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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2022 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:21 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Ontario
I need help separating both halves of the valve body from a Crosman SA6.

I started by following what was done on Another Airgun Blog. He placed the larger diameter in his lathe chuck and used a brass punch to unscrew the smaller part.

I was not that lucky because nothing moved and I was starting to get some slipping marks from the jaw even after heating the valve with my heat gun.

I thought to make two aluminum sleeves. One for the small diameter of one side and another for the intermediate diameter of the opposite side because it was the largest hole I could make (.75").

The idea was to clamp the large part in my vise with the small compression sleeve and used the other compression sleeve with the handle on the small part. I even had a cross pin to engage the transfert port.


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This time it seemed that it moved but discovered that, in fact, it was slipping in the block that was in the vise.

From what I read, normally it should only be finger tight so I am not sure what the previous owner did.

Any suggestions on what I should do next.

Thanks.

R-Gun Pete


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2022 9:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:46 pm
Posts: 2974
Location: Canada
Pretty much out of options. When "gentle" fails, I resort to "Terry the torch"...ie heat the "F" out of it. When it starts smoking is the time to try your fixtures again.

Could try heat and quench first, works for corrosion, but not for overly ambitious application of thread locker.

Nothing in there that can't be replaced.

Al


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2022 9:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:21 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Ontario
Hi Gippeto.

Thanks for your reply.

Finally I tried something else this morning. I cut my larger compression block in half then wrapped a layer of thin rubber around the .75" diameter of the valve and clamped everything in my vise. This time it didn't slip and spin so I was able to unscrew the smaller portion of the valve.

I have now access to all the parts and can proceed to the next step.

Have a nice day.

R-Gun Pete


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2022 11:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:46 pm
Posts: 2974
Location: Canada
Good stuff.

Better to succeed with "gentle" options. A little surprised your fixture held better with the rubber, but all good. :)

Al


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2022 11:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
Posts: 3596
Location: Kingston, ON
Gippeto wrote:
Good stuff.

Better to succeed with "gentle" options. A little surprised your fixture held better with the rubber, but all good. :)

Al

LOL, I'm not surprised, I know R-Gun-Pete quite well and one thing for sure is he is very gentle. Where some of us may have tightened the heck out of the "chuck" and dealt with the marks after... he wouldn't do that.

Glad you persevered and did it right!

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Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2022 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:21 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Ontario
Hi!

I have not been checking the forum today and I missed your replies.

Some peoples go on shopping spree but for me that part is over, I have so many airguns that I cannot find enough time to exercise all of them.

Instead I am on a repair spree for my vintage airguns. I started to check them only to discover several that were leaking CO2 and now I am rushing to fix them before closing my shop for the winter.

I took some notes and I hope I will be able to remember the balance of what I did but I am planning to write several posts on those repairs when things get a bit slower.

As for the unscrewing problem, it seems that my 3/4" hole was too close to the size of the neck of the valve to apply enough compression to avoid the slipping. I cut the block in half and with the extra thickness of the rubber and the fact that rubber is gripping, it worked.

I think the culprit was the o-ring that was completely deformed and was sticking to the thread.

Anyway I am progressing and tomorrow I should know if the stuff I did today was successful.

Cheers.

R-Gun Pete


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