Canadian Airgun Forum

Within 24 hours of receiving 2 of them

- The first one died after 50 shots. Fails to maintain pressure upon cocking.
- The second one died after 31 shots. Same issue: Fails to maintain pressure upon cocking.

Both junk.

Cute, but junk. Accurate, consistent until it fails, but total junk.

Stick to the P17 folks.

The LP400s are fun, compact, decent trigger etc. (You can read about them in the Gallery on the forum.)

2/2 of the ones I purchased, NEW, are dead ... and it took 81 shots total to destroy them / blow seals or whatever.

I'm starting to lose faith in Artemis / Snowpeak. That's 3 lemons now from them.

They look pretty until you try to use them. Last time I tried to take the PP700S-A out for a little fun in the backyard, the pellets were practically falling out of the barrel, that's how bad the regulator got.

Not happy. Not buying anything else with the name Artemis/Snowpeak anymore. That's how that cookie crumbled.

Tempted to sell the other Artemis/Snowpeak items in my possession at this point.

_________________
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Province: Ontario
May all who are afraid of discourse find their rights trampled further.
Cowardice is never rewarded.

Did you notice when the pressure leaks out, where the air vent out? A crack on the piston end plastic block which should be the valve housing I think??

Too bad to see the quality of these two shooters were so bad.....

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~Plinkers~
FX-M3-22 Compact#PP700-Carbine#Diana48-177#XS28M-25@26fpe#HW45 Beast#AW-Custom Z-Killer DE
~Competitors~
FWB300SU#Tau-7#IZH-46M#FWB-65#CP88-C
~Target~
HW 30s/35e/97k/40+Extender/P3+Scope/70#CZ200s Laminated@10fpe#AA ProSport-177@12fpe

I can only infer that the leak is under the accessible part of that piston or plastic part.

All attempts to use my fingers to plug potential leaks fail to alter the sound of the air venting out.
Placing my ear near the plastic block indicates that it's the general area of the leak.

The issue manifested the same way as the first gun .. first it seems to loose pressure upon compressing the piston, but then it's ok for a while and shoots fine. Next time it fails, game over.

I have to punch out the pin that pivots the piston, which I couldn't seem to do on the first gun, but I'll try again. The seer needs to be removed first to make the piston/plunger assembly easier to remove. That part is easy.

Anyways, garbage guns, do not buy. Let's see if they are salvageable. Maybe after replacing some gaskets or whatever is wrong, they'll be good for another 81 shots.

Blech.

_________________
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Province: Ontario
May all who are afraid of discourse find their rights trampled further.
Cowardice is never rewarded.

I have attached a screenshot of the booklet where they address the issue.

Apparently my issue is 6, which is "Change O ring of piston or valve body."

Yay me. No spares.

The guns come with spare breech o ring but not anything for the valve.

Bad o rings? Maybe the guns can be saved.

_________________
-
Province: Ontario
May all who are afraid of discourse find their rights trampled further.
Cowardice is never rewarded.

I would start by replacing the piston/pump o-ring. Sometimes the intake ports on this style of piston have rough edges and cut chunks from the o-rings. Lightly polish intake port to remove burrs. The port is usually just a small hole in the bottom of the compression tube.

The internal design looks somewhat like the P17. If the above doesn't fix the problem then change the valve stem seal. You can see the valve assembly in your pic, hanging off the bottom of the tube. There will likely be an o-ring sealing around the threaded valve plug and another on the end of the stem. HOPEFULLY it's just o-rings and not specialty seals.

The two valve o-rings are likely very small. Some of the Chinese o-rings are quite soft and get torn or damaged during original assembly. Try your local hydraulics shops or seal shops for replacements. Nitrile/buna should be fine and costs very little.

Drifting out the compression tube crosspin might first require loosening a lock screw. Look for a small set screw securing the pin.

Here is an old posting from when I replaced the seals on my P17 valve. The two sizes on this one were 006 and 008.
post237363.html?hilit=%20P17%20valve%20#p237363

You will have to check the Artemis o-rings sizes but below is what works in the Beeman P17. The originals are likely metric but these are close enough to work fine. Hopefully your LP400 uses similar sizes.

Nitrile o-rings
006 - valve stem seal
008 - valve body seal
009 - breech seal
116 or 117 - piston seal

This helps. Thank you! The gun itself only came with a single tiny o-ring. I believe it's the one that snugs up to the pellet. Of course there's no exploded diagram or anything.

I'm taking one of these to the workshop and dismantling it. Will look for a lock screw once I can get a better view after punching out a pin to get the piston assembly out.

Thanks again. There's hope. So basically, i'll dismantle it to get a list of o-rings to buy and hopefully get a precise location on the leak.

_________________
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Province: Ontario
May all who are afraid of discourse find their rights trampled further.
Cowardice is never rewarded.