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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:25 am
Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
Before buying duct seal, I phoned around to a bunch of electrical supply stores. Back in 2000 the price went from $1.86 per one pound brick to $3.00. I bought 8 bricks from the cheapest place and I'm still using the same stuff today. After around 35,000 pellets the duct seal is still working fine and not hardened up at all. It's a dense putty and it seems to retain it's density over time.
I use about 1.5" thickness for 500fps airguns. This worked fine for a 600fps HW30S too.
My pellet trap is a homemade thing that I put together from some wood scraps that I had around the house. I put a 1" layer of duct seal and then chopped up what I had left and added about another 1/2" of the putty. As was said, the pellets stick to the surface.

A search brought up the following:
http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtop ... =duct+seal

http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtop ... =duct+seal

http://www.airgunforum.ca/forum/viewtop ... =duct+seal

Todd

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
Thanks. That gives me an idea of what I'm trying to do.

I use those big clips too, to hold targets and tin cans etc. for my current trap.

The duct seal I got is grayer and cheaper than what you have...it may not be as good as yours?? Anyway, I'll use what I have, 7-8 lbs at first and more of it if needed. Noise is not an issue here, mainly I want something that lasts longer and is neater than what I already have.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 11:04 pm 
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Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
My reason for the duct seal trap was to eliminate the lead dust I was getting with the heavy Outer's metal rimfire trap. The duct seal trap is a lot cleaner to use. I also appreciate the low noise for indoor shooting.

You must have found a good price. I thought $1.86 was reasonable for a pound.

Todd


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
Nobody can hear the gun noise here over the music. At least, that's all anybody has ever complained about...a guy running around outside with a gun at night is OK I guess, they're used to me, they hardly ever see my mug shot on the front page anymore...

I thought you had paid the $3/lb...it was $2.48/lb at HD so price levelled out a bit since then. Not as good as apparently the $25/case, but that's just hearsay and I'll go with what I have already just to get it done.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:19 pm
Posts: 900
Location: Ontario
cfraser wrote:
The duct seal I got is grayer and cheaper than what you have...it may not be as good as yours??


Don't worry you've got the same H.D. stuff that I have. It's dark grey, almost the same colour as the pellets. It works very well, trust me.

Todd your trap looks almost exactly the same as mine, it's even got "lip" at the bottom and the space below the duct seal! The only difference is mine is more rectangular, and is now painted. Must be a good design I guess :D


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
OK, I believe you guys! :D

A SMART person would take a shot at a duct seal brick stuck in his existing trap and judge from that. I wonder if I could do that?? Sounds way too complicated...

I guess 10x10" is OK for a trap size? How big is yours? My current one is roughly 12x12, which sounds about the same but is actually around 50% bigger. That 10x10 looks a little small at 10m, but we are talking target shooting and if I can't hit that I might as well give up...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:46 am 
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Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
My duct seal covers 10"Wx8.5"H of inner area. The outer dimensions of my trap measure 11"Wx11.5"H. I find this size works perfect for a common 8.5"x11" photocopied paper target. I clip the target to a piece of cardboard that covers the trap opening. This backer helps keep the little bits of paper and pellets inside the trap. The lip works great for this purpose too. After shooting a couple hundred pellets, the reservoir at the bottom of the trap contains pellets that bounce off other pellets, paper bits, cardboard bits.

Todd


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
Yeah, that makes sense for the target size...I didn't think of that as my bought ones are smaller. Will print them in future, guess I'll just have to fold them a bit and change them more often...

I used an old (well, it's "old" now) baking pan folded etc. as a backstop and "lip" inside my current trap. It collects the pellets and other detritus, works well. Maybe I can adapt that pan or borrow another one for the new trap. Sure hope there won't be any cooking going on for the next couple days...

Edit: I found that .22 pellets from an HW30 at 10m almost got through the thickness of one brick, which is about an inch. It's kinda cool as when you pick the pellets out of the duct seal they look unused (no, I won't re-use them). That gun is rated at 130m/s, 426fps, but I don't know what it really is. So I decided to add a second layer of duct seal, though you probably don't need it for under 500fps, but we will fire some more powerful guns at it. So I have 15lbs total of seal in there, and room for another 2 more layers if/when I go PAL airgun. The metal box has a lip after all, so didn't have to fool with that. For anyone who might want to use a steel box, the one I got at HD is fine but you can get a larger frontal area Hammond steel chassis box (12x10x2") for about the same price good for 2 layers of seal bricks and has a lip.

LOL, after looking through all the duct seal trap threads (including this sub-forum, which I didn't do before) I see everything I did and said has been said and done before. Typical...I really didn't know. I can also see why the commercial version of this comes across as slightly bogus or misrepresented in some ways.


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