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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 8:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 255
Hi i am getting premature whare of the pellet prob oring from the synthetic patches
i use to clean my pcp barrel,i know these orings are considered whareable parts but
is there a better patch thats not so abraisive to the breech pellet probe oring ? Im in
the proccess of cutting a bunch of cotton patches for the barrel and being 22 cal i will
make them 1.5" square.How tight should the patches pull through the barrel should
they be tight enough to make them squeak when you pull them through of only just
snug.Sometimes i just pull a few through dry as i dont want to compleatly strip all
the lead wash from my barrel .When the gun gets realy dirty or accuracy falls off i
then use a few patches with balistol first when done i follow with dry patches.When
done and sqeaky clean i lube the probe oring in the breech with light coat of silicone
grease as well as the end of the pellet probe.Im thinking of trying the method of the
pellet probe bump heat shrink this will do away with the need for an oring.What is the
best oring pick to remove this oring and whare can iget one ? I ordered a pack of 50
buna-N Nitrile orings in 70% durameter hardness for this breech probe oring as they
are not hard to replace but i think they may be from china as i ordered from amazon.
Orings are hard to get in canada and the places in the usa wont ship unless you order
100 each at a high cost thanks everyone


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:25 am
Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
Check your yellow pages for hydraulics shops or seal & gasket shops or industrial supply stores. You might be surprised at what you have locally. I live in a small city of 100k and there are at least 6 places where I can buy o-rings in small amounts. Also try ToolTown, Grainger, Canadian Tire, Princess Auto, Home Depot, Home Hardware, Fastenal, and Walmart.ca.

I would never use an abrasive patch in an airgun. Cotton (flannel) works fine. Buy a square yard and cut a few patches to check fit. Sometimes a 1"x1" will work fine for .22cal. It depends on what you use to pull them. I use a piece of .080" or .065" weedwacker cord with a point on one end and a disc that I melted and shaped on the other end. This is pretty much a "PatchWorm" system that dealers sell. If you use a cleaning jag or a slotted tip (meant for oiling) then your patch size will differ.

I like my patches snug. Sometimes they will squeak when lubricated. If they are too loose then the patch won't get into the rifling grooves. I typically use two wet patches followed by a few dry patches. This shouldn't harm your probe o-ring at all. Maybe you have a rough pellet leade?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 4:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 255
Thanks Tc Cooper for some reason this cayden likes a clean barrel. I now have
The nsa 17.5 grain slugsin .2175" diameter shooting 1/2 inch at 50 yards they
Are this guns fav pellet at 930 fps and they hit real hard and fly flat .


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:25 am
Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
FlyFisherMan101 wrote:
Thanks Tc Cooper for some reason this cayden likes a clean barrel. I now have
The nsa 17.5 grain slugs in .2175" diameter shooting 1/2 inch at 50 yards they
Are this guns fav pellet at 930 fps and they hit real hard and fly flat .


Wow, that Cayden is shooting accurately! I hope you are able to test at 100 yards too. I'm curious to hear how much the groups enlarge as distance increases. My cheapo Phantom shoots 0.82" at 50 yards but 3.8" at 100 yards. Something seems to be happening between 60 and 100 yards. I'm wondering if the traditional waisted shuttlecock pellet design has limited accuracy at longer distances. Possibly it's air movement or pellet stability. It's interesting stuff.

Do PCP shooters use pellet or slug lubricate these days? I remember way back about 20 years ago guys were using FinishLine bicycle (dry wax based) chain lube for springers and a wet lube for pumpers (Slick 50 Lube-1). I can't recall what was used in PCPs back then. Possibly the wax based lube would help keep down the excess lead fouling in your Cayden.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2023 11:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2023 6:53 pm
Posts: 81
With regard to pellet vs slug, distances and velocities.

There is a series of videos "Airgun Ballistics 101" In later videos they get into that very topic

https://www.bing.com/search?q=airgun+ba ... A1&PC=U531

_________________
Be The Pellet


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2023 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:36 pm
Posts: 819
Location: Chilliwack, BC
TCooper wrote:
Check your yellow pages for hydraulics shops or seal & gasket shops or industrial supply stores. You might be surprised at what you have locally. I live in a small city of 100k and there are at least 6 places where I can buy o-rings in small amounts. Also try ToolTown, Grainger, Canadian Tire, Princess Auto, Home Depot, Home Hardware, Fastenal, and Walmart.ca.

I would never use an abrasive patch in an airgun. Cotton (flannel) works fine. Buy a square yard and cut a few patches to check fit. Sometimes a 1"x1" will work fine for .22cal. It depends on what you use to pull them. I use a piece of .080" or .065" weedwacker cord with a point on one end and a disc that I melted and shaped on the other end. This is pretty much a "PatchWorm" system that dealers sell. If you use a cleaning jag or a slotted tip (meant for oiling) then your patch size will differ.

I like my patches snug. Sometimes they will squeak when lubricated. If they are too loose then the patch won't get into the rifling grooves. I typically use two wet patches followed by a few dry patches. This shouldn't harm your probe o-ring at all. Maybe you have a rough pellet leade?


As one should expect, I agree with TCooper.

When cleaning my PCPs, I follow the same procedure as TCooper outlined, while piloting the plastic jacketed cleaning rod with rag and fingers against the muzzle. I remove the shroud and muzzle attachments while leaving the breech closed to avoid passing the breech seal "O" ring. That seems to avoid damaging or dislodging the O ring.

Someone pointed out what is obvious to those familiar with hydraulics and other O-ring service: Be very cautious regarding the use of O-ring picks. It is possible to scratch or otherwise damage the O ring groove, potentially creating a very difficult-to-solve air leak.

I use dental picks for most O ring service, given that they are much smaller in diameter than standard O ring picks. Rather than to slide between the O ring and ring groove, I often prefer to stab the O ring and hook it out. Depending on access, a plastic or other probe such as a tiny screwdriver may be more useful.

Installing a new ring, IME is easiest by lubricating the ring, sliding it into the bore, crosswise, then using a short dowel to prevent the O ring from being pushed out of the breech, when a long dowel is used from the muzzle end. In that fashion, I find it simple to push the ring into place where it naturally enters the groove. Forceps are handy to hold the short dowel, for those of us with fat, fumble-fingers.

_________________
Slavia 618 .177
Webley Senior .22
Jelly SUPER 4.5 mm
Webley Viscount .177
Kral Mega Marine Walnut .22
Artemis PP750 .22
FX Streamline .22 walnut
FX Streamline .22 composite
FX Dynamic 500 .22


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2023 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:25 am
Posts: 4598
Location: Ontario, Canada
PL00 wrote:
With regard to pellet vs slug, distances and velocities.

There is a series of videos "Airgun Ballistics 101" In later videos they get into that very topic

https://www.bing.com/search?q=airgun+ba ... A1&PC=U531


Many thanks! Excellent videos. I watched a few already. The one on pellet vs slug stabilization was very informative. Now I'll have to watch the episode on twist and check the twist rate in my cheapo Phantom. I'm starting to think it might be too fast for good pellet stabilization at 100 yards but works fine at distances up to 60 yards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur6iIcVhHmM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xuIQ0HnZ3E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pR5j4aZwNH0&t=33s


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2023 9:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 255
Never had much luck with the bicycle chain wax with my springer or pcp all i do now
and as specialy for the nsa slugs is wash well in very hot soapy water then dry well.
After dry i just roll them on a cotton cloth sprayed with balistol thats it.When i first
started shooting the nsa 17.5 grain pills they wouldnt do better that 1.5" at 50 yds
with the coating they had on them from the facory.I have also found with the slugs
in my cayden that they realy like a clean barrel and then one fouling shot.The fouling
shot always hits about an inch higher than a group and if i shoot the slugs right after
shooting a differant pellet it takes at lease two shots to get the slugs back where they
should be its like they need to lay down their own deposits in the barrel.I have lapped
and polished the barrel and lapped and polished the crown very carefully then did some
trigger polishing as well.Have shortened the h/s a few times and it is now at 3.25" length
this is whare i will leave it.I get about 36 full power shots possibly 40 but then from 36
to 40 shots im bellow the recomended bottonm of 2000 psi.The slugs average from
924-930 fps with 927 average .


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2023 9:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 255
Forgot to mention i havent tryed at 100 yet as i use mostly for pesting and i
prefer to do head shots at up to 50 yards for quick humane dispatching of
the rhodents i shoot.If i need to shoot further i bring out the bull barrel 22
rim its bang on at 100 very tight groups and i use the bull barrel 22 mag
gophers up to 200 yards


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2023 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 8:22 pm
Posts: 255
Normk wrote:
TCooper wrote:
Check your yellow pages for hydraulics shops or seal & gasket shops or industrial supply stores. You might be surprised at what you have locally. I live in a small city of 100k and there are at least 6 places where I can buy o-rings in small amounts. Also try ToolTown, Grainger, Canadian Tire, Princess Auto, Home Depot, Home Hardware, Fastenal, and Walmart.ca.

I would never use an abrasive patch in an airgun. Cotton (flannel) works fine. Buy a square yard and cut a few patches to check fit. Sometimes a 1"x1" will work fine for .22cal. It depends on what you use to pull them. I use a piece of .080" or .065" weedwacker cord with a point on one end and a disc that I melted and shaped on the other end. This is pretty much a "PatchWorm" system that dealers sell. If you use a cleaning jag or a slotted tip (meant for oiling) then your patch size will differ.

I like my patches snug. Sometimes they will squeak when lubricated. If they are too loose then the patch won't get into the rifling grooves. I typically use two wet patches followed by a few dry patches. This shouldn't harm your probe o-ring at all. Maybe you have a rough pellet leade?


As one should expect, I agree with TCooper.

When cleaning my PCPs, I follow the same procedure as TCooper outlined, while piloting the plastic jacketed cleaning rod with rag and fingers against the muzzle. I remove the shroud and muzzle attachments while leaving the breech closed to avoid passing the breech seal "O" ring. That seems to avoid damaging or dislodging the O ring.

Someone pointed out what is obvious to those familiar with hydraulics and other O-ring service: Be very cautious regarding the use of O-ring picks. It is possible to scratch or otherwise damage the O ring groove, potentially creating a very difficult-to-solve air leak.

I use dental picks for most O ring service, given that they are much smaller in diameter than standard O ring picks. Rather than to slide between the O ring and ring groove, I often prefer to stab the O ring and hook it out. Depending on access, a plastic or other probe such as a tiny screwdriver may be more useful.

Installing a new ring, IME is easiest by lubricating the ring, sliding it into the bore, crosswise, then using a short dowel to prevent the O ring from being pushed out of the breech, when a long dowel is used from the muzzle end. In that fashion, I find it simple to push the ring into place where it naturally enters the groove. Forceps are handy to hold the short dowel, for those of us with fat, fumble-fingers.



Great info NormK and thanks a bunch


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