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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 9:08 pm 
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Do yo take the trouble to bake it as well? It's too bad that LeanardJ doesn't participate here...he has perfected Crosman painting almost to an artform.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 10:05 pm 
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Location: BC Canada
airgunfun wrote:
Do yo take the trouble to bake it as well? It's too bad that LeanardJ doesn't participate here...he has perfected Crosman painting almost to an artform.


Nothing but food goes into the oven or the wife will kill me. :lol:
I leave small painted metal objects on top of the furnace or water heater at least overnight; usually for a day. Paint fume get suck up the chimney and it is nice and warm in that area. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:04 am 
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Hey ETA, did you have to do any machining to the frame to make the barrel from Mac-1 fit???


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 11:10 am 
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Location: Penetang, ON.
I'm curious about your orange valve mod. A: How did you do it, B: what did you use for it. and C: Whay did you do it? It looks like that big chunk o' orange would decrease your valve volume somewhat....wouldn't it?

Ryan


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:19 pm 
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airgunfun wrote:
Hey ETA, did you have to do any machining to the frame to make the barrel from Mac-1 fit???


I got a machined barrel housing from MAC1, it came with the barrel as a set.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:26 pm 
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Wrong Way wrote:
I'm curious about your orange valve mod. A: How did you do it, B: what did you use for it. and C: Whay did you do it? It looks like that big chunk o' orange would decrease your valve volume somewhat....wouldn't it?

Ryan


It is almost impossible to get the crusty old seal out of the brass cup that holds it. :P
The brass cup is totally machined off with the crusty seal. The new seal is a chunk of orange HDPE with a thickness that will put the sealing point about the same as the original valve. The center of the new seal is drilled slightly undersized so it is a good air-tight press fit to the valve stem. It is a tight press fit, the new seal is not going anywhere. :wink: The valve seat is also slightly tapered for better flow.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:44 pm 
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Gotcha. Did the same thing to mine today, except I used a piece of nylon out of an old 1322 valve. Good tip!

Now one for you: To get the old seal right out of the brass cup, chuck the stem into the drill press or dremel, spin it as fast as you can, and hit the brass end with a torch. Takles about a second and a hald for the crusty old seal to liquefy, and the g-force spins it right out of the cup! Can you get just those seals anyway?

Ryan


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:10 pm 
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I wonder if a machinist could make a punch to cut the stem seal from a thin piece of teflon. Actually, two punches might be needed. One for the outer diameter and one for the inner hole. AirgunsCanada once did the stem seals but I don't know what was used for material.

Todd


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 12:45 am 
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Wrong Way wrote:
Gotcha. Did the same thing to mine today, except I used a piece of nylon out of an old 1322 valve. Good tip!

Now one for you: To get the old seal right out of the brass cup, chuck the stem into the drill press or dremel, spin it as fast as you can, and hit the brass end with a torch. Takles about a second and a hald for the crusty old seal to liquefy, and the g-force spins it right out of the cup! Can you get just those seals anyway?

Ryan


Thank for the tip.
I am lazy. :oops: Too many parameters to fit something back into the old cup. Also, I did not want to go back to soft inefficient rubber/urethane seals.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 12:54 am 
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TCooper wrote:
I wonder if a machinist could make a punch to cut the stem seal from a thin piece of teflon. Actually, two punches might be needed. One for the outer diameter and one for the inner hole. AirgunsCanada once did the stem seals but I don't know what was used for material.

Todd


No need to use Teflon. Teflon is soft and not easy to work with. Better to use harder HDPE; or Delrin or nylon if you can get the precision fit for a good seal. Most modern PCP use these harder seals.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:20 am 
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Posts: 17
Hi guys ... this post was 2006 ...
here we are in 2013 ...
but these guns date back to the mid 1960's
and I have one.

Where oh where oh where did this guy get this scope mount ???

I had a scope mounted on mine with
duct tape and hay wire !!!
( state of the art ) :roll:
. . . this looks like what I've been looking for
for years !!!

Pardon my enthusiasm - long time shooter
but new to this on-line form on the subject.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:10 pm
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IMAGE - forward ( I hope )

Nope ... sorry guys - I dont know how to make the image show up
but if you go to the start of this thread - there is an MK1
with a scope mount and red dot scope.

If anyone knows where I can get the mount
It would be very appreciated :)

Thank You.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:10 pm 
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Location: Surrey B.C.
The solow moint is no longer made though you may find a used one. Maybe check out the B square #42877 as others have used it in the past

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If you think education is expensive, try ignorance.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 1:09 pm 
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Thank you .


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:11 pm
Posts: 3
Hello,

Need new valve stem seal for Crosman Mark 1 Target pistol, CO2 powered.

I’m in Canada, would prefer Canadian supplier but not limited to Canada.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Em…


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