Canadian Airgun Forum

The #1 Community for Airguns in Canada!
It is currently Tue Jan 31, 2023 7:41 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours


The Canadian Airgun Forums are a place for people to discuss and learn about airguns and the airgunning sport in Canada. There are lots of discussions about airguns, airgun accessories, reviews, modification and repair information, airgun events, field target and free classifieds!

 

You need to register before you can post: click the register link to proceed. Before you register, please read the forum rules. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload your own pictures, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple, and absolutely free! To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.






Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 9:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Hi i have a 2021 model hw80 in 22 cal i bought a new spring from D+l airgun in langley bc
when i tryed multiple times to install it even once with the safety out to see if it would cock
i got spring bind the coils were tight together and no go ! I could see the piston rod latch
comming back to meet the trigger latch but i just couldnt get the spring to come back far
enough to push the sear back that 1/4" more that it needed to cock.Tryed a few times then
gave up and put the old spring back in.The velocity was dropping off right from new to a point
that i thought it was spring.I installed a new piston seal put old spring back in and now seams
to work fine still shooting under 1/8th" c-c at 18 yards.Im getting 735 fps out of the crossman
premier 14.3 gr hollow points -674fps out of the jsb hades 15.89 grain and 620 out of the
H+n baracuda hunter extremes at 18.52 grain velocity very close between shots.Oh and how
many ft lbds will i lose by cutting one coil or colapsing one coil in this 22 cal thanks again everyone


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 9:57 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2022 7:48 am
Posts: 96
Location: Edmonton
IMO
I would start with cutting a half coil check for binding and repeat, only small cuts at a time or you’d end up with a stock length spring and see no gains Maybe you only need to cut off 3/4 of one coil to achieve your desired performance
Cheers

_________________
Sī vīs pācem, parā bellum


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 11:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 9663
Location: P.G. B.C.
I doubt anyone can predict with accuracy what velocity will result from modifications.
You are still running over 16fpe. My HW97 in .22 produces just over 14fpe same as my HW97 in .177 & I'm happy with those.
Shooting under 1/8" (.125") at 18 yards is wonderful. I'd be REALLY happy if my HW80 in .177 did that however it won't. It will do that
at 10 meters though. I do not know the power level of this rifle as I've never chronographed it.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 3:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
Posts: 3596
Location: Kingston, ON
I reality you want to cut And collapse the end coil otherwise you end up with a pig-tail spring that will not compress evenly.

_________________

))))----//----------==

Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 4:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Dukemeister wrote:
I reality you want to cut And collapse the end coil otherwise you end up with a pig-tail spring that will not compress evenly.


Hi Dukemeister do you meen either end of spring and just one coil i was going to cut one coil from either end and put that side to the trigger block


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 4:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Armoredshell wrote:
IMO
I would start with cutting a half coil check for binding and repeat, only small cuts at a time or you’d end up with a stock length spring and see no gains Maybe you only need to cut off 3/4 of one coil to achieve your desired performance
Cheers


Hi Armoredshell can you just cut a half coil at either end and not have any problem with how the spring funtions or is it better to cut one complete coil thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 4:16 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Daryl wrote:
I doubt anyone can predict with accuracy what velocity will result from modifications.
You are still running over 16fpe. My HW97 in .22 produces just over 14fpe same as my HW97 in .177 & I'm happy with those.
Shooting under 1/8" (.125") at 18 yards is wonderful. I'd be REALLY happy if my HW80 in .177 did that however it won't. It will do that
at 10 meters though. I do not know the power level of this rifle as I've never chronographed it.


Hi Daryl thanks again


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 4:42 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2022 7:48 am
Posts: 96
Location: Edmonton
I added a picture of one of my springs although it’s hard to see this a factory spring and the coils at each end are the same so on mine it would not matter which end was cut Just take a good look at your factory spring compare it to the new one Then clamp hard in vise use a 4inch grinder with a zip disc and cut, carefully and slowly, place the cut end into piston install and check for binding
Cheers Mike


Attachments:
C57F5899-6F12-4DD6-A16D-B187A96409DB.jpeg
C57F5899-6F12-4DD6-A16D-B187A96409DB.jpeg [ 315.39 KiB | Viewed 245 times ]

_________________
Sī vīs pācem, parā bellum
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2022 7:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Thanks mike


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2022 12:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:35 pm
Posts: 9663
Location: P.G. B.C.
It would likely be a good idea to grind a flat on the end that is cut off and place that end outside the plastic plunger tube, so the spring does not bend/kink due to having a non-flat end.
Maybe this will not matter?

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2022 1:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:17 pm
Posts: 3596
Location: Kingston, ON
Daryl wrote:
It would likely be a good idea to grind a flat on the end that is cut off and place that end outside the plastic plunger tube, so the spring does not bend/kink due to having a non-flat end.
Maybe this will not matter?

Yes what Daryl said more eloquently than I did but it's what I'd recommend. What I do is cut the amount I want off one end, then clamp the last 2 coils in a needle nose vice grip, then apply propane torch heat on the last 2 coils, red hot. Quench immediately in cold water. Then remove the vice grip and grind the end flat, follow with polishing down to 1000 wet sic paper, Moly the spring and install into gun and hope the fps is what you want. If its still too high cut a bit more and repeat. If too low, buy a new spring.

_________________

))))----//----------==

Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2022 9:07 pm 
Offline
Site Moderator

Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:25 am
Posts: 4319
Location: Ontario, Canada
I've cut a few springs this year and my method is similar to the Duke. I hold the spring with bare hand and use a Dremel with cut-off wheel to carefully cut a coil. It cuts fairly easily. Then I use a small stone drum/cylinder on the Dremel and remove the burrs on the end of cut. Then hold spring with heavy leather work glove and heat cut coil to read hot. Use needle nose pliers to easily squeeze end flat (collapse end). Let spring cool without quenching. Once spring is cool I use grinder to flatten the end. The spring will now look just like a factory dressed spring.

I don't have an angle grinder so I use a 4" grinder wheel on my drill and it works fine. Sometimes I secure the drill in my B&D Workmate and sometimes I just hold it down on an old padded chair in my shop. It doesn't take much pressure to grind the spring flat and even. Go slow.

Once the end is dressed you can bevel the spring ends and file/sand smooth to get rid of grinding marks on both ends. If you do a good job you won't be able to tell which end you shortened.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Daryl wrote:
It would likely be a good idea to grind a flat on the end that is cut off and place that end outside the plastic plunger tube, so the spring does not bend/kink due to having a non-flat end.
Maybe this will not matter?


Thanks Daryl will do


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:44 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
Dukemeister wrote:
Daryl wrote:
It would likely be a good idea to grind a flat on the end that is cut off and place that end outside the plastic plunger tube, so the spring does not bend/kink due to having a non-flat end.
Maybe this will not matter?

Yes what Daryl said more eloquently than I did but it's what I'd recommend. What I do is cut the amount I want off one end, then clamp the last 2 coils in a needle nose vice grip, then apply propane torch heat on the last 2 coils, red hot. Quench immediately in cold water. Then remove the vice grip and grind the end flat, follow with polishing down to 1000 wet sic paper, Moly the spring and install into gun and hope the fps is what you want. If its still too high cut a bit more and repeat. If too low, buy a new spring.


Thanks Duke wasn’t sure if I should quench or not as the guy in the uk with tbt in his video said no need to quench ?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2022 7:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 148
TCooper wrote:
I've cut a few springs this year and my method is similar to the Duke. I hold the spring with bare hand and use a Dremel with cut-off wheel to carefully cut a coil. It cuts fairly easily. Then I use a small stone drum/cylinder on the Dremel and remove the burrs on the end of cut. Then hold spring with heavy leather work glove and heat cut coil to read hot. Use needle nose pliers to easily squeeze end flat (collapse end). Let spring cool without quenching. Once spring is cool I use grinder to flatten the end. The spring will now look just like a factory dressed spring.

I don't have an angle grinder so I use a 4" grinder wheel on my drill and it works fine. Sometimes I secure the drill in my B&D Workmate and sometimes I just hold it down on an old padded chair in my shop. It doesn't take much pressure to grind the spring flat and even. Go slow.

Once the end is dressed you can bevel the spring ends and file/sand smooth to get rid of grinding marks on both ends. If you do a good job you won't be able to tell which end you shortened.


Thanks Tc Cooper yes I watched a video with the guy from tbt in the uk and he said when collapsing a could you don’t need to quench the spring after ?


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 18 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list

Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO