Chevota wrote:
I don't suggest shortening the barrel unless it's just a little bit to remove defects/damage at the muzzle end. If 177 you'll lose power, and whatever cal it'll make it harder to cock.
I chamfered, dressed, cleaned up, the muzzle. But I will check this area again. I will try a bucket of water test to try and see any scoring on the pellet.
Chevota wrote:
You can try weight on the barrel, like clamping whatever to it as a test, and if that works they sell a steel brake that weighs ~4.5oz. Should be ~$4.40CA if they're still available; # B19-7-00-100.
There's a link in my guide to a high speed vid of a barrel doing its thing, and this flopping ~ is why they're such a pita to shoot. If all the flaws are fixed it isn't all that bad b/c imo the barrel whips ~ less and it does it the same way each shot so the pellet exits at the same moment and you're good. Imo it's no doubt possible that the pellet will exit mid-whip, meaning if the pellet exits a micro-sec early or late then it'll hurt poi much more than if it's at some other point in the barrels movement. This is imo why small changes sometimes make a big diff in accuracy, or why one pellet is horrible and another of the same wt is great. It's also likely why a gun is so hold sensitive, or super sensitive with certain pellets.
One of the (dumb) things I did when I FIRST got the gun was drill out the breech air transfer hole to 1/8". My old polish .177 is 1/8" and I had a dual calibre Canadian tire gun that I drilled out, it made that gun quite a bit faster. I assumed it was one of the ways they detuned the guns. I'm wondering now if that was a bad idea.
If it was a poor choice I could insert a plug into the hole and drill it a small size. Help make better compression to dampen the piston?
Chevota wrote:
Fixing the air leaks and bumping compression with a seal mod will boost power and dampen the piston impact that causes the barrel to whip. A heavier scope will alter how the gun moves, getting it to move fore-aft rather than also flipping the barrel up and down. You could also buy a shrouded barrel assy, or just the shroud if you can thread your barrel. It should act like a brace to some degree, but since you can't have the suppressor function you would have the option to put rubber inside. Like really fat O-rings or fill it w/ silicone or whatever. I've never tried it but I can't see how it would not help. If filling with silicone then I guess no need to thread it since the silly will hold it together. The shroud assy is 3-pieces and each pc should be ~$2.30CA.
I had a *not* shrouded suppressor on the end of the barrel since the new spring made it so much louder. It added weight, but I couldn't decide if it made accuracy better or worse on or off.
Chevota wrote:
Yes you can put buttons inside the ears to support the aft end of the breech block. Basically strips of plastic ~4mm wide and as tall as the block glued to the ears as far aft as possible. Like the brass washers it needs to be fitted, but in this case it needs to be both snug and matched to the brass washers so they're not fighting each other. I don't know if anyone other than me has a done it but I have given the info to several people. Usually the brass washers work well enough, which should include sanding the barrel pivot bolt. Other than that I'd focus on the main seal leakage and dead air space, and sanding the barrel.
I ordered a new main seal from your recommendations. Actually, that was a couple weeks ago... I wonder why that hasn't arrived yet...
Also, I did the water bucket pellet test. The rifling on the pellet looks perfect, actually. No scraping, galling, no unusual striations.
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