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I would try to cold blue it anyway, you've got nothing to lose.
For painting I'd use automotive paint if you can, like acrylic urethane or polyurethane, if not the best rattle can spray I've used is polyurethane meant for R/C model airplanes. It's tough stuff to resist the nitro fuel and I've used it for a variety of things needing extra tough paint.
For painting metal I sandblast with 80 Garnet or similar, clean and strip with brake cleaner, heat the moisture out of the metal, then spray my coats and bake in the oven. Pita I know, just saying what's ideal.
The bluing doesn't affect anything so paint right over it, but oils, and especially silicone will so be sure it's stripped clean. If you can't sand blast then hand sand.
No you shouldn't oil the painted surface, it doesn't need it and the less quality the paint and prep work the more likely oil will seep under the paint which will eventually pop it off. The oil would need a place to enter but that's anywhere you didn't paint such as the cocking slot, bore, or damaged places like where the scope rings dig in, screws thread in etc. Gloss black would be way too shiny imo, but semi or satin should be ok.
Another thought might be camo. I've cut out stencils with heavy paper, like grocery bags and it turns out really good. I base coated the whole thing with a medium or olive green, then added dark green, tan and black shapes.
Check out epi.com, they have both cold bluing and paints for guns. Their cold bluing is the best and cheapest I've found so far. The trick with cold blue imo is to roughen the surfaces more than you normally would. Then strip with something like brake cleaner that doesn't leave a residue, and don't touch it after cleaning. Then warm the metal to at least 100F, bluing should be warm too, and soak it for a min or several depending on the stuff you're using and its strength. Rinse with hot water and use OOOO steel wool in the direction of the sanding marks to gently clean it up. Re-blue it if needed, it may even take more dips and/or longer soak times and maybe higher temps before you're happy. Once blued to your liking apply a good penetrating oil and let it soak in, maybe a few coats over an hour to be sure it gets enough. The oil isn't just for protection, but it makes it darker too so don't judge it too harshly until it's oiled and soaked, possibly for hours. The rougher sanded finish will come out darker/blacker than a smooth one due to more metal being blued per square inch/cm. If you cold blue a smooth, or worse a polished surface it'll look more translucent purplish blue like you tried to blue it with a sharpie. The courser finish also holds more oil for better/longer rust protection, since cold blue is inferior to hot this is something to consider. I would suggest experimenting first, maybe try several small unseen sections, maybe three 1cm squares sanded with maybe 400, 180, and 80, then use a Q-tip to blue each one so you can decide for yourself how rough you want to go. Rougher surfaces also turn out more uniform which can be a problem with compete blue jobs. Once I sandblasted a gun instead of sanding, 80 grit, it ended up having a kind of matte finish like an almost black parkerized look. It was very uniform and hasn't rusted at all in 20 years.
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