Canadian Airgun Forum

Looking to buy a LW barrel for my 110. I see the barrels come as blanks. How or were would you get them threaded for your gun?

Before I got a lathe I had to go to a machinist. It can get expensive. If you have a lathe or know a guy, you can use that for threading. I have tried threading dies and failed. Never cuts perfectly straight

like how much?

It depends on the shop. I hear the going rate is $100-$150 an hour at a 1 hour minimum. If i were you I'd call around. Might get lucky and find a place that will do half hour minimum.

Turning down and threading a barrel is easily under an hour I'd imagine. I've gone this route before and I was happy with the results.

Turning down and threading a barrel is actually a simple job, particularly if fitting to a receiver and head spacing isn't required. The hard part is single point threading, which Is essential for concentricity with the centerline of the bore. It's not that hard to learn. Just don't try to carry on a conversation while you're doing it.
You might want to try and ask around at the range you shoot at. Someone might know a guy like me with a lathe that would do it for you for a minimal fee. I have done many for free. I just fitted and Headspaced (for free) a .45acp barrel on a Lee Enfield No. 1 MkIII for a shooting friend. About 1 hour (the barrel came threaded) plus another hour's worth of coffee swilling and bs'ing. Worth every penny...
If you lived in Thunder Bay, I'd do it for free.

_________________
Theory is when you know how something works, but it doesn't.
Practice is when something works, but you don't know why.
In my shop, Theory and Practice are combined!
Nothing works and I don't know why.

Two lathes and too many projects

45 ACP in an Enfield, now that's not something you run into every day. Did it feed from a magazine?

Yes. During WWII, there was a carbine built on a shortened Lee Enfield action with an integral silencer. It was called the De Lisle. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Lisle_carbine
This kit has a heavy barrel, (obviously not suppressed), an easy method of head spacing (no lathe work required), and a magazine assembly that uses 1911 mags. The kit uses a full length No. 1 MkIII or No. 4 MkI Lee Enfield action, so no need to cut and shorten the action.
The hardest part was cutting the extractor relief on the barrel face after grinding the extractor to grip the smaller case head. Removing the old barrel wasn't easy either. Sometimes they come off easy. Not this one.
It feeds and ejects flawlessly. Its a real fun gun. How many .45acp bolt action magazine fed repeaters have you seen for sale? I haven't seen any either.
After installing the kit, the pull is strong to make my own...
Kits cost about $450 CAN. He ordered his from Germany. Our LGS has a Canadian supplier of the same kit.

If you cast and handload, a rifle that shoots pistol ammo makes a fun rifle. I have a single shot .38 special I built on a Stevens #44 action. I call it the "Mini Quigley". Kids love it. It has recoil that is only slightly more than a .22LR, and Lyman micrometer sights. I have 2000+ rounds of .38 special loaded with my cast bullets. A box of 50 lasts a long time plinking tin cans. I don't even own a .38 wheel gun anymore.

_________________
Theory is when you know how something works, but it doesn't.
Practice is when something works, but you don't know why.
In my shop, Theory and Practice are combined!
Nothing works and I don't know why.

Two lathes and too many projects

Here's a photo of the completed rifle.
It really doesn't need a brake, but I built one for him 'cuz it looks cool.

_________________
Theory is when you know how something works, but it doesn't.
Practice is when something works, but you don't know why.
In my shop, Theory and Practice are combined!
Nothing works and I don't know why.

Two lathes and too many projects

That sounds like a hell of a lot of fun. Love falling blocks.

That .45 Enfield is pretty cool too...nice work.

Al

nice rifle...love old ww2 stuff. what caliber is the Enfield regularly? what machine do you use to make threads is it a lathe so I know who and what to look for. there's no adapt or anything just a blank barrel threaded to fit my HW 110.

and thanks for the offer but I live near ottawa.

Lee Enfields are .303 British....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal; Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!

Love my Lee Enfield jungle carbine.
Watch 1917 to see some enfields in action

Yep. A lathe with a threading tool. You'll be better off if you can supply the receiver along with the blank so the guy doing the work can fit it properly.

The Short Magazine Lee Enfield is commonly chambered for .303 British, a rimmed cartridge, the case head of which is larger than the diameter of the case head of a .45acp. This necessitates modifying the extractor. A dremel and a steady hand is needed.
The barrel in this kit came pre-threaded and used a stop ring to allow the gunsmith to headspace the barrel in the same method as Savage headspaces the 110 series rifles. No lathe work is necessary. I did need to use my lathe on this job, however, to remove the original barrel. It just would not budge with an action wrench and a barrel vice. Many of them don't. I chucked up the barrelled action and made a relief cut just ahead of the action face. I also used my lathe to recrown and thread the muzzle 5/8X24. I made the brake out of 6061 Aluminum.
With regard to your barrel blank, does the diameter of the barrel need to be machined its entire length? Eg. Is it too fat?
Reducing the entire length of the barrel is a time consuming job. The thinner and longer it gets, the bigger the problems.
If it's a matter of simply threading one end, then that's an easy job. Might as well clean up the crown while you're at the lathe.
Looking at a picture of an HW110, it looks as if the barrel screws into a breech assembly. If I was doing the job, I would want to have the takeoff barrel and the breech assembly in hand to ensure a proper fit. (I would draw a sketch and measure everything first) Is there an air port machined into the barrel? If there is a port, is it slanted or perpendicular to the centerline of the bore? I don't expect you you to answer these questions, but these are the kind of questions a hobbiest like me would ask. As a hobbiest, I'm limited by my machinery, and more so by my skill level (or lack thereof).
Just saw the last post, I agree!

Edit: I forgot (my) most important question, "Is the thread metric?" If yes, I can't do it in my shop. I can, however, use my gunsmith buddy"s lathe that can cut metric threads. His lathe has what seems like a minor difference to my lathes. The threading is engaged by pulling up on the lever, and down to disengage on both my lathes. His lathe is opposite. Drives me nuts.

2nd edit: I would probably make a dummy out of aluminum first to check the fit.

_________________
Theory is when you know how something works, but it doesn't.
Practice is when something works, but you don't know why.
In my shop, Theory and Practice are combined!
Nothing works and I don't know why.

Two lathes and too many projects

Firearms go in firearm section not airgun section but nice gun

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VE7SHM//VE7ZJ

Moderator

This is about threading airgun barrels just came up as it's part of the topic since he threaded a barrel for a Lee.enfield. and was offering some knowledge and help.

And I.dont know I.think the transfer port is.in the chamber of my 110. Aparently from hw100 tunning they said my barrel is locktighted to the frame so it's going to be tricky to remove I haven't tryes to remove it yet.