Canadian Airgun Forum

Apologize my bad english, french Quebecer here.....

Went to Sail in Laval to look at the junk Chineese airguns. To my surprise,they had a Diana on display,240 Classic.

Asked the clerk to go for a new in box one for me to inspect,the gun was ok and no blemish.
Paid $249.

Went home and tear it down before even trying it. Damn! was i surprised to see such quality! Had all kind of airguns, the only one that was on par was my HW45.

Found little grit inside and rusty color gooey that cleaned-up nicely in hot water and dish soap.
Nice acethal spring guide,no top hat (will turn one on the lathe) Surprisingly,the spring was nicely ground at both end,d'ont know how they derated it to under 500fps.....

Very nice thick compression tube,full cross hatched WITHOUT any weld,should be concentric. Did not miked it but buttoned the piston and went in nicely.
Piston seal was not nicked and no deburring was needed.

Was about to order a HW30S, now i think that this little gem should give the HW a run for his money....

What did you use for buttons?

Used plastic from a screw container,plastic soda bottle like

I tried that once, couldn't get them to stay on. What did you use to stick them to the piston?

Overall, well-spoken meccano. For some reason, I wish that many EFL (English as first language) members could do as well.

But I digress from the topic at hand: Forgive me.

Hi All,
I'm new to air rifles and to this sight What are "buttons" and what do they do?

Probably adjustments.

Can you show a picture?

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Rifles: Horhe Jager .22 (LW barrel, 4500psi tube), Mp-512, Mp-60
Pistols: 46M, Zoraki HP-01 ultra, 2240, baikal drozd.

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When the 425-hp "street Hemi" version hit the street in 1965, it was akin to taking an M230 chain gun to an arcade shooting gallery
Peter

Woody:
Sorry you had trouble with that... Here's what is probably a more detailed description of what's in my guide, minus the pix:
I sand the piston and button so there's a rough surface for the glue to bond to. I usually fresh/sharp 320 wet/dry but I suppose 220-400 will work too. I sand in all directions so it's a maze of grooves. I then clean both surfaces well with brake cleaner or alcohol or whatever you have that leaves no oily residue. Most people use Krazy glue but you can also use epoxy, if epoxy just be sure it works with plastic. I also wrap the button around a small shaft, like a small screwdriver so it holds a curve that matches the piston, this way the edges won't be fighting to break free when gluing. I hold the button by the very edge with tweezers, apply a bit drop of glue, spread it around with a toothpick and place on the piston. Then I take the rubbery kind of electrical tape (not vinyl but I suppose it'll work too) and wrap the piston so it's basically clamping the button firmly and evenly to the metal. When I wrap I'm careful to be sure the tape is covering the button 100%, but the tape does not lay over the two sides to make an air tite seal b/c the glue needs to vent whatever chemicals in order to dry. Epoxy maybe not, but Krazy glue for sure. Let dry, which btw is not seconds for "instant" glue and better left for at least an hour but I suggest hours to be certain. Same with epoxy, 5min takes much more than 5 min. I'm in the desert so it's warm, and I rekon cold slows drying of either so something to keep in mind. Maybe warming it a bit will help. I've heated the piston to ~120F to speed it up, and while I believe it helps I can't say for sure. I usually do one button at a time since more than one is rather tricky to tape and keep them all in place.
When using Krazy glue there is sometimes an air bubble trapped, if so you can just peel the button off and try again, or just barely lift an edge w/ a razor and let a drop glue soak in and retape. Once dry I sand the edges of the button all the way down so nothing can catch on it.
Almost always you have to sand the thickness of the button down to get it back in the gun, just try to sand it evenly.
Some guns have so little clearance that you'd end up sanding the button off to get it to fit, so for those you need to sand the OD of the piston down to make room. A generic Crosman B18 has room for ~.004" of button, and most plastics we find are closer to .010-.015 so you have some sanding to do and since plastic is tough I suggest a Dremel.
Many guns, like the B18, the receiver tube is smaller at the aft end which I find annoying b/c you'd need to sand to fit past that and thus you lose button thickness and it's looser inside. I make a hone to open the tube, which is just a stick wrapped in duct tape, then sandpaper. The end product is a rather tight fit in the tube so it can sand well. I chuck the assy into a drill and sand until it's the proper ID. Btw I update the guide a little here and there so if you want the latest I can send.