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 Post subject: I Need a Better Backstop
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 4:25 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
A decade ago I built a target backstop to use when testing my airguns inside my shop, at a distance of 20 feet.... I made a wooden box large enough to accept 12" x 16" pieces of OSB or plywood.... I normally use six layers of OSB, stacked to a depth of 3".... Originally, when I was dealing with low powered guns, I used old magazines, but quickly outgrew that.... Once I started getting into bullet shooting PCPs that were 100 FPE and above, I added a 3/16" steel plate to the back inside of the box, as a precaution.... With the many layers of wood in front of it, I have never had a ricochet.... Bullets impacting the steel flatten on impact, and stay within the box.... Eventually the OSB gets shot up and I have to take the box apart and replace the layers.... This has for the most part, worked great.... BTW, I have three layers of 3/4" plywood that are 32" high and 48" wide behind the box as a safety wall, in case of a miss or penetration of the box.... I feel it's been an adequate and safe setup, although I do inspect it frequently during and after use....

Yesterday I was working on my .457 Hayabusa, which is a 500 FPE gun.... When testing, I often just aim along the barrel of the gun instead of having to install and remove sights all the time, and I'm easily capable of keeping the bullets within about a 3-4" group, centered in the backstop.... Yesterday was no exception, but the OSB was getting torn up badly in the middle, and I was nearly finished shooting, so I didn't bother replacing it.... I kept checking the back of the box, and it was getting pretty big bulge, indicating that the steel plate was bending, something I have seen before.... Every once in a while, after using a particularly powerful PCP, when I strip down the box I pound the steel plate flat with a sledge hammer and reinstall it.... I figured sooner or later it would fail, which is why all the backup plywood and frequent inspections while I am shooting....

I had a few shots more I wanted to take, but I checked the backstop and found a hole in the back, and a bullet stuck in the first layer of plywood, so that was the end of shooting for the day.... When I pulled the box apart today, here is what I found.... The bulge in the steel plate is about 1" high, and you can see the bullet lodged in the plywood above the plate.... both photographed from the back…. :o

Image

Anyways, I thought I would share what the power of a modern PCP can do with repeated impacts to a 3/16" steel plate.... You can bet I'm in the process of redesigning my backstop.... First, I will change to a 1/4" steel plate, and secondly I plan to replace the wood with either two layers if 2x4s, one layer in each direction.... or a layer of them on edge.... in front of the steel plate.... The plan is to have them replaceable by pulling them out a slot in the top, so that laziness is no longer an excuse for making sure there is wood in front of the steel.... Additionally, I can remove the shot up 2x4s in the middle of the box and leave the outer ones, which don't see as much damage, instead of replacing 12" x 16" sheets of OSB where the outer portions are still intact.... Once I have built the new backstop, I will post a photo in this thread....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 5:03 pm 
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Location: Montreal
A heck of a way to split wood.!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 5:29 pm 
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Don't use a cannon vs the back stop ~ [emoji38]

Sent from my LG cellphone

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HW30 Stainless Steel + Discovery 40mm Scope
HW35 Walnut + Hawke 40mm Scope
2240+14" barrel/Williams peep sight
Camo Chaser long barrel rifle kit
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 6:41 pm 
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Posts: 609
....You need an engine block , lol ...( and not aluminum ) .....I'll tell you what I discovered for less powerful (ordinary) airguns. In the dumpster where I was working I found 4 rolls of new but outdated 1 1/2" fire hose ( 200')....This stuff is super tough like it's kevlar wrapped or something....Anyway, I couldn't just leave it there and salvaged it for drainage.....Well, I was rebuilding my pellet trap and decided to hang 5 overlapping 16" lengths on both edges of a 1x4 and secure it into my trap , which has a heavy steel plate at the back ... I use pal rated airguns ( among others) and am amazed how this 'firehose curtain' holds up... It hasn't even frayed yet, which I attribute to it's tough skin plus the strips are oval shaped and hanging, so as to absorb any impact without damage.....The inner 'curtain' hasn't even been touched ......So, if you can get your hands on some lengths of fire hose, the wider the better, ....I highly recommend it for pellet trap use ( for 'normal' pellet guns....can't say about BBs )...........


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 1:24 am 
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Posts: 2474
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Vinyl backed carpet is working very well for me. It holds together much longer than plywood.
I'm currently at 8 layers inside a cardboard box, and a JSB heavy at 18.1 gr and 875 fps will not make it through 4 layers.

I find I don't have to check and replace carpet layers all that often. When I was using plywood I was rebuilding the trap 9 or 10 times a year. Down to about 2 or 3 times a year now with the vinyl backed carpet, and I'm shooting just as much, if not more.

I will open it up after a high intensity prolonged session just to make sure I'm not passing through the 6th layer. When it gets that far, I rebuild. At least I'm not dealing with splinters, or duct seal/pellet mess.

The bonus is that the trap is far quieter than plywood.

-D.S.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 2:06 am 
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Location: Somewheres near the Atlantic
I would go with 3/8 " AR500.. You'll never need to replace it again. Unless your shooting 3000 FPS or more. It would cost you around 54$ for a 12" square, 4$ more then 1/4". So if it's only 4$ why not go slightly thicker?



I personally use these for my PBs and airgun.

http://www.steeltargets.ca/Gongs.html


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 12:06 pm 
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Bob just put your 3/16" steel plate behind some bars of duct seal
I doubt it will even reach your steel plate.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:33 pm 
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The Duct Seal is pretty pricey, and I'm not so sure it will stand up to 500 FPE.... Have you ever tried that?....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:46 pm 
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rsterne wrote:
The Duct Seal is pretty pricey, and I'm not so sure it will stand up to 500 FPE.... Have you ever tried that?....Bob

pricey---only about $6 for two bars and it lasts for ever
i'm thinking you'll need about 12 total...depending on the size of your trap
no i cant say iv'e tried 500 FPE...but i'm pretty sure it will handle it, duct seal absorbs a lot of energy and i also
said to place it in front of your plate and i doubt it will reach the plate, it would make an interesting experiment
to see if it would pass the duct seal Bob.... :wink:

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Last edited by Ace on Sun Dec 16, 2018 5:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 4:58 pm 
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Location: GTA, ON
I can't imagine how 500 FPE will look like ...

But I doubt one layer of duct seal can handle it... My sub 500 fps limit guns just about 1/100 of the power and can eat into the duct seal for about 1/4 inch, and a bar is about an inch thick?! Looks not an eady job for it ~

But I highly suggest Bob to do this experiment to show us the limits of the duct seal ~ :D

Sent from my LG cellphone

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Izzy 46M
HW30 Stainless Steel + Discovery 40mm Scope
HW35 Walnut + Hawke 40mm Scope
2240+14" barrel/Williams peep sight
Camo Chaser long barrel rifle kit
P3+2x20 Kit Scope
HW40+Extender
HW45+Grip panels from Russia
P1322 with walnut forearm


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 5:05 pm 
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little confused here Bob so is your .457 Hayabusa, which is 500 FPE... making 344 Joules :shock: ...?
correct me if i'm wrong but according to the calculator your should be 253 FPE..?
my Talon makes 80FPE and duct seal works fine...would like to see what yours will do to
duct seal...very curious 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 5:37 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
I have no idea where you got 344 Joules from.... It is 500 FPE, which is 678 joules.... It peaked with this valve at 529 FPE = 716 joules....

My trap inside is 10.5" x 13" (1" larger all around than 8.5 x 11 paper)…. Duct Seal is roughly 2" x 6.5" x 1" thick.... so for 2 layers I would need at least 20 bars, which is about $75 inc. tax, last time I looked.... That's pretty pricey for something I don't know if it will work for a whole shooting session.... not to mention I would have to clean all the lead out of it when necessary.... With the wood, all I do is toss it away, cut up another cheap 2x4, and I'm back in business.... Even if it withstood a 500 FPE hit, would it take 5 in a row in virtually the same spot?.... I think I'll let somebody else pay to play.... :roll:

Bob

_________________
Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 6:23 pm 
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Location: Bowmanville, Ontario
Where are you buying your duct seal? I get duct seal from my electrical wholesaler for about $1.40 a lbs

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:18 pm 
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It's 4.29$/bar, weighted 1lbs here in Lowes....

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HW30 Stainless Steel + Discovery 40mm Scope
HW35 Walnut + Hawke 40mm Scope
2240+14" barrel/Williams peep sight
Camo Chaser long barrel rifle kit
P3+2x20 Kit Scope
HW40+Extender
HW45+Grip panels from Russia
P1322 with walnut forearm


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:24 pm 
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Carpenter84 wrote:
Where are you buying your duct seal? I get duct seal from my electrical wholesaler for about $1.40 a lbs

just as YepYep said got mine at Lowes as well, except I got two bars in one packet for about $6 this was
a very good while ago still stopping pellets like a champ... 8)
and supper quiet no ping's or ding's unless that's what you like to hear

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