Canadian Airgun Forum

24" bar clamp, currently on sale at Princess Auto, with around 18" or usable space. Would this work to assist in compressing springs in order to remove/add them to springers? If so, would the 2' long one be enough or do I need to go for the next size up? (3')

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

With a few extras it works a treat. Here's mine:

_________________
My airguns: https://barx.org/airguns/

Hi Joolz

This is a little different but might give you some more ideas.

topic72010.html

Peter

Cool, so these do work. Well, not the 24" one, by a long shot. Heck, even the 36" ones wouldn't work, seeing how the Slavia 630 is a beast measuring nearly 46" long. I need 32.25" of workable compression for this gun and the 36" bar only yields 30", according to Princess Auto's website. Guess this means getting a 48" long bar - or going with Peter's ingenious creation.

Due to simplicity and less storage space required, Vestlenning's idea fits my needs better. The 48" bar clamps are on sale for just $16 and change.
Was going to use a scissors jack for my first attempt at removing a spring but these seem a bit safer/more stable with less chance of surprises. Can't have a spring flying through the house with all those kids all over.

Vest, would you mind posting a couple of pics showing the wood detail? It looks like the first block (closer to the trigger end) to be thicker to accommadate that part of the gun but it's hard to tell from the pic. Have you had any mishaps or close calls with your setup?

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

On non-fixed barrel models it is very simple to remove the barrel......a 24" clamp will work fine for those ones. Fixed barrel is a bit more tricky. I'm thinking of this, but man its not inexpensive.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01FKNEV38/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EM64EYH3SLDC&coliid=I3CKZ2LI1RMBN0

D&L has them too, with shipping about $300.00

_________________
When the 425-hp "street Hemi" version hit the street in 1965, it was akin to taking an M230 chain gun to an arcade shooting gallery
Peter

The rear and the front "wood arrangements" have diff widths to match max diameter of compression tubes and barrels. In addition I have another set of wood blocks to handle the compression tube only.

Each of the blocks is three pieces of plywood glued together, held in place with a threaded rod, washers and nuts.



With paper or cloth rapped around the barrel and the compression tube, then cords tied like in the pics above I'm fairly certain there's little chance of mishaps.

_________________
My airguns: https://barx.org/airguns/

Bar clamps generally work very well as compressors, as elaborate or as simple as you want to make them.
One thing to keep in mind is the Slavia 630/631 doesn't have a very powerful spring an it is compressed very little (in stock condition). If you got the 630 used and dont know if the spring has been shimmed, then be very careful... but you can normally remove the spring from these rifles without a compressor. Common sense and safety to be exercised, same as using power tools.
https://sites.google.com/site/cherrytwi ... 631tune-up

_________________

))))----//----------==
Iacio, ergo sum

Ouch. No thanks.
Not sure what fixed vs. non fixed barrel springers are. Would a fixed barrel be something like the under levers?
All my springers are the break barrel type (and after seeing how one can be mutilated by other styles, I'm sticking to break barrels).
Hard to tell from the pic which gun Vestlenning has in his compressor but you're saying that if it's a break barrel that it would be easier to remove the barrel prior to attempting to remove the spring? Guess it makes sense and that's what I thought was the procedure (till I saw his pic and got confused).

To clarify, I haven't yet gutted a springer so I'm new to the procedure. Maybe someone could clarify the size of the bar clamp I should buy based on my current needs?
Guns I have in the collection that I'd like to add liners to, perform a tune job using moly and replacing springs with more powerful ones are:

- Princess Auto $29 B1 (or B2 can't recall) cheapo that is a blast to shoot and a great test bed in case I mess things up in my first attempt.
- Crosman Phantom .22
- Ruger Air Hawk sub Pal that I want to make into a Pal by adding a full power spring
- Gamo 2100 Expo (your typical break barrel)
- Slavia 630
Other break barrel that I'm sure I have around the house but can't recall the model.

If all of the above can have the barrel easily removed and I can get away with the 2' long bar clamp, I'd like to get this size instead. Easier to store and overall easier to mess with.

PS: sale on these are on till June 11, for anyone interested.

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

Timely link, bookmarked. This will come handy when I take mine apart, thanks for this.
As seen in the post above, I do plan to work on other springers. But thanks for the tip on possible surprises not knowing what the PO may have done in terms of mods. Of course, will wait till I get some experience working on the cheapo guns before attempting the 630 but this is the one I'm most keen to get working, for obvious reasons.

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

Great, love the simplicity of it. Since these blocks are easy to make I can always experiment with different thicknesses (or just do as you say and add spacers as you have). Other than a couple of bucks for the long bolts, this is a very economical and quick build. Love it.

As per my post above, please clarify: which gun is in the compressor in your first pic? Looks like a break barrel but why did you not remove the barrel? Not questioing your choices, just trying to learn from those that have done it, since this will be my first attempt. As ITguy mentioned, if one was to remove the barrel he could get away with a shorter bar clamp.

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

It's a Lucznik 87 (Poland). I wanted to show a action with the barrel on, and the Lucznik was at hand.

_________________
My airguns: https://barx.org/airguns/

Ok, this confirms that the 2' long clamp should work. Measured all of tubes in my springers, the longest one being 15". Will grab one this afternoon before they get sold out, which often happens at PA. Thanks for taking the pics. This is now one less hurdle out of the way before I open one up to play with.

_________________
No, no, it was bigger than that! It looked like a weird monkey-dog thing!
COG First Class Recruit
Gears of War

This is all I use when working on springers. It's been working so far.


Use body weight to compress spring, insert punch into hole. Drive pin into opposite side, using the tapered punch for leverage to line everything up.

I guess a compressor would be easier, maybe a bit safer, but I haven't gotten around to needing one yet.

The biggest problem you will find with "inexpensive" clamps is deflection on the jaw face.

What i mean by that....if you try and clamp using only the first 1/3 of the jaw, it will deflect and possibly slip off, especially if you are using it vertically. You want as much of the rifle on the inside of those jaw faces as possible. Once you get the clamp and try it out, you will see what I mean.

Wear safety glasses and be careful.

_________________
When the 425-hp "street Hemi" version hit the street in 1965, it was akin to taking an M230 chain gun to an arcade shooting gallery
Peter

I use a bar clamp.