100 yards with 500fps - sure - in .177 not so much, but mass makes a helluva difference for range.
There is a delay (as you can imagine, a little over half a second
between firing and hitting the pot gong, but ya, very doable and since pellets double their width hitting aluminum, still significant energy. A plinking challenge.
I should note that I have found the pointed crosmans to fly at least one scope graduation better than round or hollow points of the same brand @ 100 anyway. I got a batch of hollow points once that had the hollows off center and everyone was a spiral to some degree. Cleaned the gun more then I ever did trying to figure that one out...
Dialling it back makes sense, and I did do it once inside last winter but frankly since I rebarrelled the gun to 24 anything less than 25 yards feels kinda like jabbing something with a stick easy to hit. My goal with this thread was more to lay down all the things one can do rather than troubleshoot my gun specifically.
Scope is a cheapy barska with range finding reticle so thick that at 9x it still obscures to much of the target at 100 (like more than a MOA). The most, and only power I shoot on is 6x which offers best useful magnification to fat (I may be guessing on this shot) reticle shooting. It is a rear focal plane, but fat like a road line. Parallax was a problem out of the box but since been adjusted. Since it is set to 100, I recognize the 65 will suffer but I do the owl check (depth perception head circle) as needed. Scope does not have an easily adjustable objective.
Noted on the POI change by magnification modification. Another reason I use 6x as it allowed for the easiest range drop use of the reticle graduations between my 65-100 targets.
I zero @ 25 but maybe I will try a fixed 4x bushnell with hairline duplex reticle. Maybe my cheap scope is providing cheap scope performance and my glass is a pain in the buttock. Kinda need graduations to play with across the power of a cart though, at least as my valve is setup now.