Canadian Airgun Forum

I have a Crosman optimus 495 with the center point 4x32 non ao adjastable scope. I shoot 20 yards every time i shoot, and the scope wont hold a zero. for example, I zeroed the scope one day and shot the next day, and it was off. the scope rings are tight, I rest the rifle in my hand, and let it recoil where it wants, and I shoot when there is no wind. I'm thinking its either parallax, since there is no adjustment, and the facotry set the scope for 15 yards, even though i try to hold my head in the same place every time. or, the scope cant handle the recoil of the springer, and something internally is shifting throwing it off. even though it is meant for springers. what do you guys think?

Thank you

A factory setting of 15 yards doesn't sound right, but you can easily set the parallax yourself by loosening the locking ring of the objective lens and turning the lens itself. To set to a closer distance turn the lens CCW. Look through the scope when pointed at a target at the distance you'll be shooting and move your head up and down, side to side, and when the crosshairs don't move with the motion, but stay on target, the focus/parallax is set. RC

Its parallax to 50 Y, Not 15.

Have you adjusted the ocular on the scope so that it doesn't move around when you do a head bop? If you've done this correctly then the cross hairs won't move depending on where your head is at.

Springers wreck cheap scopes.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

i looked in the Manuel this morning, and it is 15yds

Well online I gotten 30- 50 Y. I gotten manuals for complete different scopes than the one I bought.

Did you get the factory to set it for you to 15 yards?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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He stated the value was retrieved from his manual. For the OP, what model is the scope? I get 30 yards in all the sources I have found so far. Still looking though.

btw, my understanding is you are better off tossing the centerpoint and buying decent glass.

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I have some airguns.

Check trigger screw that fastens stock onto gun and the screws that hold the stock on. Scope shifts that is normally what it is for me. Now I blue Loctite every screw after I remove them.

Same here - all screws on springers (HW's) are lock-tighted. I believe it is likely foolish not to do this. The BAM 28C I had for a while, would loosen tightened screws in 4 shots. THAT was a kicker/vibrator. I gave it to a friend who thought he 'needed' a magnum springer. BTW - tightening the screws with lock-tight stopped the screw loosening, but did not make it shoot any better. LOL

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Best Wishes
Daryl

I have a Ruger Airhawk (full power spring) and screws would loosen in a few shots and I was zeroing my scope everyday and shooting erratic. Thought I was having scope trouble. Stock screw on bottom was loose and scope would jump when fired. Loctite on three stock bolts tight and the rifle shoots quieter now and sounds more solid. Learned my lesson. LOL

The problem is its a center point scope.... These are the cheapest and crappiest scopes on the market.... Although its included with a springer it is not made for a springer.... I used a buddies once on my qb57 and after a couple of shots the crosshairs turned diagonal....

With all due respect:
I totally disagree with you. I shot my Ruger Airhawk scope for months on it. Then beefed it up to a full power spring and shot it. I still run one on a Crosman 495FPS spring gun with a Centre point. It is still going strong and have shot it a lot. I have shot a lot before I switch to Leapers scopes. (Three Leapers scope) I think Centerpoint scope are very good for a cheap scope. My Ruger scope is pretty much a centre point and have shot it a lot to without problems on different air rifles. We will wait till he checks his screws and see.

Usually the parallax is set to 100' for airguns, but it makes sense that a 500 model would be less. Now my question is did they actually set it less, or better q is did they bother to set it at all? My guess is they're slapped together and all they do is count the turns on the threads when installing the front lens. I seriously doubt they spend the time to physically look and adjust to whatever claimed distance.
Another biggie imo barrel droop which means the scope and poi are not lined up and you had to turn your elevation screw way out to compensate. Sometimes the spring inside can't hold the guts under that firing cycle, and sometimes the spring doesn't even go that far so the guts are just flopping around.
It's ideal if the screws are at the midway point for both image quality and better spring tension. So I'd shim the scope and see if that helps. Generally I center the inner tube by looking down the front lens with a flashlight, then shim the scope until it's fairly close to on target or you're hitting a bit high, then use the adj screws to dial it in.
Could also be the gun is simply spraying pellets. They are low end and can have serious accuracy issues. How does it shoot with open sights? Don't rest the gun on anything firm or hard btw, best if it only touches you.
If you haven't heard of shimming a scope there should be info here or online, or I can send it to you; chevota at hotmail, and what I'll send includes lots of other helpful stuff for that gun.