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Ace
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:29 pm 
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Bob I punched the numbers you mentioned above in the beginning in the calculator and it gave me 344 Joules... :?
that's why i asked because it didn't ad up... :rolleyes:

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Carpenter84
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 11:01 pm 
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Location: Bowmanville, Ontario
Look for electrical wholesalers. Mine is Sesco electric. There are LOTS. All major towns have wholesalers. MUCH cheaper. 10lbs for $14.

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Ace
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 12:02 am 
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Carpenter84 wrote:
Look for electrical wholesalers. Mine is Sesco electric. There are LOTS. All major towns have wholesalers. MUCH cheaper. 10lbs for $14.

good to know thanks
but highly doubt i'll be needing anymore anytime soon...

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YepYep
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 2:26 am 
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[emoji38] yeah... It looks you never need to buy a second time in your life except that you didn't buy enough to fill you stop in the first time....

Sent from my LG cellphone

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leadslinger
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:06 am 
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rsterne wrote:
I have no idea where you got 344 Joules from.... It is 500 FPE, which is 678 joules.... It peaked with this valve at 529 FPE = 716 joules....

My trap inside is 10.5" x 13" (1" larger all around than 8.5 x 11 paper)…. Duct Seal is roughly 2" x 6.5" x 1" thick.... so for 2 layers I would need at least 20 bars, which is about $75 inc. tax, last time I looked.... That's pretty pricey for something I don't know if it will work for a whole shooting session.... not to mention I would have to clean all the lead out of it when necessary.... With the wood, all I do is toss it away, cut up another cheap 2x4, and I'm back in business.... Even if it withstood a 500 FPE hit, would it take 5 in a row in virtually the same spot?.... I think I'll let somebody else pay to play.... :roll:

Bob


Bob, I would still look at AR500 steel. It alone would handle the FPE you're putting out.

Quote:
3/8” AR500 Designed to handle magnum handguns and rifles up to 308, also great for 223/5.56, 5.45x39, 7.62x39 and similar. These targets will handle rugged everyday handgun use associated with clubs and training.


So with that. You should only need a couple layers of duct seal to prevent pellet from coming back.
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sillymike
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 2:23 pm 
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A while back I was at a range using tire mulch for backstop.
Can't remember how much of it, but it was good enough to stop a 375H&H at 25M... when the pile was getting low, they just pushed it back up

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rsterne
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 7:00 pm 
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Well I got all the materials and put together a new backstop today.... The framework is 2x6s with a 3/4" ply back and a 10" x 14" plate of 1/4" steel screwed to that....

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The top and bottom rails, fastened to the front, are 2x4s, arranged in such a way that I can slide three layers of 2x4s in without needing to take out any screws.... The front and back layers are 3 pieces each, vertical, and the middle layer is 4 pieces, horizontal.... which left just over 1/2" of space, into which I slid a piece of OSB.... The target clips are taped to that with duct tape....

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This means there is 5" of wood before anything can hit the steel plate.... Since all the 2x4 filler blocks are separate pieces, I can replace the center ones, which will get destroyed first, and just turn the side pieces over to put the shot sections out against the edges of the opening.... This should be a lot easier and cheaper than replacing full sheets of OSB.... I guess I'll find out soon how it works, but I'm pretty pleased with it, and I should be able to refill it with about half a 2x4 and a small piece of OSB each time, which will be really cheap to do....

Bob

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paddyfritz
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 11:03 am 
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My outdoor backstop is a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" steel set on a 45° angle.

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