Canadian Airgun Forum

So I pulled out my trusty .177 Daisy 853 to try out the new pellets I got, then saw that I had put it away with a muzzle in need of some cosmetic enhancement. Some fiddling around with bits and pieces in the tool chest gave me this idea: Drill out, polish and blue a spent CO2 cartridge. I think it turned out quite nice. The only drawback, I didn't make it to pellet testing, yet.

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Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.

Looks good

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1976 Sheridan Blue Streak .20
1977 Webley Hurricane .177
Slavia 630 .177
Gamo Magnum .22
Beeman QB Chief .22
Beeman AR2079A HPA .177
Beeman P17
Umerex Colt Commander
Artemis M11 MK2 .22
FX Dreamline Classic .25
Hill EC-3000 compressor

A little CA or epoxy to secure it?

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Best Wishes
Daryl

Hot melt glue at both ends.

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))))----//----------==
Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.

Well!!. Impressive!!

[emoji38] i have some empty 88g capsules...........

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~Plinkers~
XS28M .25 @ 26fpe
HW45 Beast
6mm AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU
Tau-7/IZH-46M/FWB-65/CP88
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k
CZ200s Laminated @ 10fpe
AA ProSport 177 @ 12fpe
HW 40+Extender/Scoped P3/70/75

Doesn't the cold blue only apply to steel? They can blue the co2 capsules too?!

I have some black color wood stains.....

_________________
~Plinkers~
XS28M .25 @ 26fpe
HW45 Beast
6mm AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU
Tau-7/IZH-46M/FWB-65/CP88
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k
CZ200s Laminated @ 10fpe
AA ProSport 177 @ 12fpe
HW 40+Extender/Scoped P3/70/75

Yes, CO2 cartridges (12g and the 88g) are steel, and it blued very nicely with the Browning stuff I got from Crappy Tire. I have been very impressed with that cold blue, it's pretty easy and forgiving and has a nice deep blue colour. I treat it with some ATF fluid at the end, makes it deep, rich and a bit glossy. Black wood stain wouldn't do anything on steel, of course.

_________________

))))----//----------==
Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.

I have some cold blue stuff from my shooting buddy and he bought it from Amazon I think... Never tried on the co2 capsules yet...

Because looks I didn't notice the capsules get rusted... So I don't know they are steel too... For the color, I thought it's some kind of aluminum or alloy of something else

_________________
~Plinkers~
XS28M .25 @ 26fpe
HW45 Beast
6mm AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU
Tau-7/IZH-46M/FWB-65/CP88
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k
CZ200s Laminated @ 10fpe
AA ProSport 177 @ 12fpe
HW 40+Extender/Scoped P3/70/75

Yes, they have a coating, likely zinc I sanded it off and polished it before blueing.

_________________

))))----//----------==
Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.

If.......

Looks not too bad~ [emoji38] [emoji38]

_________________
~Plinkers~
XS28M .25 @ 26fpe
HW45 Beast
6mm AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU
Tau-7/IZH-46M/FWB-65/CP88
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k
CZ200s Laminated @ 10fpe
AA ProSport 177 @ 12fpe
HW 40+Extender/Scoped P3/70/75

I keep a tube if Birchwood Casey's Cream Lube on hand for touch-ups.
I apply applications until I get the even colour I want, then run the cold water tap over the article
wipe it off and oil with WD40. Any oil would work.
IIRC the 12 gram Co2 ctgs. were quite rough and were coated. Sanding and finishing to at least 400grit
is what I would do. 600 and crocus cloth would be even better. A small lathe to spin the ctg. would make
this an easy job.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

I cut the nipple end off with a cutoff blade, square, drilled the 2 ends out after, then fitted a long 1/4-20 carriage bolt down the centre and chucked that up in my hand drill, and began the polishing. I started at 320, then 400, finishing up at 600, then went for the metal polishing compound that made it really bright and shiny. But I reasoned that being steel, it would likely then begin to pit or worse, so either paint or blue was in order. I went for the blue and it took a few coats but came out nice. Next semester i should have access to the student lathes again, and I'm planning to make a few muzzle brake/weights, in aluminum and brass. I also have some Mg alloy stock that would make some very light muzzle brakes, but I have no idea what it would do long term, since it would be a sacrificial anode if there is contact with the steel barrel (which has contact with all the metal parts of the gun) then perhaps the whole action from trigger to muzzle would be protected. I have never seen or heard of a sacrificial anode deliberately installed on a gun but I don't see why the concept wouldn't work. Aluminum is used pretty extensively (which is why I find the regulators in PCP guns have so much corrosion, where they contact the inside of a steel tube). Brass is commonly used for bling-bling (triggers, bolts, bolt handles) and it is more cathodic than mild steel but because the steel (anode) surface area is so much larger than the brass (cathode), the corrosion rate is very slow. Atmospheric corrosion is much more dominant in that case than galvanic corrosion between brass bling and steel action.

_________________

))))----//----------==
Age quod Agis, et semper ubi sub ubi.

That's interesting between anode/cathode contact.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

wow very ingenious duke. and lookin good. i just paint mine orange -- hang em on a string and shoot them.

That'll work too. I don't have any, but that's OK. Too many ricochets down here in the basement, I suspect, however one handing in the middle of my shooting box might work.
The range is so short- 10 meters at most, I just shoot for oblong holes for 5 shots.
8:15 PM down here in the hole (my wife's description of the basement) - can hear the wind howling - have to check that out.
REALLY windy, but mild.

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Best Wishes
Daryl