Canadian Airgun Forum

anybody ever made their crosman tube smooth?

im wondering about something like soldering over the writing to fill it in, then sanding it down smooth, then painting the tube.

any thoughts on how that might turn out?

Yes that has been done before.
But remember if you are going to do something..... later, like HPA, just remember the tube is still "Weak".
Because it is "Heavily/Deeply Scribed and can be as dangerous as a "Exploding PineApple".

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ive never tried it on main tubes or nothing but on the stocks ive gotten that are chipped or gouged deeply ive used autobody filler (painted afterwards ofcourse), it sands down smooth and can be used on metal obviously lol just an idea

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It's better to die quick fighting on your feet, then to live forever begging on your knees - Lamb Of God

is autobody filler a metal? i would want something that is going to bond to the metal tube.

it works on fenders, hoods, doors... like i said ive never tried it but its a plausible option, whether it works or not is a different story

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It's better to die quick fighting on your feet, then to live forever begging on your knees - Lamb Of God

how is it weakened? im talking about filling the writing with soldering, then sanding down only to original thickness.

ill try the bondo thing today on a spare tube i got and ill let ya know the results then sleep perhaps... bondo smells good lmao!

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It's better to die quick fighting on your feet, then to live forever begging on your knees - Lamb Of God

take a big hit.... then when you need a breathe, only let a bit out and replace it with a bit of air... that will buy you a few more seconds of holding it in.... you can repeat this step for probably a full extra minute of holding it in.

good luck.

Bondo will bond to the metal, but I would suggest to use the fiberglass bondo. Its the same thing mixes the same way and will bond better and last longer. Also a tip when mixing bondo DON'T use cardboard to mix it on. it changes the composition in a bad way...


-never mix any type of bondo on a brown paper or cardboard piece. Brown paper or cardboard still has sodium hydroxide (lye) in it. The lye is used to pulp the trees in the production of paper products. The bondo draws this chemical into the mix and it weakens your filler. Bondo is best mixed on polyethylene mixing boards, auto body paper paper pallets, or even on zip lock bags pulled over a board underneath. We once did some destructive testing in our wood restoration shop with fillers mixed on brown paper bags or cardboard. By our estimates the adhesion strength of the bondo was reduced by as much as 30% or so.-


^found this online, I used to work in a custom wood work shop and we did the same tests with the same outcome.

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lmao and if my lips turn blue am i doing it right?

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It's better to die quick fighting on your feet, then to live forever begging on your knees - Lamb Of God

Solder likely won't stick to steel. Liquid steel might work if you clean all the paint out of the lettering.

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If I had only one wish, it would be to be able to "unsay" things.

Would use bondo myself.

Solder "sticks" to steel just fine if you use flux.....similar to lead body work on cars.

Al

X2 ive done some lead work on a former beaumont i owned but it this case id try bondo lol

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It's better to die quick fighting on your feet, then to live forever begging on your knees - Lamb Of God

If you go bond (which will work well) be sure to prep the surface with sulphuric acid to burn off all impurities and coatings.

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