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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:55 pm 
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Location: Guelph, Ontario
Received a 1974 FWB300S from a nice guy. It works great but the stock had many minor dings and scratches. Saw my friend YepYep refinished his FWB300SU with great results, I decided to give it a try today.
I sanded down the original finish with 80 grid sandpaper, then 220 grid, then 320 grid finally 400 grid.
Then the stifling in the grip area was coating with black stain. Finally, two coats of Antique Oil were applied then rubbed dry. Here is the result, I am quite pleased.
ImageImageImageImage

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Last edited by tom_ke888 on Sun Jan 03, 2021 11:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 11:05 pm 
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Nice work Tom


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 11:13 pm 
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pistolero wrote:
Nice work Tom
Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:11 am 
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[emoji38] nice~

Myself are learning from mistakes (of course absorbed lots of good advice from the gentlemen here in the forum~)~ hopes I am not walking on the wrong track~ :drinkers:

Don't know why yours looks has darker color than mine after applying oil on it... Image

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~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 7:53 am 
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YepYep wrote:
[emoji38] nice~

Myself are learning from mistakes (of course absorbed lots of good advice from the gentlemen here in the forum~)~ hopes I am not walking on the wrong track~ :drinkers:

Don't know why yours looks has darker color than mine after applying oil on it... Image
I think yours would be more water repelling than mine. That shiny stuff must be varnish. As for colour, I used minwax Antique Oil, I think you used Tung Oil.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 10:32 am 
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good job that FWB300S looks very nice.... 8) :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 11:40 am 
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Light skin or dark skin they are both beautiful!
I am inspired to take on my newest wood stock, maybe freshen it up a little or a lot.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 12:14 pm 
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Dukemeister wrote:
Light skin or dark skin they are both beautiful!
I am inspired to take on my newest wood stock, maybe freshen it up a little or a lot.
A little, a little.... And then you want a full service at the end~ [emoji38]

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 12:24 pm 
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Ace wrote:
good job that FWB300S looks very nice.... 8) :wink:
Thank you

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 12:28 pm 
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Dukemeister wrote:
Light skin or dark skin they are both beautiful!
I am inspired to take on my newest wood stock, maybe freshen it up a little or a lot.
I have seen your work, That Optimus was just a beauty.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 2:43 pm 
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They both looks great, however I do favour more than 2 coats of oil. After allowing each coat to harden fully, usually 24 to 48 hours will do,
then another and another thin coat, then if wanting the grain filled, sand with 1500grit wet/dry (dry) "just' down to the wood's surface, then
if it needs more coats to fill the grain, do it, then when all the pores are filled. 3 VERY thin coats and it's done - like a grande piano.
Otherwise, a simple 4 to 6 THIN coats and it's done and quite well sealed. 2 coats of oil will not seal the stock, imho. As well, for a gun that is used a
bunch, your hands will wear the finish off the wrist and forend if the finish is too thin. imho

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:34 pm 
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I am still working on my PS stock... However it's likely in a 'fine tuning' process as I check it every day under the bright light, and turn around the stock slowly at every direction and try to find out if at any spot that the light reflection were not flowing evenly and smoothly, I rub another thin coat of pure tung oil or Minwax tung oil with varnish or the mixture of these two stuff I have in the house on that or a few spots, then put it back to the table vise to let it dry and repeat it the next day...

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~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe


Last edited by YepYep on Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:41 pm 
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To my experience so far, sometimes sanding is necessary (to be honest, I don't trust the striper and the ironing method very much...), and sometimes varnish is necessary too because it can form a nice protection layer on the wood surface which is purely water resistant. And how to control the shiny glossy piano like reflection surface result will be another question.

Just my two cents from a self-learning student to refinish stocks....

_________________
~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 3:57 pm 
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I do light fine grit wet sanding in between coats makes a nicer finish in my experience, you need to have a lot of patience.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 7:22 pm 
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Just sanded down the slight roughness with 800 grit sandpaper then another thin coat of Antique Oil. I guess this will be an ongoing process. I can see myself adding coats from time to time for better durability.Image

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AirArms S400F
Diana Outlaw
Feinwerkbau 300S
FX Dreamline Classic
Weihrauch HW100KT FSB
Weihrauch HW97KT
Weihrauch HW50S
Artemis M16
Artemis PP700
Weihrauch HW40
Beeman P17
Stoeger XP4


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