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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 8:51 pm 
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Location: Eastern Townships
I really felt the need to improve the feel and trigger pull weight on this new rifle, soooo, so much for the warranty, it's getting stripped.

First and most important, safety, de-gas if necessary and remove the CO2 cartridges. Lay the butt plate aside and have a look inside the stock, you'll see two Phillips head screws - picture 1. Remove them, and pull the plastic filler piece out - picture 2. If you look inside the stock again, you see space that could be filled with the material of your choice - picture 3.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:02 pm 
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Next step is to remove the pin in the stock (I used a 2 mm mini pin punch), over and toward the rear of the trigger guard - picture 4. This pin is splined on one end and the splines must get out first, the pin on my rifle got out on the left side - picture 5. Next you remove another Phillips head screw, just in front of the mag well - picture 6.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:22 pm 
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Now you can remove the barrel band. Unscrew and remove the Allen head bolt, the nut can stay in place - picture 7. Stretch the barrel band over the stock and barrel, it's easy as it's made from plastic, but don't overstretch. Note that there are small locking grooves and protrusions - picture 8. You're ready to remove the action from the stock. Gently lift barrel up while pulling toward the front of the rifle, be careful as the cartrige tube is getting slid out of the stock - picture 9.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:31 pm 
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Continue to gently pull the action until it's completely out of the stock - picture 10. Here is a detail of the left side of the action. You see a screw circled in red, DON'T REMOVE THAT SCREW. It's not a screw, it's a plug for the piercing cap assembly gas passage - picture 11. Next you need to remove the pin circled in green in the rear of the upper receiver - picture 12.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:44 pm 
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This pin is also splined, again splines out first, it got out on the right side of the receiver - picture 13. Next remove the barrel clamping piece (for lack of a better term), just in front of the mag well, again Phillips head screws. You should now be able to remove the upper receiver/barrel ''shroud'' assembly - picture 14. Then unscrew the small grub screw underneath the muzzle (picture 15), and gently pull on the barrel plastic end piece, the barrel itself may or may not stay with it.


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Last edited by airmec on Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:55 pm 
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When removing the plastic barrel end piece, it unlocks the front sight. Lift it out to remove it - picture 16. View of the action, barrel and underside of the receiver - picture 17a. View of the action, barrel and top side of the receiver - picture 17b.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:01 pm 
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Some more details: In picture 17c, you see how the rear sight is secured in place. In picture 17d, you see the barrel crown, which is actually not a crown, but a very light taper much like a barrel leade. I think I'll re-do a true crowning job, just for the peace of mind. More tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 5:14 pm 
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Next step is to remove the so-called bolt. It's actually a sliding piece that actuate, or cock the hammer. First remove the small Phillips head screw you see in picture 18. (In the picture you see the upper receiver still on because it's the only good pic I have of the screw). Then gently lift the sliding piece up while covering the bolt with fingers from your other hand, so the lightly preloaded spring doesn't get airborne - picture 19. In picture 20 you can see that the bolt handle is pinned to the sliding piece, and it looks like there's hope the pin can be removed in a non-destructive way. A custom bolt handle could be nice, something in brass to go with the front sight bead maybe.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 5:27 pm 
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Then the safety, easy peasy job. Start by removing the small screw you see in picture 21, then gently pull the safety parts out, as seen in picture 22. You can see in picture 23 there are flats on the parts, just a note for re-assembly. After removing the parts, push the safety in so it's centered in the trigger guard, this is necessary for trigger guard removal.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 5:37 pm 
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You can then ''un-snap'' the trigger guard - picture 24, and you're left with the bare action casing. You then need to remove six screws to open the casing - picture 25a. BTW look at these spring pockets, positionned just right to hold springs that will make the mag ''pop'' out when unlatched. A closer view in picture 25b.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 5:49 pm 
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A view of the mag in the installed position in relation with the spring pockets in picture 25c. In picture 25d you see correct diameter springs installed (much too long of course), these are from a Bic lighter. This is a small mod I'll try, see if it cause mis-alignment/jamming, if not it could be nice to have some ''help'' getting the mag out when you push the release lever.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:03 pm 
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So after removing the last six screws, you'll be able to open the action. Lay it on its left side, then lightly grab the right side half and pull up gently and evenly - there's nothing spring loaded that will fly out, see picture 26a. You can remove the part pointed by a green arrow now. In picture 26b you see a close-up of the trigger/hammer mechanism, note the trigger spring, this is one heavy spring, and something to improve. First part to remove is the bent piece that push on the mag to rotate the clip, just lift it out - picture 27.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:07 pm 
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Then remove the hammer - 28, the trigger with its spring - 29, and the small lever - 30.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:33 pm 
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Now you're left with the piercing cap assembly, the transfer brass tube and the valve - picture 31. In picture 32 you see another screw THAT YOU SHOULD NOT REMOVE, it's another plug sealing a gas passage. Lift the entire assembly (piercing cap/brass tube/valve) out, you may need to wiggle it somewhat to remove it - picture 33.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:47 pm 
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In picture 34 you see a close-up of the valve, it's about the size of a 13xx valve. I didn't open it, don't wanna mess with something that works well. In picture 35 you see the separated parts, you just need to pull them apart. In picture 36 you see the method used for de-tuning this rifle: it's a tiny metering port, much like a carburator jet for those who know what it is :wink: , installed into the transfer brass tube at the valve port.

This is as far as I got into the disassembly of this rifle, hope it'll be of some help to a few.


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