Canadian Airgun Forum

This pin you talk of is it a threaded pin?

Could a hollow threaded rod be inserted then the original pin could be inserted up the center to the metal parts again.

Thank you.

Can you post more pictures of the pin that attaches the metal parts and rough size of this pin?

Also take pictures of the hole where this pin is inserted?

Take your time and relax don't be in a rush to slap it back together, I have more ideas.....

I would have recommended Titebond 11 or 111 as well.
I have used Gorilla Glue on one bow lamination and it worked fine, but that lamination was clamped every 3" for the length of the bow 69".
Normally, I used Titebond 11. There was no 111 in those days.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

Ditto on titebond. Glued along the grain it will be stronger than the wood. .i.e if it breaks again it will not be the glued joint.

Saw a test once, on 1" cubes of maple, with minimal clamping together, with a variety of different glues.
The test was done to shear the joint.
"Ice" as a glue, took 12 pounds pressure to shear the joint.
5 minute epoxy took 28 pounds force to shear the joint.

Hide Glue took 44 pounds to shear the joint, as-did Fish Glue, 24 hour 2-TON Epoxy and Titebond11. IIRC, Elmer's White wood glue was identical - 44 pounds.
40 to 42 pounds was the average shear strength of the wood itself, used in the test.
I used 2-ton epoxy to repair the neck (reattach) to the body of the Cello. As far as I know, it is still being played.
Someone tried to use 5 minute Epoxy & it broke why tuning. I had to remove all of the brittle 5 minute glue before my repair. Seems to me, I also had to reglue the main bridge/fret down. It held.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

I think the problem with the fast cure stuff is that the glue doesn't have time to fully impregnate the wood before fully curing.

I think where most make their mistakes when gluing wood is that it needs to be "jointed" as in both surfaces need to be smooth to have best adhesion. Face and sides glue the best; Gluing end grain, not good. Some ol' timers used to chisel/scrape gouges in the wood for better adhesion......Never listen to those jackknife wood workers.

On rough breaks, a thick style or epoxy style glue is best.

On natural oily woods such as teak etc, a foaming style glue for the lazy person or for best results, wipe both surfaces with a high grade solvent such as thinner, then use the glue of your choice. Yes, Titebond makes a foaming style glue as well (same as Gorilla), which I have no use for.

Edit: Always be aware of the shelf life of the glues in your cabinet as well. Color changes in most cases is a give away. To notice color change one needs to be using glues regularly to even notice.

Good info on glue age and changes. Tks that's something I am poor at.
Grooves introduced on smooth flat surfaces simply increases the bonding surface area, hence improved strength per "size" (outside measurement) of glued area.
Grooves matching, side to side are best in this respect & is what the Turkish bowyers did when joining the horn bellies to the wooded core of there highly stressed bows.
Sinew alone, was the back of the bow, applied with fish glue for the Turks and hide or animal glue for many other cultures who made laminated bows.
Properly made fish glue and hide glue are the strongest glues, however they are not water resistant & joints made with them must be protected from moisture- even ambient humidity is bad for them.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

So what you're saying is running two pieces of wood through a table saw and gluing it up with the saw kerf blade marks is stronger than running both pieces of wood thru a jointer? That is 100% untrue!

The smoother the better the bond will be the strongest. There is a lot of folklore that just ain't true.

Bow building is a whole different animal all together. There is a lot of knowledge to learn when gluing pieces of wood together. When you buy two pieces of board some boards have more summer growth and some have more spring growth. Cup and warp have to all be considered when laying out boards to laminate.
Many folks think you build a bow and you can stress it and use it right away. The bow will break first pull.....Bows need to be "trained" very slowly and gauged to make both sides even or they break. Those master bow builders also had 150 to 200 year old trees to work with. Bring one of those "master builders" into today's world and they would fail and have to adjust their knowledge.
I've build more than a few dozen bows myself. It is not easy as it looks.

The Bowyer's Bibles worked for me. I've also built self and laminated bows.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

We went off kilter a bit.....Kinda but not really?

Anyway, I sure hope Joebones got his unit assembled and back in working order again. It would be nice to hear the outcome.

Yes indeed - what happened with the repair?
Was Resorcinol Epoxy what was meant by 2-part and better, WoodWelder?
Leaves a purple glue line, doesn't it? Oh yeah - it's that time.

_________________
Best Wishes
Daryl

Hi all, sorry about that... I put it back together. The rod that runs through the handle is very snug (I'd have to drill it out to add anything else, but on the plus side, as it tightens it essentially clamps the rifle together where it has been glued. I'm happy with the repair, as it isn't in a load bearing place (unless I hold the rifle one handed by the grip, which I don't). I'll add a picture in a while. I'll use it for a while and if it holds I may re-stain the stock. If not, I'll be back here looking for advice on a more sturdy fix. Thank you all.

Some pictures...

https://imgur.com/Xs7le9o

https://imgur.com/A04otiC

The rod thingy...

https://imgur.com/JE14XQo