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 Post subject: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:20 pm
Posts: 2374
Location: Spruce Grove AB
Continuing the recent wood working trend here on the caf... Here's a set of grips I made. Yeah it took forever :lol:
I'm working on a mk1 build for my dad, who is left handed.
I did the majority of the inletting with the lathe and end mills.
I also roughed out the thumb rest on the one panel in the same basic manner, except free handed on the drill press.

I finished them with tung oil. I was actually surprised by how much oil they soaked up. Didn't see a need to stain them at all, the coco looks pretty good by itself.


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1_IMG_20211227_014145972.jpg
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IMG_20211228_153431841.jpg
IMG_20211228_153431841.jpg [ 690.86 KiB | Viewed 666 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 11296
Location: P.G. B.C.
Well done. They look fine. Any stain on those would have been too dark, it appears.

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
Posts: 4144
Location: Kingston, ON
Those came out really nice. It's suprising how dark some woods turn out with tung oil by itself. I was really surprised at the color change I got on cherry. It went from a very pale beige to deep cherry red with just one coat, and if course darker and darker with more coats. I finished my 1322 grips with walnut stain and now 3 coats of tung oil, letting it dry between coats, one more should do it.

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:34 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
As with any wood finish, made damn sure the previous coat is hard/dry/cured before adding another. If a fresh coat is put on a "green" coat, it is likely to take forever to cure, if it ever does.
I like to wait 24 hours minimum between coats. Some finishes, like True Oil will feel hard and "dry" in 2 or 3 hours, however I learned to resist the temptation and wait 24 hours between coats.

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
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Location: Kingston, ON
Daryl wrote:
As with any wood finish, made damn sure the previous coat is hard/dry/cured before adding another. If a fresh coat is put on a "green" coat, it is likely to take forever to cure, if it ever does.
I like to wait 24 hours minimum between coats. Some finishes, like True Oil will feel hard and "dry" in 2 or 3 hours, however I learned to resist the temptation and wait 24 hours between coats.

Very good advice, specially for those of us, myself included, who suffer impatience when it comes to finishing wood. On my wife's cherry wheel, it was weeks between coats - using pure uncut tung oil.

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 5:59 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
I agree, Duke. Years ago (I've been refinishing rifle stocks since 1969) using Linspeed or True Oil or Spar Varnish I found the first coat, if thin enough, would harden
in 24 hours. After that (except for Spar Varnish) subsequent coats would feel dry in 2 to 3 hours, so I would apply another coat. To apply these coats, I would pour
a bit of the "oil" into the cap, then just barely touch a finger tip into the oil, then "dot' the stock over a small area, then rub that in until my hand slid - feeling dry, then
move to the area beside that spot and continue, dot, dot dot, rub., until the whole stock was finished. Then wait until it was bone dry. Now, I do that same, but make
myself wait 24 hours before applying a second, third, etc coat.
Spar Vanish makes for a VERY water resistant finish - likely the best. Spar Varnish is what row-boat oars are coated with. Applying it as a stock finish, takes a LOT more time.
It's drying time is days for each thin coat, in a dustless atmosphere, if possible. It does make a super water-proofing finish, but is VERY tedious to apply.
I once read an article written by an East Coast American, duck and goose hunting Guide. He would spend the winter/spring refinishing his Browning Auto5 with spar varnish,
which absolutely protected the stock for the hunting season. Before switching to Spar Vanish, the finish with the normal stuff, Linspeed or True Oil, he would have to change
shotguns part way through the season as the finish would be GONE. Rain and salt water spray take their toll.
For that reason, I switched to spar varnish but found I didn't need to re-finish my gun (Browning Citori O/U) ever again. I did not like the buildup, though and switched back to
the boiled Linseed or True Oil. I did dry Jim Chambers Colonial Finish, which was nice, but now use Tung Oil exclusively. It is a better water resistant finish than True Oil.
This stock, however, finished in True Oil in 1986 and hunted moose with for a couple decades, is still in fairly good shape.


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IMG_2731.JPG
IMG_2731.JPG [ 653.33 KiB | Viewed 624 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 6:08 pm 
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Location: P.G. B.C.
Killer crow, if you want to produce a "glass" (Browning-type) finish, put on 3 coats, then sand with 1,500grip wet/dry(black) paper (Cdn Tire) down only to the wood's
surface, then 2 or 3 more thin coats, sanding again, using an eraser for backing the paper to prevent waves, then more coats, etc, until ALL the pores are perfectly filled.
Then 3 very thin coats and finished. You can polish that surface with a rouge paste with mineral oil to get the shine up,if desired. I did this with a Belgium Browning rifle
that needed refinishing due to it's rotten 'plastic' finish from chemicals in the gun case it was stored in. The "customer" wanted the "piano" finish that those Brownings
came with, so 56 (or was it 65?) coats of oil and 6 months later it was finished & looked (almost) like a brand new out of the box Belgium Browning. There were a couple
small light spots on the barrel, but the stock was perfect. The cost to the customer, was $600.00. Considering the rifle was worth about $1,500.00 then and it was given
to him in the first place, it was still a good deal- and it had a brand new oil finish that looked just like the original dipped plastic finish - a mile deep.

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:36 pm
Posts: 976
Location: nvvan
Wow thats some light cocobolo.
Nice looking grips!

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 9:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:20 pm
Posts: 2374
Location: Spruce Grove AB
Thanks guys.
Daryl, before I started the project I had no idea about the oil finishes taking literally months. I did follow the rule, letting it dry for a good day before putting more on. It does make sense...
But I definitely don't have the patience to do 60 odd coats :lol:
3 will have to do. Thanks for the insight though, it is much appreciated.
I would eventually like to get some more gear and experiment with different woods, finishes, and some laminating. Like a normal laminated stock.
My old Ruger 77 needs a new stock... Instead of buying one I might attempt to build one.

Walther, this is the only piece of cocobolo I have seen personally, wouldn't know what to compare it to.
It looks pretty on par with the pistol grips I have seen on Google though.
The piece I have is the very center of the tree it seems. If that makes a difference..


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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 12:45 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2021 5:36 pm
Posts: 157
Location: Boundary Country BC
Those turned out really nicely. Well worth the time you put into them, I think.
JD


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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 11296
Location: P.G. B.C.
Killercrow, have you checked out boyd's for a stock blank?
Used to be called BoydBoys (usa).

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 4:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
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Location: Kingston, ON
Dukemeister wrote:
I was really surprised at the color change I got on cherry. It went from a very pale beige to deep cherry red with just one coat, and if course darker and darker with more coats.

For interest sake I am posting a picture showing how dark the cherry wood turned with tung oil only as a finish. Not an airgun but shows you that you need to try your finish on a scrap piece before committing to it on your stock/grips.


Attachments:
wheel before n after.jpg
wheel before n after.jpg [ 118.58 KiB | Viewed 563 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:20 pm
Posts: 2374
Location: Spruce Grove AB
Holy that's a dramatic change! It looks awesome though. Did you build that?

Yeah I know what you're saying, I recently carved a Gunstock war club out of maple... I even dyed it with some home made dye. The wood looked really good and finished, until I put the tung oil on it! Every little scratch and gouge that I didn't see, popped right out. But it's ok, it's a club. Looks a little more authentic now.


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IMG_20211230_211209212.jpg
IMG_20211230_211209212.jpg [ 685.48 KiB | Viewed 559 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
Posts: 4144
Location: Kingston, ON
killercrow wrote:
Holy that's a dramatic change! It looks awesome though. Did you build that?

Thanks, no, it is commercially made - it a $2000 wheel, unfinished. My wife's hobby - she picked this up off kijiji for... wait for it $125. This is how I'm now able to feed my airgun addiction and maintain matrimonial harmony: She collects wheels, I collect guns..peace at home goodwill to all!

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 Post subject: Re: Cocobolo mk1 grips
PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 11296
Location: P.G. B.C.
killercrow wrote:
Holy that's a dramatic change! It looks awesome though. Did you build that?

Yeah I know what you're saying, I recently carved a Gunstock war club out of maple... I even dyed it with some home made dye. The wood looked really good and finished, until I put the tung oil on it! Every little scratch and gouge that I didn't see, popped right out. But it's ok, it's a club. Looks a little more authentic now.


A blade or spike coming out on the bend (breech area) would then look awesome, like the gun-stock war club used by Gingukskok(?) in The Last of the Mohicans.

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