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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:20 pm 
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Location: Stavely, Alberta
Excellent stuff Kim.

Didn't realize you worked with wood. I thought that was Jen's forte :wink:

Very nicely executed.

DaveD :D

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:47 pm 
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So what was the reason for the aluminum plug from the top? I didn't figure that one out, except it looks quite nice :)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 2:54 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
Dave I never ever said I didnt know what to do with wood. Just it wasnt my cup of tea so to say... :lol::lol:
I did however use my wife's stuff and lived to tell my story... :D :D :axe: ... :lol: :lol: :lol:

As for the aluminum cap. Being that the upper crack was so high and long.
I didnt want the contrast of birch. And I was out of black acrylic rod, so alum became the choice. Being the gun is a bead blasted SS it only seemed fitting as well. Also for the cap on top, well I didnt want the upper crack not supported properly. So drilling down vs up was the best choice... IMHO do it right, once. The first time. :D

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 4:10 pm 
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Ah, I see. Yes, that makes a lot of sense. You're thinking a step ahead, where as I always seem to be a step behind when I do these sort of things. "now if only I had..." being the most common thought when looking at my 'finished' work.

Jim


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
New stocks are cheap in the US, like ~$33 delivered, but probably double in Canada? I like fixing stuff too and that's a nice fix. They break because it's cheap brittle wood, but it's the very sharp reverse recoil that causes it to break. If the stock screws are loose it will magnify the problem. If the main or breech seals leak it will magnify the prob, and they almost always leak. There's also dead air space at the center of the seal which if you reduce the shock is reduced. Then there's dry firing the gun which is shooting it without a pellet and that is by far the hardest on the gun. I think as long as it isn't dry fired and the screws are tight it should be fine, but I always install new seals too. There's also a D shaped part that connects the stock to the bolt behind the trigger, that should be there and a snug fit.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:50 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
Thanks Chev.
But when I received the gun. I tore in completely down and tuned it to my specs of a tune. It left my hands with a very nice suttle thunk of a shot cycle. One can only asume that the stock may have had previous damage in sued from the previous owner/ owners. Not seen due to its current refinishing job it had received, from the trade party. It was after all a trade item. As for the action holding clamp it will be Acra glassed into place. Never did it before due to no reason too. But due to the break in the pistol grip. Fix it right. :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 4:43 am 
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I suppose he could've dry fired it, or let a kid use it who would no doubt dry fire it.
So why glass bed? I was actually thinking about bedding one gun, but I was thinking silicone sealant to help dampen noise. I was thinking about hogging out some wood around the receiver to make room for extra silicone inside, then drilling a couple holes deep into the butt and filling those too. Maybe even filling the cocking slot with a slit for the linkage to pass thru. A lot of other people want to reduce noise too so several have been waiting for me to do it, but if by chance you do it first...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 5:05 pm 
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Location: Alberta Canada
As to the guns previous history unknown. Dont care either. At this point.
Glass bedding the stock, nope just the support block.
As for lining a stock with silicone for sound dampening and vibration. Knock yourself out with that. To me its like a telephone conversation I had years ago with not sure Watts or McCarie. (Learn to shot the damn thing, its a spring gun. Was the jist of it....lol)

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