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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:19 pm 
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Location: Eastern Townships, P.Q.
I recently acquired a pristine Crosman 1100 Trapmaster. It came with a Lee 2-cavities aluminum lead ball mold #90420, which makes 0.375'' balls. I know how to melt lead and I have what I need to do that, but I need advice on how to use the mold. I heard one need to lubricate the sprue plate, with what? Do I need to apply lubricant to the cavities as well? Also, I know I have to preheat the mold, how and what temperature? I'm a total newbie at this, all suggestions and advices are welcome!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:17 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
The best sprue plate lube is synthetic 2-cycle oil.... applied sparingly with a Q-tip.... You do not want any lube in the cavities.... but for initial casting sessions you can "smoke" them with a lighter to coat them lightly with soot.... The sprue plate should be adjusted so that it won't fall open under its own weight, but will open with a "flick" of the mould, or with light hand pressure.... Heating with a hotplate to about 400*F will speed up the mould coming up to temperature, you won't have to throw as many balls back into the pot.... The correct "casting tempo" and lead temperature (try around 750-800*F) will maintain the correct mould temperature.... If you are getting wrinkles, it is too cold, and if the balls are frosted, too hot....

Bob

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 12:50 pm 
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I now spray all my moulds, whether brass, aluminum or cast iron, with moly bullet coating from a Spray can- either MS Moly or Lyman brand. Both work well.
The moly spray works similarly to a soot coating, but is not easily wiped off, stays longer and prevents lead from sticking, smearing onto the mould blocks.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:51 pm 
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rsterne wrote:
The best sprue plate lube is synthetic 2-cycle oil.... applied sparingly with a Q-tip.... You do not want any lube in the cavities.... but for initial casting sessions you can "smoke" them with a lighter to coat them lightly with soot.... The sprue plate should be adjusted so that it won't fall open under its own weight, but will open with a "flick" of the mould, or with light hand pressure.... Heating with a hotplate to about 400*F will speed up the mould coming up to temperature, you won't have to throw as many balls back into the pot.... The correct "casting tempo" and lead temperature (try around 750-800*F) will maintain the correct mould temperature.... If you are getting wrinkles, it is too cold, and if the balls are frosted, too hot....

Bob


Thanks a lot Bob, very appreciated :) . I no longer had spent pellets, gave them away, so I ordered some pure lead bars from this place: https://www.westernmetal.ca/shooting-ca ... ure-metals

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 4:53 pm 
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Daryl wrote:
I now spray all my moulds, whether brass, aluminum or cast iron, with moly bullet coating from a Spray can- either MS Moly or Lyman brand. Both work well.
The moly spray works similarly to a soot coating, but is not easily wiped off, stays longer and prevents lead from sticking, smearing onto the mould blocks.


Thanks for that Daryl :) . Where do you get this product, by any chance would you have a link to share?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:32 am 
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Location: Eastern Townships, P.Q.
Yesterday I received some goodies from Western Metal and Higginson Powders. I got a new Lee 2-cavities .380'' 82 grains lead ball mold, 5 boxes of Hornady .375'' 80 grains lead balls, 20 lb of pure lead, and a 20 lb bag of each: #4, #6 and #8 graphite-coated lead shots. I'll start casting real soon!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:46 pm 
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You've got enough shot for a while, balls too.
When casting, I wear heavy lined work gloves for opening and closing the sprue-plate.
Lots of guys use a mallet or hammer handle for bashing it open - I used to and stopped doing that
when I bent a Lee sprue plate as they are thinner than those Lyman or RCBS parts.
I do have an old small ball-peen hammer handle handy for tapping the handle hinge if a ball or bullet
does not want to drop out on it's own. Tap, tap - and out it comes. Been using the same one for that
since about 1977.
I use Lee 20 pound pots for both my alloyed and pure lead - one pot for each alloy. There is no reason
for this, other than I cast bullets for various PB rifles and handguns using alloyed lead, along with round
balls for my muzzle loaders, using pure lead only - thus, 2 pots makes it easier.
I do not bottom pour as I get more precise large diameter round balls for my 14 gauge rifle and the heavier
bullets for my PB rifles, .308 to .50 cal. I also have moulds & have cast for my 6mm and .22 PB's.


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Artemis PP700S-A Reg. .22
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