be concerned about damage to the seals from the solvent. As long as this stuff does not contain petroleum distillates, you should be ok (and if you aren't how hard is it to replace the seals. . .).

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Fiat Lux

PM me for FTP/valve combos, RVAs, DPHs and assorted brass accents

true...i was thinking about only using it on the hammer, but now that you mention it i guess it isn't really worth the risk when i'm positive the ATF works.

lol, thx for saving my butt some time and money.

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not too bad for a 23 year old university student, eh?

transmission fluid will ruin the seals..
crosman pellgun oil or SAE 30 Non detergetn morto oil only or equivilent

what material are the seals and o-rings made of?

i have always been assured that ATF will work until now, and i've yet to have any problem in the 4 years i've been using it. in fact, i've had paintball manufacturers recommend ATF as a lube for all seals in their products.

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not too bad for a 23 year old university student, eh?

i did a quick search and here's what i've found:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Automatic%20Transmission%20Fluid

scroll down until you see the list of chemicals compatible with ATF. if i remember correctly, the seals crosman uses are neoprene...and that's definitely on the list.

if the seals aren't made of one of the chemicals on that list, PLEASE LET US KNOW.

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not too bad for a 23 year old university student, eh?

The black o-rings are Buna-N (Nitrile). ATF won't hurt them.

WD-40 will melt them down pretty good, and Hoppes #9 will make them really soft and sticky.
LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) is a definite no-no.
3 in 1 oil? Bad
Air tool oil works but it tends to dry out and get gummy. Nasty stuff but it works in a pinch.

As near as I can tell, Crosman Pellgunoil is ATF in a little tiny $2 tube.

I bought a litre of ATF for $2 almost 7 years ago and have used it in all of my paintball markers since then. The only time I have had trouble with o-rings I have used one of the aforementioned lubricants (and subsequently had to change all of the o-rings).

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Fiat Lux

PM me for FTP/valve combos, RVAs, DPHs and assorted brass accents

Use all types of O-Rings, Nitriles, Teflons etc in the remanufacture of hydraulic systems that the preferred fluid is Dextron III (atf).takes the heat better and also works as a cleanser. Can not be used with systems with natural rubber seals, like some of the Mercedes or Audi's use. Must use very expensive mineral oil for those. I don't have any old airgun seals that could be put in some atf for a period of time but that would give you the definitive answer. Just a newby, 1st post but as I utilize seals & O-rings of all types & makes in pressurized Hydraulic systems it piqued my interest.

http://www.logwell.com/tech/O-ring/ Explanation here

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If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.