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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2020 8:52 am 
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Pretty sure I can figure it out, but thought I would ask first. I was able to get a great deal on an underlever from D&L's used website, but pellets go in super tight and the skirt gets cut off. I need to pull the barrel to open it up a little. Is there a set screw somewhere or do these unscrew? Thanks for any help.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2020 9:24 am 
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My guess would be the barrel is pressed into the receiver block and won't come out easy. You may have to tackle the breach from the loading port or through the spring chamber with a very long "tool". Anyhow, I found this very (very) old thread on an very (very) old forum and there are a couple tear down and tuning documents in from Under500fps (our late dear Rene) in the second post. Hope you find it useful and get your B3 up and running!
http://www.airgunhome.com/agforum/viewtopic.php?p=5985
:drinkers:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 12:22 am 
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great response.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 8:23 am 
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Thanks, I found the .doc files from Charlie and I'll be going over those this weekend. I hope it's not pressed in, looking to avoid a complete teardown right now but if I have to I have to. It's nearly useless with the pellets not fitting lol.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 11:33 am 
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If you have a Dremel, use a ball end bit. You should be able to get one the size needed to flare the port without removing the barrel.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 11:47 am 
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notec wrote:
If you have a Dremel, use a ball end bit. You should be able to get one the size needed to flare the port without removing the barrel.


I would use a small wood dowel, with some say 600 grit paper taped to it. And go at it from the back of the compression tube with the pistol removed. Or might be able to roll it up and stick it in, and roll it with your fingers. It would also polish it.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 2:43 pm 
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Hm. Here I was trying to figure out how to get a cone shaped stone in there and didn't even think of the ball shaped one. This might work, I forgot to say the heads are tight too so I need some depth, but the right sized ball might just get in there far enough. Nice.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2020 3:15 pm 
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How many different types and sizes of pellets have you tried? Just going in there with a ball-end grinder might not be the best option.
There are many different sized pellets available.
Could be the barrel was swaged into the action block which ended up swaging the chamber smaller, but that seems a bit far fetched.
Before I "went in there with a stone or sand paper on s stick" I would be trying smaller diameter pellets. Using oversized pellets (for the
rifle's bore) might not be a good idea in itself. I do understand that with the pellets you have tried, it is a no-go at this time.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:46 am 
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I've already been through that process, nothing fully seats in there. The closest that comes to fitting is RWS, but even they don't go all the way. The Daisy's that I typically use in these don't even come close. No matter what brand they all need to be forced in with a tool to get them to seat far enough.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 9:57 am 
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If you have a .177cal cleaning rod, you could try slowly pushing a pellet from muzzle to breech. This would tell you if only the breech end is constricted. Push the pellet slowly so you can feel any tight spots. I had a Crosman Optimus that had a tight spot at the breech end. I carefully sanded it out with fine sandpaper and a pair of bamboo skewer sticks joined together. The sandpaper is taped to the "bamboo rod" and then wrapped around to get the right tightness. This barrel actually had a couple of tight spots. The rifle shoots quite well now but is a bit pellet finicky.

If your entire barrel is tight, then maybe gets some 4.48mm pellets to try. Thin skirts like JSBs might be easier to seat.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 11:42 am 
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Nice, so you went from the barrel end? That could work. There is enough room in the breech to put the sandpaper into the sticks once the are up there.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 12:24 pm 
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cdnairgunner wrote:
Nice, so you went from the barrel end? That could work. There is enough room in the breech to put the sandpaper into the sticks once the are up there.


Personally I would remove the spring and piston, and go from the rear. Because you will need to clean up after you grind, or sand.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 12:53 pm 
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I would normally do that too, and have every time in the past I have done stuff like this, but in this case I'll be bringing out the brake cleaner. Full teardown isn't in the cards until the break in is over.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 12:59 pm 
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No need for disassembly. Painters tape on the breach seal will keep any sandings from entering the compression tube. Please make sure to secure the cocking lever while working on it. People have lost finger tips not doing this. You can even use a small block of wood to hold the loading port open for safety. If you need any help I can walk you through the repairs.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 1:20 pm 
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cdnairgunner wrote:
Nice, so you went from the barrel end? That could work. There is enough room in the breech to put the sandpaper into the sticks once the are up there.


Since the Garand/M14 does not have access to the breach from the back (the action is closed off at the back), a specialty chambering reamer was made that requires a long threaded rod that is put through the bore and threaded into the front of the reamer. The reamer is then driven by rotating the rod at the muzzle end while pulling it into the chamber. It's all bass ackwards, but it works like a charm. You could use the same principle with emery cloth and a slotted cleaning rod to open up the breech opening.

I have a B3 in .177 that had a burr around the outside edge of the chamber that made seating pellets difficult. It didn't do much for accuracy either. I used a cone shaped dremel stone and turned it by hand with my fingers. It wasn't fast, but it worked.

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