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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 1:34 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
Installed Crosman steel breeches on all these "pistols". This is a quick job, you can do it in less than 5 minutes once you realise it really is that easy. Recommended of course, possibly the most substantial bang for the buck in Crosman parts for owner satisfaction about your gun's construction... I wish all the guns were finished as nicely as the breech steel is.

Downside of the breeches: not much if you're mounting a scope, which is the real intention of these I think. They also hold your barrel much more firmly, and you'll have to lose the stock plastic spacer or cut it to fit...I say leave it out, it's not doing much now. If you want to use the stock rear sight then you'll have to sand most of the base off...a pretty quick job and works fine, though the metal sight piece will sit at a bit of an angle (because of rounded breech end piece) but still works fine. You could always cut it short to fit nicer...

For the 1322, the bolt is very sloppy in the breech for a phase II as there is no tension from the cocking mechanism (separate cocking). I like the separate cocking, but there's no reason you'd have to keep it if you didn't want to, a few more parts needed to do that. I tried all sorts of things to tighten it up, but really nothing worked, the bolt is kinda loose to start with, they could have been made from somewhat larger diameter stock IMO and still be smooth enough.

With the new breeches, all the guns sound different. I don't know what that means...but it's noticeable. They are also noticeably heavier, more than you might have expected...more substantial.

The 2240 was converted to a 2250 with all 2250-different parts installed. They are reasonably priced IMO. Considering the breech change, mainly only the grip frame+integral parts is re-used. I used the 2240 action tube cap and made an adjustable length "prong" for it out of brass rod (threaded joiner) to get the CO2 cart spacing right (they were out of the 2250 cap/prong that day, the 2250 action tube is longer than the 2240's to accomodate the foregrip). The 2250 forestock is really lame, possibly even worse than the 1322/77 forearm as far as thickness, built for baby hands unlike the 2289's one. OK for holding though, something needed with a stock. The 2250 action tube is much less obnoxiously engraved with warnings than the 2240. This is still a pretty light gun with the 14" barrel, noticeably lighter than the 2289 in my hands. With all the parts (incl. breech) handy, the 2240->2250 conversion is a less than 1/2 hour job. Bear in mind I've never even taken a gun apart before this...this is real beginner stuff.

Oh yeah, removed that really annoying stock-holding pin from the 2289 while I was at it, I got cuts in my hand from it.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:51 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2005 11:30 pm
Posts: 1897
Location: North Bay Ontario Canada
on the 1322 if you want to get rid of the slop put in a light sping inside behind the bolt that will fix it up


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
Thanks Kevin. That is one of the things I tried! Great minds think alike, fools seldom differ, etc. Unfortunately, springs are something I have virtually zero of, not something I use in any of my other hobbies, so didn't have anything long enough and light enough. I'll look around a bit harder now that I know somebody else thinks it might work. Took 2 ballpoint pens apart while sitting here typing, springs almost look OK, let's see what else I can wreck to make the 1322 bolt good...

The breech retaining screw on the old 1322 has a decent sized Robertson/slot head, wonder why they changed it to the delicate 0.050" Allen head? Perhaps to prevent over-tightening? That's what I think anyway.

I would not mind lighter trigger action springs in the 2289 and 2240/50, the 1322 one looks the same but feels much better. Could be because it's well used and the others are very new.

Those 14" .22 barrels are very decent, they look very well rifled to me, better than some other brands of .22 barrels I've looked in. And pretty cheap too (actually, the cost doesn't vary that much by barrel length).

Oh yeah, in case I gave a false impression, I spent MUCH more time doing stuff than those times I mentioned. Dicking around, cleaning excess oil, making parts, installing scopes, etc. But those times are about how long it would take to put the parts together if that's all you're doing. Just so noobs know it really is easy, especially since all these guns are very similar, nothing to be afraid of, no skill required, I did it!

Edit: that ballpoint pen spring works perfectly. Uncoiled and stretched it a bit so it's longer and larger diameter so it doesn't fall out. Just enough tension to snap the bolt closed and hold it there, but light enough you can load with one hand still, and not so much metal in the spring that it restricts the amount the bolt can open much. :D


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:26 pm
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Location: Southern Alberta
cfraser wrote:
Oh yeah, removed that really annoying stock-holding pin from the 2289 while I was at it, I got cuts in my hand from it.


I hate that thing!!! Did you drill holes in the stock and screw it to the grip frame after you took the pin out?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:43 am
Posts: 2879
Location: Pickering, Ont.
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Did you drill holes in the stock and screw it to the grip frame after you took the pin out?


Yup, did that the day I got it. The stock was a tiny bit wobbly without screws, but not bad. I knew that pin thing would be coming out one day... I really don't see much point for it, it takes such a short time to screw in the stock screws and make it solid, it's not as though you're whipping out your 2289 and suddenly attaching the stock then breaking it down again after a quick shot. At least not most of us.


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