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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 6:28 pm 
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Location: Eastern Townships
Don't have much free time these days, today however I did, so I wanted to try my new compressor. I put the pump in a bucket of water and plugged it, closed the valves and put the test plug on the output hose. I then plugged the compressor in the wall outlet, the water pump is working well, so I turned the main switch on, but all I got was a series of ''click, click''. Hmm, not good. This reminded me of something I saw a while ago, so I pulled the cover off and saw what could well be the culprit: these kind of motor need a device to help them to start, I don't know the exact name in english, let's call it a starter or condenser, well on the starter it's clearly printed ''250V'', so not the right one I guess... :(

I'm not an electrician though, so if someone can confirm that it definitely can't work, please chime in. Also, would it be necessary to re-wire the motor, or do anything else to make the motor run? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

If this post is innapropriate in this forum, please move it mods.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 7:11 pm 
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Looks to be what's called a "start capacitor". Like all capacitors, they act as a kind of battery. The big difference is that once they are charged up, they release the stored energy all at once.
In this case, it gives the motor an extra jolt of electricity to start the motor turning.
Once charged, these will cause a MAJOR shock to you if not handled properly-be careful!
Google "start (or starter) capacitor" to get some more detail on how to test one- not sure if that your problem or not, but it's quite possible...

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 8:15 pm 
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I'm also not an electrician, but have electrocuted myself a few times trying :oops:
The 250V printed on the capacitor is just a max rating for it. Suspect your motor windings are rated for North American 120V 60Hz line current. Unless you bought it directly from China and ordered a 220V unit. Anyhow, I'm a bit surprised if you have to add a starting capacitor to an out of the box unit, so I suggest looking for something else that has tripped or is preventing the motor from turning.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 9:31 pm 
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The 250V printed on the capacitor is the max rating for it. I have seen these fail early on many motors . They are relatively inexpensive .I would change it . Look for friction first and make sure it is not over tight or seized. Good luck hope you get it going .


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 10:07 pm 
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Sorry to hear of the trouble. I see on one of the forums a guy had that problem with a Yong heng and he took the fan cover off and turned the motor with a wrench on the fan bolt and it started right up after that.
I had that same clicking on one I bought when I first tried it, and my memory is a little fuzzy, but I remember making sure the bleed screws were both open and trying it again and it starting up when I tried it the second time and not having any trouble after that.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 4:58 am 
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wesb2007 wrote:
Sorry to hear of the trouble. I see on one of the forums a guy had that problem with a Yong heng and he took the fan cover off and turned the motor with a wrench on the fan bolt and it started right up after that.
I had that same clicking on one I bought when I first tried it, and my memory is a little fuzzy, but I remember making sure the bleed screws were both open and trying it again and it starting up when I tried it the second time and not having any trouble after that.


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Thanks for the help guys! Did a little search on starter capacitors, and it may not be the issue. I investigated further and found that the main switch is the problem. There's no positive ''IN/OUT'' position, the toggle is loose. It won't stay either in the ''IN'' or ''OUT'' position. I gently un-snapped it from the cover and immediately saw a broken plastic housing. I removed the toggle and saw... pulverized internal components!!! OK, don't look further! :lol: I think I have one of those switch somewhere in my ''warehouse'', just need to find it, and then try it.

Wes, I hope you don't feel too bad dear fellow! :) This is to be expected I think, sometimes it just happens 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 5:45 am 
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Oh no, yipes!
Not a good start, literally and figuratively. I'm sorry for the trouble. PM sent.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 3:32 pm 
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Well, good news! I found a correctly rated switch to replace the broken one, it even has a safety lock! Funny thing, I don't loose everything of the old switch, there were two small springs the exact same size as Crosman 13xx/22xx safety springs, you never have too much of those!

Two wires were soldered on the old switche's blade terminals, I unsoldered them and crimped good quality blade female terminals to plug on the new switch, instead of re-soldering. I had to lenghten the hole in the housing a bit, width was the same, that made a rather clean installation. Plugged all wires in the correct order, plugged the cord in the wall outlet, and put the switch to the ''ON'' position. Immediate start, with no hesitation :)

I stopped it after maybe a 3 second run, then setted up the waterpump and HPA filters, and did a test run with the test plug at the end of the filling hose. I runned it to 3000psi, stopped it with the switch, checked for strange smells or anything else, nothing I saw or felt. Re-started it at the 3000psi pressure and it again started with no hesitations, up to the max 4500psi pressure limit. Very satisfied with this first test :)

I'll start a thread in the review forum on the setup and first fill. Oh and I'll also soon start a thread in the mods and repair forum on the conversion of a Crosman 1077 CO2 rifle to HPA. I've tethered the rifle to a 850psi-regulated 48ci bottle using the adapter I made, so far no leaks at all, and after dry firing with no pellets 5 or 6 shots, still no leaks.

Enough said for now, issue solved :) 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 4:57 pm 
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Wow, good job! Glad you got it going! I should have a spare one for you soon =)

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