Canadian Airgun Forum

Thank you, Todd, your comments are much appreciated. This time around the 006 seal was the culprit. Once more I cleaned the valve seat thoroughly and installed a new o-ring. While at it, I also changed the piston seal, which I shimmed as you recommended. The pistol holds pressure, I only hope it will do so for more than 300 rounds.

Best regards,

Ozzie

Ozzie,

What are you using to lubricate the o-ring seals?

Ted

_________________
RIFLE:
Benjamin Titan XS .177
PISTOLS:
Benjamin Trail NP .177
Umarex Trevox .177
Beeman P17 .177's (2)
Beeman P3 .177
Bear River BOA .177 (2)

I use LUPUS PTFE High Tech WAFFENFETT.

This is an acid free lubricant containing Teflon. I bought this many years ago from D&L, paid $22.30 for a small 50 gram tub. It will last me for the rest of my shooting days.

Ozzie

one of the best lubes for O-rings is SMART PARTS SLEEK DOW 33 LUBE
just a little go's a long way...

_________________
"A candle loses nothing by lighting another candle"

I was using a Mil-Comm TW25B Extreme Performance Synthetic grease, then a Synco Super Lube PTFE high-temp Synthetic grease. After 2K+ rounds in each P17\P3, Both lubricants tended to disappear, dry out and initiate slow, small air leaks. Decided to look for other solutions.

Now, I'm using the Pellgun 30W oil by Crosman (recommended by Air Venturi [P3 importer]-specially formulated for pneumatic and CO2 systems) and my slight air leaks (P17's) and major air leak (P3) sealed up and disappeared. All three SPP's maintain full FPS, even when sitting on the shooting bench loaded and cocked for 10-15 minutes! If you haven't read already, Page 3, post #35 of this thread starts a good "o-ring lubrication discussion" by several members.

Time will tell if this pressure tight sealing lube becomes a permanent lube application solution!

Ted

_________________
RIFLE:
Benjamin Titan XS .177
PISTOLS:
Benjamin Trail NP .177
Umarex Trevox .177
Beeman P17 .177's (2)
Beeman P3 .177
Bear River BOA .177 (2)

Mine came with moly on metal piston. I plan on nothing on mine. I have a 1008 Repeatair and has never been oiled in over 20 years. Joined this forum and decided to oil it with pellet gun oil on the CO2 caplet and it started leaking. Sometimes it is best to leave something undisturbed and seal up from age, dirt and grime. Fix em when they quit shooting good. Just saying.

I have used LUPUS PTFE High Tech WAFFENFETT on my air guns for years without any problem. In other words, I never experimented with lubrication. The P17 presents a special challenge forcing me to step out of my comfort zone. For now this pistol works again, who knows for how long. Next time I am forced to take the gun apart, I will definitely work with some of the suggestions of this thread.

OzzieM

My 2010 "Beeman P17" is labeled as "Beeman Model 2006" on the package, "Beeman Model 2004" in the manual and "Beeman P17" on the pistol's frame. I guess the manufacturer was using up old packaging for the latest name tag for this pistol. I'm still curious if it's actually made by Snow Peak Airguns (SPA) in China.

I looked through the P17/M2004 manual and it states that the piston seal requires very little lubrication and to use one drop of Joint Grease every 5000-6000 shots or 8-12 months. They also recommend one drop per side of Moly on the hinge pivot. I guess this is some sort of liquid moly. I remember the days when the Beeman catalogue had lots of lubricants available. Their latest web site shows none that I can find.

My original P3 manual from 1999 states to use Feinwerkbau Joint Grease on the piston seal.

Feinwerkbau has a Special Gun Grease that is rather expensive. It's advertised as a synthetic, acid free grease for use on PCP airguns.

My old Daisy 717 had an o-ring piston seal similar to the P17. The manual stated to lubricate with 20W-ND automotive motor oil.
http://www.manualsdir.com/manuals/55723 ... tml?page=5

Crosman recommends Pellgun Oil on their multi-stroke airguns. As previously discussed, this is just 30W motor oil with a red dye added.

Alright ! This P17 thread has 99 replies now ~

And I just picked up my replacement last evening.

This time it looks much better! I should take a picture of the previous one for a comparison as I am not sure if my memory is right, but the replacement looks much better even the plastic frame give me a better touch and feels. Maybe the last one was from an old lot ?!

Of course it shoots good this time. I don't have a chony , but from the depth the pellet into the wood, it should match the 400fps rating showed on the clamshell~

Sent from my LG mobile

_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

Glad you got all fixed up. Enjoy!

[emoji481][emoji481]

Sent from my LG mobile

_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

The real question here is why doesn't everyone own a P17!
If you shoot your P17 until it falls apart go ahead and spend the money on a P3, you know the gun, you know you like it, you know what it can do and you'll love your new pistol.

_________________
Facebook is like ancient Egypt, people write on walls and worship cats

You can’t buy a single airgun for everything. Golfers use many different clubs, airgunners need more than one gun

Yeah! That's very true and it's exactly what I planned.

So far it looks I like the P17, the recoil-less shooting is interesting. And the super simple construction and design of the gun is like an art.

It looks like I am waiting for it falls then I can put my hands on it~

But maybe I would do an initial cleaning and maintenance job on it this weekend because I just found the below YouTube that is very helpful and hands-on demo for replacing the 2 main O-rings. Although it's not English, but it doesn't matter~ right?! ^_^

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BN7lKyZMTmU

_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

Hey YepYep.... there is a better way to remove o-rings than the way shown in the video. I would never recommend prying them off an aluminum piston with a metal screwdriver. You don't want to accidentally gouge the piston. Try the pinch method for removing o-rings.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiDoJCfTbM

Hmm ~ learnt something good today ~ thanks !

It's helpful for me because I am not going to replace the damaged o ring but just try to take care of it only... maybe I don't need to remove them, I think I just want to make sure the piston and the tube in good shape and redo the lube job only..... (maybe just want to disassemble it... lol )

Sent from my LG mobile

_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe