Canadian Airgun Forum

So I have a huge dilemma. Where I live mostly open field and there is alot of cross wind. It's windy almost every day. Wind changes direction, and speed alot. Kinda discourages me shooting.

Short of putting a 60M wall to block wind, what can I do to cut thru the wind more straight using 177? Faster FPS and heavier dome pellets? or go with .22?

Sounds perfect...why would you change anything?
The hardest part of shooting is being able to judge the wind as it affects the pellet so much.
The best shooters I've seen are the ones that are able to correctly judge the wind and make the correct adjustments on their POI.

Well Its hard to zero with a ever changing wind. Because if I shoot from my porch to 20M I got a fence/garage and tree that blocks the wind. But anything after is a open field. That's where it gets hard. I stopped shooting off my enclosed porch since I can push the pellet impact further out, to be safer. Plus the fence really put a damper on things. I couldn't put the gate inline with center of my property, So the line of sight would be close to the neighbor. All about being respectful and such.

This is going to be the new range area. That little random tree used to be where my spinners are at 34M, but the fence ruined it. Plus the edge of a overgrown garden. But the problem now I face is the wind.

While fundamentally true sometimes conditions are beyond predicable resulting in a frustrating session.

Leadslinger, I think you already know the answer. More kinetic energy with better ballistic coefficiency. 22 being better than 177 at similar velocity and diablo being than wadcutter. Maybe try H&N trophies or the piledrivers.

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I have some airguns.

It's ALL about the ballistic coefficient and velocity.

A .22 OR even .25 pellet (or any calibre bullet) having exactly the same B.C. and Velocity as a 'test case' .177 Pellet will all have identical drop and wind drift.

The reduce the drift and drop, one must increase the velocity or BC. Sectional Density has nothing to do with the drop and drift- it's all about Ballistic Coefficient and Velocity combined.

At some point, a higher BC will still shoot flatter and with lest drift than a lower BC but higher velocity.

Chair Gun and other ballistic programs can help you out.

I like this one for my RF's and CF's.

It has worked well for me right to 1000 meters.

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/balli ... ate+Chart+

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Best Wishes
Daryl

Yeah like he says. It gets frustrating. Way my property is laid out. I got wind coming in different direction. Till about 18M its fine, but after that, its just a guessing game.

I picked up a QB 88 in 22 cal. I know not the most power house gun. But 22 should see less effected, and giving spring airguns an another chance.

If you're plinking or shooting paper then wind flags are the answer. It will still be difficult but if you make it a challenge to master it will be quite rewarding.
You need at least one flag, although most long benchrest shooters use three. My old brain can only monitor one but if you are younger then the more the better.
Another challenge you'll have is learning to shoot with one eye on the flags and the other through your scope.
Good Luck,
Ed.

It's challenging and annoying. The wind here never seems to be steady, it changes every couple seconds. Also my lay out had different funnel points for the wind. Like I shoot indoors, to outside. So the muzzle has zero wind. 16ft opening on the right, then my garage. But on the left is a 60ft, 5ft high fence, and a big tree. So about 21M it turns into a open field.

So I will shoot, notice, make corrections and it would be totally different POI. I normally watch the leaves on the trees, or the blades of grass.

I haven't moved anything to behind the garage. I'm planning on putting a shed back there, that I may put in a shooting area.

We also have switching, changing winds here. If you set up flags every 10 yards, it is common to see 5 different wind directions at any one time. This makes it very difficult
to test loads. Not quite so bad on the small bore (up to .22LR no .17HMR) range, but there the swirling winds can drive you to drinking.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

I would say you should leave your elevation as is,
but lower your windage.

Velocity and BC are both important, but you may be surprised to learn that higher velocities may NOT help your situation.... For shooting an airgun at moderate ranges, a muzzle velocity of about 800-850 fps, combined with the best BC you can get, will give you the least wind drift....



Increasing the velocity above 850 fps will actually INCREASE the wind drift.... If your .177 can shoot JSB 10.4 gr. Exact Heavies at around 800 fps, you will probably find that better than a lighter pellet at over 900 fps.... Additonally, the wind closer to the muzzle has MORE effect on the wind drift than the wind downrange.... Here is a typical chart you see for wind drift....



Here is the same wind velocity, but with the wind present only to 25 yards, and then no wind further downrange....



Add in a reverse wind from 75 to 100 yards, and you get this....



Anyways, you get the idea.... Limit the velocity to less than 900 fps, use the best BC pellet that will shoot accurately in your gun, and if you can shelter the range from 0-25 yards, that will offer the best protection.... Additionally, a shifting wind that is basically behind you or in your face causes much greater side to side shift in the POI (as the wind shifts from 11 to 1 o'clock or 5 to 7 o'clock)…. than a sidewind that is shifting the same amount (2 to 4 o'clock or 8 to 10 o'clock)….

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal; Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!