Canadian Airgun Forum

X2 it's what I talked about in a different post.

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Custom Design by ME PCP/HPA Air Carbine 10-50X60 Scope My 2018 FT Open

Only real way is to make your system, test and record results.

All we're after is to have the compressor temp be below 65°c-150°f.
It does look like it could have some positive results.
Will it work better than water and ice in a 21L pail? Most likely not.
But to have a closed loops systems that keeps the head temp of the pump below say 60°c would be great.

Has anyone took a temp reading on the Gold Filter canister while filling?

I didn’t figure it would work better than ice in a pail, but i just thought i throw an idea in there, but I didn’t know Frank had already posted the idea.


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"The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering."

Bruce Lee

And a GREAT IDEA it is! And it might just be a lot better than ice and water!
It won't have the cooling capabilities like ice and water. But if it keeps the temp below 60°c a closed loop cooling system with a rad and maybe a PC fan
would sure beat freezing ice cubes and carrying them to your pail each time you want to use your pump.
Maybe a few times if you're filling a large bottle. So ya!

look what I made.

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Custom Design by ME PCP/HPA Air Carbine 10-50X60 Scope My 2018 FT Open

Nice! How is it working for you?

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Website: https://airgunarcheryfun.ca/

Tell us more!!!!

I'm not done it's not connected to the pump I want to get proper fitting, it's just circulating making sure no air in system.

sorry I'm a redneck but I get $hit done. next will be a big all house superfan in the back on it pushing a ton of air.

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Custom Design by ME PCP/HPA Air Carbine 10-50X60 Scope My 2018 FT Open

With a radiator that big, the water will probably have a good chance to get nice and cool before it get to the piston again.

Rich

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"The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering."

Bruce Lee

Hey Frank,

That’s a pretty elaborate and, ingenious set up - please keep us posted on the results!

I suspect the volume of coolant flow has more to do with keeping things cool and absorbing heat than dissipation. In my initial use, I found the temperature of the water exiting the compressor head much higher than the bucket of cold water feeding it, so my thought is a higher capacity pump will offer better cooling capabilities. It just so happens I’ve got a couple of unused non-submersible coolant pumps for my various metal working machines, which might be ideal for the application. Next time my Air Hog tank needs a top up, I’ll hook one up and report back with the results.

Inspired by your hour meter idea HuskyDude, I've ordered a couple standard, non digital 120 VAC hour meters on the slow boat from China - once “Old School” always Old School I guess. That’s a good idea to swap out the oil after the first half hour of break in, I’ll do the same. Do wish the piston had a proper main bearing however - will address that after the summer shooting days have passed.

Cheers!

Avianmanor

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

Well build one too and we will compare notes after your done.
I have more pressing things to fix around the house before I can play more with this.

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Custom Design by ME PCP/HPA Air Carbine 10-50X60 Scope My 2018 FT Open

The only real way without getting into too much complex calculations and math is to make it and see if there is enough heat transfer between the pump head and water.

If I remember some of my Physics 101...the rate of conductive heat transfer between two places is affected by the temperature difference between the two places.
Meaning the colder the water being pumped through the pump head the more heat is transferred to the water.
The very best a closed loops system will provide, will be the same as a pail of water at ambient temperature (room temp) with a total loss system. Not recirculating the hot water back into the pail. Even using chilled water in a closed system eventually it would all end up at the ambient temperature.

Wow...where did that come from...better have another coffee....

Here's an interesting read from http://www.overclockers.com/water-cooling-flow-rate-and-heat-transfer/ which suggests a strong relationship between fluid flow rate and heat transfer.

Cheers! Avianmanor

" There is an elementary equation from basic thermodynamics that states that the rate of heat transfer (Q) equals the mass flow rate (M) times a Constant (the specific heat of water) times the Delta T (fluid temp out minus fluid temp in):

Q = M x C x Delta T

In other words, the rate of heat transfer is directly proportional to mass flow rate. If you increase the flow rate, you will then increase the rate of heat transfer. Since you cannot mess with mother nature, it is very naive to think it works any other way."

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*Air Arms S510 Extra*Artemis M11 MK II*CZ 200S*Benjamin Marauder*Brocock Concept*Cometa Orion*Daystate Huntsman*Daystate Revere*FX Dreamline*FX Streamline*Hatsan BT65*Kral Puncher*Reximex RPA*QB78D*Weihrauch HW100S*Artemis PP700SA*PP750*Snowpeak CP1-M*

But Then to trow a Wrench in the calculation there is the CFM of the fan I will use on the radiator that comes in effect and if that fan can bring the coolant to room temp I will be great since My basement is underground and always a cool 12cel year round.
so if I can keep the coolant at 12cel my cooling will be even better than it is now at 51cel.

I will change a few thing in my build Radiator is missing overflow pipe. I have engine coolant and I don't like it I will need to run RainX windshield washer it's better for the environment incase of a spill.
I will use a 12volt power supply a heavy duty one to run a electric radiator fan.

The Pump is heavy duty made to run 24/7 for many years and is fully rebuildable.

I'm thinking or using a heat transfer cooler like a heat exchanger to raise my cooling effect and have it in a small fridge or freezer to run my coolant subzero.
But maybe the subzero cooling would give me more condensation in my compressed air then I want. maybe not worth it.



What you posted about OC.com there is a hiccup to that...... if your flow is too much that your coolant is not long enough in your radiator to have time to cool then all your system will be saturated with head and no way to dissipate it.

I say this in a race car. I had taken out the thermostat and water was circulation so fast through the rad that is did not get proper cooling. after making a washer with a 3/4" hole it fix the problem and all work great so there's a limit to this rule.

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Custom Design by ME PCP/HPA Air Carbine 10-50X60 Scope My 2018 FT Open

Wow if your basement is a constant 12°c ! That will be perfect!
If there is no chance of freezing...ever... then wouldn't straight water be better than any type of coolant mixture.
I know some guys used Red Line WaterWetter in their vehicles at the race track. They were all sold on this stuff. Never used it myself.