Canadian Airgun Forum

I went to Kent and got some 3 and 4" hinges. Were under 5$ each. Screwed them onto a piece of alum I had. Then used bolts and washers to make various size targets. Everything is easily replaceable. Ive only been using sub 500 FPS. With mild dome pellets. So they are not doing much damage to the hinge or washer.

Originally had it just clamp onto. But found it stuck out a bit and was getting some deflection. So I added magnets on the back so I can stick it on the trap lower.

So when I want to shoot paper. I just pull it off and place a target on, And vise versa.

Painted it back to blend into the trap. Targets white so all I see is 3 white targets.

That looks like a good idea.

I want to ask, what happens when the pellets or bbs hit the targets? I guess since they are hinges the targets swing back and the projectiles continue and hit the back of the trap?

When I was looking at pellet traps I kept seeing warnings to not shoot steel bbs at hard metal targets because of the risk of ricochet.

I made a make shift reactive target myself, but it's far more quick and dirty than yours, it's just a can with a hole in it, loosely tied around a small screw on the top front of my trap with some string. It moves when it's hit so I know when I hit it. Works with both pellets and bbs, but of course it's just a flattened pop can, so it's not really hard.

Have you tried shooting bbs at yours?

That's the theory. But it's not 100%. I just don't like cleaning up shredded paper/cardboard, jeans or doing maintenance.

I don't shoot BB's much. After my Drozd. I got tired of cleaning up shredded paper and BB's. Did just take some pop shots with my Daisy Buck, and 20% of the time, I had a BB come back.

Looks good.

Little flaw.

The hinges are heavy and hard enough. To cause the pellets to mushroom/flatten or shatter on impact. That they are not really deflecting into the trap. Just bouncing forward or dropping below.

Sounds like I'm going to need to free hang washers. I got some industrial thread that will cut your hands before you can break it.

I'm confused about something, though I think I'm probably correct.

The reason people design traps that collect pellets is to make it easier to dispose of them, not to re use already shot pellets?

Correct.

After hitting metal or hard object, they will be deformed. I even noticed slight deformities when I shot into a pair of jeans.

Al right,

As far as the hinges go, that was something I originally thought when I saw your targets, "are the hinges loose enough?".

From my experience with door hinges, they take some force to move - minimal force of course, but still some force. I guess the impact of being hit by a projectile should provide enough force to move them, but the question is how far?

It sounds like you do need them to be hanging a little looser to stop the pellets being deformed and bouncing down, instead of continuing into the trap.

I'd be interested in seeing how you solve this issue, as I may just copy your idea for more permanent reactive targets.

They are lose.. Takes no effort to move them, and don't feel any resistance. I just think its the gauge of the steel and mass of the nuts/bolts/washer. With the low FPS. Is enough to absorbed the energy. And they just drop or bounce back.

What I'll need is less mass.

Well the pellets are going to deform. Lead is softer than steel.

I have a permanent reactive target outside. It's in a bunker I made, around 34M. At the end of this tilled unused garden. Summer time it gets over grown and nearly hidden by passer bys. Normally when I shoot paper, I just haul out the trap I keep in the garage. Not like I really need it. More do it to show I'm being responsible. But never know might hit a rock.

56M or so there is a Tree.. I might see if I can get a 4-5" gong and stick it off the side. By that distance and if it hits, shouldn't have much energy to do any damage.

NICE