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I've done it. Why? b/c it's fun.... You can kiss accuracy and what not goodbye but it's fun to play with. It's also extremely loud, like 22LR loud, so factor that in... Depending on how your guns power was reduced you'll get different velocities from the fuel. The more psi generated inside the more it'll diesel, so if you have a hole in the piston you won't get as much burn and much of the unused oil and flame will go thru the hole into the spring area. I don't believe that'll hurt anything but after a while I'd imagine it'll start dripping oil out the cocking slot and make a mess.
I have not seen any real drawbacks but it could be harder on a metal coil spring. Meaning it certainly can't be good for it, but I have yet to break a spring for any reason so I can't say any one thing will break one. Imo they only break due to defects, but who knows. If too strong a "fuel" is used you could risk the piston launching all the way back and bottoming out on the aft end, which would be worse but no guarantee it'll break something. A 500fps gun will make less boom, but also easier to push the piston all the way back. I've never had that happen and I've used WD40 which is a strong fuel. There are stronger, like gasoline, but I would NOT try that! Mostly I get dieseling from motor oil which I use to lube the main seal, and since I lube more often than suggested I get a lot of dieseling on avg. It doesn't seem to bother anything other than my ears so I often shoot it w/ the barrel stuffed into a tightly rolled up bath towel, which is also my indoor pellet trap. The factory often uses grease, like Stoeger which uses so much it takes 1-200 shots to stop dieseling.
Imo putting oil/grease in the skirt is better b/c the explosion happens outside the chamber. If the fuel is in the chamber then it takes the brunt of the explosion and the pellet gets less. Plus if you use grease in the skirt you can measure the amount and have them ready for use. If the fuel is in the chamber then measuring is a pita and it'll have no consistency. Fyi you can try diff greases and experiment by adding motor oil to them. Just don't use any silicone, you want good old dino juice.
Your seal was no doubt damaged from the factory b/c they cram it in there w/o care and it gets cut up on all the sharp edges of the holes and slots. Now that you've reinstalled it I'm guessing you have even more damage. I'd buy a new seal and smooth all those sharp edges b4 installing. You can often save an oem seal by sanding the face down until the damage is gone, but you can only sand so far or the dovetail at the center will hit the breech metal to metal when fired, which is very bad. How much the seal needs to extend above the dove to act as a bumper varies gun to gun, but I'd say .015" should be safe for any gun. I've had them kiss metal at .008". To truly tell where that happens you have to sand, install, shoot, take apart, inspect, sand, repeat until it kisses. So .015 is easier than all that. The bonus is the gun make more power and shoots better, so I like to sand them as far as I can get away with. Fyi; a dry fire is harder on the gun and compresses the seal even more, so try not to dry fire if you've sanded.
Motor/petrol oils/grease can damage a rubber seal, but so far I've only seen one for a springer that was made of that stuff. It's a 28mm for a Diana, black and extremely soft. so soft that I'd imagine it may allow metal to metal contact as-is. Not sure who made it but clearly by someone who was looking to make a buck w/o regard for the user. One other seal that's an issue is Weihrauch b/c they apparently have a low melting point so excessive dieseling can literally melt them. Other than that I've had no issues using petrol lubes, or dieseling for entertainment. If you want details on seal sanding and smoothing the sharp edges, you can write me; chevota at hotmail, and I'll send you my tuning pkg which has all that and much more stuff you can do.
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