TKs guys - Yes - I'd be glad to help in any way I can.
Td85 - I shoot period correct rifles, handguns and smoothbores, competing with them every year at rendezvous and weekly here on our trail walk as well. I also successfully hunted moose with my favourite rifle, in the past.
Feel free to pm me, or e-mail might be best.
I have been involved in muzzleloader shooting since 1972 and have made a study of this sport. I have built a few of them myself, but lack the patience needed for fine work as observed below.
dtsapergia@shaw.caThis is my custom made 14 bore hunting rifle of 1850 period English design, held by my late hunting buddy, Brad.
This a new acquisition, a .50 cal Verner bench copy also made by my bother.
This, an English 20 bore build by a fellow in the states named Hunkeler. I know no more of him. I use this for trap shooting as well as in the round ball events. A 20 bore makes a good 50yard moose or deer gun, due to it's 320gr. round ball and ability to use about any powder charge deemed safe.
I also compete with this pistol in those events at rendezvous, also built by my bro. It has both .54 and .45 cal barrels that fit. With the .45, the ignition is cap-lock,not flint. The conversion takes only a few minutes to replace the barerls and locks.
I will add a suggestion for someone wanting to get into black powder shooting and perhaps hunting with them. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle in .54 is perhaps the best way to start. It is the closest reproduction to a plains rifle you will find. Too - they are not overly expensive and much better $ to $ for what you receive. The Great Plains Hunter that has a fast twist and shoots slugs is not a good idea at all, due to the extra recoil, cost of shooting and necessity to replace the nipples often. A cap-lock ignition is also the best type to start with.
I do not shoot, nor will have anything to do with inline so-called muzzleloaders. I know they exist, but have only ever seen 1 at the range with the guy testing it- that was about 6 years ago. In my opinion this is due to the EXTREME expense of shooting them - they are horridly expensive to shoot.
If you do not cast your own round balls, they run about $20.00 per hundred. I cast mine, therefore they are almost free. I pay .50 per pound for pure lead and a pound of lead casts 30, .530 round balls.
Powder costs $26.00 per pound of REAL black powder. I will not use phony powders if I can help it. Hodgdon's T-7 is the only one I know of that does not use perchlorates in it's mix. Perchlorate fouling will dissolve the iron molecules out of your steel barrel. The only moisture necessary is that from a water based lubricated patch- or humidity in the air over 34%. Do NOT use Pyrodex.
Please use only real black powder. If you cannot find it, use T-7 or Tripple Seven, however you want to say it. It is only suitable for cap lock guns & costs more than real BP..