Canadian Airgun Forum

I believe I have found it.
Loctite moly paste.
I may just buy a bottle and sell it at a grossly inflated price, like $15 per 1/4 oz or something

65% molybdenum disulfide.

https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/PAST ... p/LCT51048

Also found that krytox grease. Super expensive at $88 for 2oz...

LOL, go to Honda motorcycle dealership and buy some CV grease.
OEM Honda Moly Paste M-77 Assembly Paste Grease 08798-9010
Also sold online Ebay, etc.

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Iacio ergo sum

That looks like it would work too!
Seems this stuff isn't so hard to find after all. I must have been hiding under a rock or something

Ya, lubes of all kinds can be sourced economically. Don't buy the airgun branded varieties - they bump up the cost 10-100x times.
Silicone chamber oil = CT treadmill silicone oil
60% MoS2 (Moly paste) = Honda CV grease
Crosman Pellgun oil = SAE30 non detergent oil

etc,

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Iacio ergo sum

Yes I have been using the 30wt oil for most everything. A 1L bottle I had for 15 years then I lost it in a move. Easy lifetime supply. Chamber oil, I have been using RC car shock oil which is pure silicone. It seems to work alright.

Moly paste, I don't really see it as a needful thing. I bought some from maccari, years ago now. It has its uses but for metal to metal mechanical contact, grease is grease. Your spring airgun isn't doing several thousand rpms for hours or days at a time.
I'm sure to get flamed for stating this. Seen some responses from a few "pro tuners" on lubes, seem to think they're some sort of gods since they tuned 7000 guns

I picked up some synthetic grease designed for automatic weapon actions. Not sure what it is but I have been experimenting with it on different things. Works beautifully on the bolts and levers etc in my powder burners.
It's called RFG, nano synthetic rapid fire gun grease.

Well, I don't think flaming is needed or warranted, but the reason we use moly paste is that it has little or no combustibles in it, is ideally suited for high contact pressure and high temperature application. So it is the ideal grease for spring ends. Apart from that any non silicone grease is good for most metal to metal wearing and bearing in a springer action. A little is all that's needed.

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Iacio ergo sum

I bought a small white tub of Lyman Super Moly Cream a long time ago. I use it for lubing my flintlocks, as the flintlock comes off
the rifle for cleaning every time it is used. I only scrub the fouled parts with water and toothbrush, but the whole lock gets sprayed
with WD40 to blast off the water, before it's wiped and returned to the gun. The moly will stay to lube under this conditions for up to
a year or more. Once a year, I re-lube them with the moly paste - it stays put, even though sprayed with WD40. Good stuff.
It would likely work well in springers. It is very a very thick, stiff paste.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

I do agree that moly paste is some amazing stuff.
Metal to metal ie: spring ends, definitely.
It does however have a flash point, and in my limited experience it will detonate in a Springer. Probably because I had used too much.

I'm trying out delrin guides and top hats for my springers, curious to see how long it'll last. Roughly 50 shots in a magnum Springer and they look good so far. I'm using just a light gun oil on those surfaces.

Daryl, is the moly cream white? Or just the container?

Black and messy, especially on your fingers.
Quite stiff, actually. The lid cracked, so I taped it up, but with the air (lid not tight), maybe why it's stiff as in drying out over the last 4 years?
The container is white.

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Best Wishes
Daryl

Make your own!

Really, better and cheaper if you mix your own blend. There's a pro UK tuner that mixes his own. Followed his recipe and have been very pleased with it. And from your first post, you already have two out of three ingredients, motor oil (STP in this case for me) and silicone oil (treadmill lube).

For the longest time I've used STP + moly powder. Then went on to STP + tungsten disulfide (WS²). Then STP + silicone oil + WS² (WS² is a little finer than MoS²). They all work very well. Stir it up before each use. As always, less is more. All you need is a very thin film of the stuff. Work the piston back and forth to ensure a good coating, then reassemble.

Not sure if you've bought the Honda lube but if you want, I can make you a sauce cup of the STP + silicone oil + WS² mix. I see you're in Spruce Grove so you're not too far from Edmonton. We can arrange a dead drop. I'll put the mix behind a lightstandard/mailbox/fence post... whatever, and you pick it up next time you're in Edmonton (I'm in the SW part of the city). And we both maintain anonymity from each other. If you like it, order some WS² powder from ebay. But a sauce cup will last you a long time so you may not even need to. If you don't like it, strip and apply lube of choice.

The one thing that surpassed this mix in slippiness was graphene wax from a mountain bike chain lube (Absolute Black). But I couldn't get the stuff to stick to my rifle's internals for long. Will have to figure that out later.

Anyway, drop me a PM if you want some.

I have an 8 oz tub of 65% Loctite Moly Paste #51048. It was given to me by a shooting buddy I did some machining for. He used it for years and kept a tiny container of it before he gave me the big tub. I have used it on every airgun I own, packaged some of it up in little containers to give to friends, and I still have half a tub left. If you haven't used moly paste, it turns everything that comes in close vicinity to it a dirty black. I mean everything. Hands, clothes, wood, etc.
I read somewhere, or it may have been one of Brutuz's videos, to mix a little moly paste in with 30wt ND oil as a lube for hinges, triggers, etc. Used very sparingly, it works well. Over-apply and everything turns black!
In my experience, the moly grease at Canadian Tire works fine if applied sparingly. The good stuff stays where you put it whereas the (thinner, and mostly carrier, about 2% moly) cheap stuff tends to migrate, sometimes enough to cause dieseling. The paste will diesel too, if you use too much (I learned the hard way). Some folks get their shorts in a knot regarding lubes. They all work, some better than others. For example, I received two little tubs of clear grease with two custom springs I bought from Vortek. As far as I can tell, it's just silicon grease. I have not used it since I'm happy with the moly paste.

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Theory is when you know how something works, but it doesn't.
Practice is when something works, but you don't know why.
In my shop, Theory and Practice are combined!
Nothing works and I don't know why.

Two lathes and too many projects