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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:52 pm 
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Lucked out today big time when I went to pick up some new weaver/pica mounts being offered dirt cheap and the seller happened to have this old, made in Japan scope that I bought for just five bux. It works fine as is and the mounts alone are worth the few bux (pity they aren't see through). However it is stuck in one zoom level, somewhere around 4. No matter how much I turn the zoom knob it doesn't change. Is there a way to fix this? Have never worked on a scope before, short of doing a parallax adjustment on a diff scope in a thread started by Lleader (which only dealt with the front of the scope, not the back where the zoom wheel is at).

Speaking of parallax: that's the other thing I'd like to know, how to adjust it in this scope. The one Lleader has a tutorial for (Daisy 953 with the scope combo) has a screw cap that once removed lets you rotate the objective (or whatever the front lens is called). There is no such cap in this one but I can see the same style threads at the front of the scope, as depicted in the pics below.

So two things: how do I get the zoom to work and how do I adjust the parallax? Seems like a daunting, hopeless cause for a new user like me but I have this sense that the experts here will let me know how easy it is (fingers crossed that's the case)

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:31 pm 
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I'd say a set screw below the "5" need to put in to get the mag to work, and there should be a mark somewhere down inside there where the oem screw left a dent. If not you'll figure out how it goes.
The front lens is glued and/or crimped to a thin metal ring that threads into the scope, which you can see. Typically there is a similar thin ring in front of it that which is the lock nut, or the locknut is that thin ring which is the last few mm of the scope as viewed from the side. If you've removed that end part which it looks like, then the ring holding the lens can be turned using that little slot with the scratch next to it. It may be tight, maybe some corrosion or locktite etc. The scope was most certainly made for a firearm so the parallax will be way off for airguns use, so imo this work has to be done. The other problem is who knows how strong it is so it may not survive a springer. I should say probably will not survive. Those mounts will almost certainly not hold on a springer either.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:42 pm 
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Thanks for the reply. First off I don't plan to use it on the only springer we have, a rather tame Ruger Explore youth rifle. We have others, better pneumatic that could benefit from a scope.

I 'll take a look and see if the screws for the rings are a match. If so I'm in luck. If not I"ll just remove the other scope screw and bring it to a local bolt supplier that has every bolt ever made.

As for the parallax adjustment, that is what I was thinking. But before I risked anything wanted to first ask. I fear that it may have locktite in it, which could make adjusting it very hard, and at the risk of a flathead screwdriver slipping off the slot and scratching the lens.

This is going to be a delicate surgery. Clearly not something I'd allow hacked2pieces to go near.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:43 pm 
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It may be hard to move objective lens, but you can put something inside the notches in the inner circle and turn the lens assembly counterclockwise (unscrew) to reduce paralax distance.
I have cut the tip of old screwdriver exactly as the lens diameter between two notches, made it sharp from both end and unscrew it holding as shown on pics. I recall it required quite a bit of force to make it first move, but after this it turns smoothly but firmly.
Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:50 pm 
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vitalymezh that is a great idea. I have the tools for cutting a screw driver bit just right and to sharpen the end to fit. This may take some fiddling with but I like the way you did yours. Clearly moving one side only would be virtually impossible.

Cool, thank you both for the suggestions.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 11:27 pm 
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vitalymezh, I was lucky enough to be able to rotate via only one of the notches, using a thin flathead screwdriver. I turned it some 5 turns till it wouldn't turn anymore. However I still get parallax. While having the scope sitting on a table and looking at a target I get a fair amount of movement, unlike the scope on the 953. So in order to double check this I turned it back all the way and incredibly, there doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.

So now I turned it back counterclockwise all the way till it wouldn't go any further. if that's the best I can get it to be at, so be it. But a bit disappointed that parallax movement still exists.

Now to tacke the tiny hex bolt.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:39 am 
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No luck finding a screw to fit under the 5. Will have to try The Bolt Supply in a couple of days. Tried to emulate what the tiny bolt would hold on to by inserting a pin in the hole and turned but nothing budged. Still stuck at 4x. If I could get it up to above 7 I'd be pretty happy and wouldn't need to touch it again.

Mounted it to the Crosman 1077 and to my surprise these ARE see through rings and work really well on this rifle. Since getting this rifle that came with a red dot I've been meaning to shoot it with the iron sights. Now I can do that and use the scope. Win, win.

Still though, the small bit of parallax is there and it makes life hard. But the scope itself is plenty decent, being a 40mm. If I could only find a better way to fix the parallax it'd be great. I can live with the magnification as is, but without the parallax being less it will be tough getting groups at a dime from 6m away.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:20 pm 
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The scope was probably set to 100 yards so it may take more than 5 turns to get it where you want it. But know that it takes progressively more turns the closer you want it. If you have an adjustable objective scope you can see it takes but a little bit to go between 1000 and 100 yards, but substantially more to go between 20 and 10. Also, the closer you set it to the narrower the band it will work. This is why a fixed 100yrd works so well on firearms because that setting is covers a large range of say 50 yards to probably over 300 which works for most every situation. If you set it for 10yards/meters for target shooting then you'll have problems when shooting something at 30 because that 10yard setting will only really cover a short 5yard or so range beyond 10. It also depends on what the shooter considers acceptable parallax, one guy might consider a 10yard setting only good at 10 yards, another will consider it still good enough at 20. Like the 100yard oem setting, an expert target shooter would not use that for a 200 yard shot, but us Joe Blo's would.
So, I wouldn't try to set the parallax to a closer setting than you need because it will take many more turns to do so. What I do is pick an somewhat middle range of maybe 70' which will cover maybe 50 to 150' somewhat well which is where most of my shooting takes place. The reason I don't pick 100' which is in the middle is because parallax goes south quicker at closer ranges, like the 100yrd example covering 50 to several hundred.
Also, the lens should unscrew all the way out of the scope so it's simply stuck for whatever reason. Maybe back it off, clean the threads, add a drop of oil....


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Thanks for the detailed explanation, it now makes sense to me why I can't get it adjusted to my desired under 10m (most of our shooting is from 6 to 10m, indoors). The scope isn't really needed but it adds to the fun.
I suppose my mistake was to not consider that this is a hunter's scope and not a target one, such as the one that came with the 953. On that one adjusting the parallax was easy as the 5 turns got me right where I wanted it. It is likely set at 25 or 50m from the factory. This likely explains when I run out of turns in this old hunters scope and still can't get the parallax down to my desired sub 10m.

I doubt I can turn it any more than the 5 turns I got out of it. It seems to come to a definite stop. Same as when trying to turn it towards a longer range (clockwise, towards the front of the scope) where it comes to a full stop. So I suppose there isn't much I can do beyond just using it as is. Which isn't too bad if I can train myself to keep my eye in one place with every shot.

Ace suggested that adding the screw under the 5 to not help with adjustment of the zoom. I guess there's not much harm in trying, if I can find the time to run to the store and locate one. Failing this is there a way to somehow turn the inside so that the zoom will increase? At around 4x it is workable but would love to bump it up a couple of levels.

Hey, it was 5 bux. And since it has see through rings, I'm not missing out on anything. It's just nice to push the limits of what you can get for a mere 5 bux.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:11 am 
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It should unscrew, after it was out before it was installed and the factory, so it should come out again. I'd say 5 turns is probably close so I'd keep trying. If there's something stopping then it should be obvious to see, like a dent in the threads or something... Hard to say exactly but I'd imagine 3mm would be close. I assume you are unscrewing the lens, as in moving forward, like towards the muzzle?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:01 am 
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You are correct, these were put together by screwing, so there should be no reason for they not coming out all the way. Unless the factory intentionally placed a dent on the threads to prevent the lens from coming out all the way on its own.

And no, I am not unscrewing it in order to adjust the parallax, I'm going the other direction, counter-clockwise towards the back of the scope (tightening). At least that's what I thought would "lower" the parallax as I had done with the scope that came with the 953. In that case moving the objective towards the rear (counterclockwise) yielded a perfect parallax (topic62920.html)

Would this not be the case with this old hunters scope? I suppose in my case I may have run out of threads, which could explain why I can't rotate the lens any further back. But yeah, if I could remove it all the way by rotating it clockwise towards the front then I could take a look inside and like you said, add some oil in case there's dirt on the threads. But as pointed earlier it too comes to a stop after some 5 turns from the very back. Hmm maybe I should reach up for that oil can and give it another try.
Thanks for the help. I'm not giving up on this just yet. After all this is the wife's gun and I could do without the bad parallax that I'm sure is bound to result in criticism.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 11:34 am 
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No, you need to move the object towards the muzzle to reduce parallax at close distances. You're heading out towards infinity, and maybe beyond ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:24 pm 
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Seriously? Odd. Cause with the scope that came with the 953 it was towards the rear. Lleader's instructions topic62920.html worked flawlessly.
But that is news that I can welcome as there's a chance I may then resolve parallax problem I'm having. Great, will try that later today and will post results. Thanks for the help, guys.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:30 pm 
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You should probably reread my post. :) You definitely want to 'unscrew' (lefty loosey) the object lens towards the front of the gun.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 2:23 am 
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I suspected that might've been the problem which is why I threw that out there. Common mistake, no big deal and lesson learned. What the scope was set for before will determine if you need to go in or out, and how far, but most people need to move the lens forward toward the barrel. If a generic scope is set to 100', but the person want to shoot at 150, so then it's opposite. Or maybe someone already set your old scope for garage duty of 15-20' which is why you had success going the other way. Typically airguns scopes are set to 100', firearms scopes 100yards. So being a firearm you have longer to go, shooting extra short range you have further still, and having gone the wrong way first you have further yet. I'd probably go ten turns at this point, but it's up to you. I assume for others reads you've figured out how to get just right for your range?
A higher mag level will amplify the problem so you might use that to help you dial it in.
Once set for your range I'd consider marking it or something if you ever plan to shoot outside, because outside you'll be screwed with that short setting and need to adj again. So I'd mark it or just count how many turns to get outside dialed in, then write that down so you can change back n forth really fast without hassle. After all that's all an AO scope does, it moves that same lens but at a faster rate, and has markings for diff ranges... So same deal, it's just the AO are faster/easier to adjust.


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