The reticle rotation is an issue fixed with some glue or peening the threads holding the reticle in. It'll make sense if you look in there, but no need unless it moves. The thing w/ the W/E screws is those two screw against the inner erector tube to move the tube and thus your image around. The tube is pressed up against the screws via a little leaf spring, no spring then it no workie. If the gun has barrel droop then you have to adj the elevation up thus taking tension of the spring and now the tube can move more easily. Springers are hard on scopes with that piston impact and the shock of firing can move that tube. It should normally land back in the same spot but most scopes are not precision so it may or may not. The real prob is that reduced spring tension,so if the spring is barely holding the tube in place then, well, you get the picture. On some scopes the spring won't even reach all the way to match a fully raised elevation. So for many peep the spring is just barely holding, or not holding, and unable to set the tube back in place ea time. The fix is shimming the scope which means no need to adj the elevation up and thus more spring tension. Plus it puts the lenses in better alignment for more accuracy. I like to set the scope so inner tube is parallel with the outer, aka centered, then shim until close to on target. Then only very minor W/E adj is needed and everyone's happier.
Another issue is parallax error, so if you have a generic cheapie non-AO airgun scope it's likely set to ~100'. Parallax is like focus in several ways, one is how far off is acceptable is entirely up to you. Two is both are much worse at close ranges. So you can set either to 100M and it's more or less good enough from 50M to infinity. Set either to 10M and it's obviously off at either 5M or 20M. Rimfire scopes are usually set to ~50 yards, centerfire ~100yards which is b/c on avg those #'s work fine for those guns. Airguns shoot at very close range so those setting not work very well. Even the 100' setting for airgun scopes is not good enough for many and need to be adjusted or replaced w/ an AO scope you can adj for each range. Like if you shoot at a 10M target and ~30M for squirrels, you'd need to adj your non-AO scope from 100' to ~17M (the approx middle) or set at or closer to the more important range. Like focus it can't do both perfectly, unless, like focus, it's adjustable.
If you want I can send you a guide on how to shim it, and adj a non-AO scope. It includes lots of other stuff like how your main seal and/or breech seal leakage will contribute to accuracy and scope probs, and how to minimize those probs. Too heavy a spring will do the same and make any leakage issue more pronounced. The oem full power .122" spring is a pretty good match for the gun btw, it's just low quality. A .128 is a bit much, but the OD is as important so do you recall that? What brand/model? Another important factor is how close to coil bind it is when cocked, which is adjustable in that gun so you can always reduce power if you need. There's also the barrel which I can guarantee has serious flaws, which you can't fix but you can make it much better in most cases. chevota at hotmail and I'll send the info. Detailed text and pix w/ arrows n stuff so it's easy to understand
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