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 Post subject: Chinese springer
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 7:37 am
Posts: 1186
Location: ontario
Ok guys I picked up a few airguns at the gunshow on sunday and I need help with one. It's a chinese break barrel model Tl820 700fps from 60's-70's maybe even a little earlier. It sounded a little dry when I shot it so I opened it up and guess what I found in the compression tube...... any guesses? I found half a nail and a pin!!! They both scratched the litter out of the compression tube and made so many burs and uneven spots it wasn't even funny. The leather seal was all hard so I soaked it in oil over night with not much luck I'm lucky the nail and pin didn't wreck it. I filed the burs out of the compression tube as best I could. But what I need is a new piston seal that goes on the front of the piston. Since it's made of leather is there a way of making a new one or getting one somewhere? The piston seal is the same size as the CZ 630/631 piston seal but i'm not ready to put one in as this chinese springer has a lot of piston slam which would wreck the CZ piston seal. So any seals out their that would fit this odd chinese break barrel and that would be durable? Thanks for any input.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2005 5:56 pm
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Location: Sherbrooke,QC
Go see a shoe-maker for your leather seal.My slavia add a seal leather and the shoe -maker made me one and i have good result whit that.
pascal


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:25 pm 
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Location: ontario
I never thought of that. thanks. I will try that this weekend.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:26 pm 
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Location: Cochrane, Ontario Canada
I wonder if a brake cylinder hone (auto parts store) would work to clean up the burrs in the compession tube? You would have to be very careful not to pull it out far enough that it would catch in the cocking leaver grove.

I replaced the leather seal in my Telly with an "O" ring type piston. It seems to work well but I have only fired a couple of shots out of it. I don't know durable it will be.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 7:14 pm 
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Location: ontario
I thought of maybe getting a hone. It would probably work too. O-ring type piston seal you mean rubber?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 1:47 am
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Location: On and on south of Vulcan
Cheaper and easier than getting a hone. . .

You need a drill, preferably cordless, a plastic coat hanger or piece of wooden dowel, 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

Cut the long side off of the coathanger and chuck it in your drill. Tape a strip of medium grit (ie. 400) sandpaper to the coathanger. Wrap the stirp of sandpaper around the rod and insert it into the tube to be honed. Lubricate with lots of water and spin (push it in and pull it out to evenly sand the entire bore) until you are bored. Then switch to 600, 800 and finally 1200 grit (if you really want to go that fine). You can finish it off by polishing with toothepaste on a rag, on the stick (whitening toothepastes generally contain diatomaceous earth (the silicate shells of diatoms) and make very good polishing compounds).

This concludes my polishing a bore tip for the day.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:02 pm 
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Location: ontario
I'm gonna try that. thanks man.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:45 pm 
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Location: Cochrane, Ontario Canada
RM422 wrote:
I thought of maybe getting a hone. It would probably work too. O-ring type piston seal you mean rubber?


I should have taken photos of it :oops:

The leather cup was about 1/4" wide so I removed it and installed a brass piston 1/4" wide with one ring groove in the center of it. Slipped on the "O" ring and put it back together.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:42 am 
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Location: ontario
That makes sense. It should work as long as the o-ring seals properly. One way to find out is pick a day where you have a lot of time on your hands and shoot the rifle like 100 times or more and then take it apart and inspect it see if the o-ring held up.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:29 am 
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Location: Cochrane, Ontario Canada
RM422 wrote:
That makes sense. It should work as long as the o-ring seals properly. One way to find out is pick a day where you have a lot of time on your hands and shoot the rifle like 100 times or more and then take it apart and inspect it see if the o-ring held up.


A lot of time on my hands :roll: I haven't had that problem (or luxury :wink: ) since I was 14.

If I knew someone with teenage kids I would lone it out for a week and give then a couple of cans of pellets. As long as it shoots good I won't take it apart.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2005 12:38 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Edmonton in Canada.
As to ustilago's suggestion of polishing it I would have to disagree. Just like in an engine you want a minute amount of lubricant to stay on the chamber wall. By polishing it there's so little lube left that it wears the piston out.

I would recommend honing up to 600 grit at the most and going up and down quickly to create a good cross-hatch (XXXX) pattern.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:06 pm 
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Location: ontario
Well it's too late now I just followed ustilago's advice and it worked out great!!!

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