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painting pot metal
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Author:  killercrow [ Thu May 07, 2015 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:  painting pot metal

Just wondering, and I have tried lots of different paint. What is the definitive method for painting the old crosman guns?

Author:  pelsby [ Thu May 07, 2015 10:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Krylon has never disappointed me .

Author:  killercrow [ Thu May 07, 2015 10:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

And it's a tough finish? I'm almost thinking of epoxy paint. Like the stuff my oven is painted with.

Author:  Whitewolf [ Fri May 08, 2015 12:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Depends on your equipment. Personally I glass bead blast, wash with Brakleen of Accetone. Paint with ceramic header paint, 3 light coats 30min inbetween coats, bake for 2.5hrs at 350F. Let cool for couple hrs, reassemble. Have yet to see one come back.

Author:  killercrow [ Fri May 08, 2015 2:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

really... that sounds perfect. too bad my wife would hang me if I tried that :lol:

Author:  Whitewolf [ Fri May 08, 2015 11:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Find an old toaster oven. That the temp setting works. That will keep the wife happy...lol.

Author:  Chevota [ Sun May 10, 2015 7:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

I'll second the sand blasting, if possible, otherwise sand it as best you can and don't skimp around corners and such. Then I'd use a rattle can of polyurethane (assuming you're not into epoxy paints). Poly is a few bucks more and not always easy to find, so I suppose next would be Krylon, VHT, or Rustoleum. Whatever you do don't use cheap paint. You don't have to use an oven, but I believe it helps to heat it and you want to fully cured before it sees oil. Without heat some can take weeks to cure. You can let it bake in the sun, or hang it above a heater (or toaster ;)), or a box with a light bulb etc.
I've always used the oven and any smell will go away quickly after you're done, but women have that dog level sense of smell so use at your own risk.
The only thing I do different than Whitewolf is I do not bake or let it cure between coats. I coat, let dry enough to take another coat which varies on the paint, then bake at say 150F for an hour, then say 300 for an hour. (btw, do your ovens say F or C? I've never seen a metric oven). If I don't bake I still don't allow the paint to cure between coats. If by chance it does I'll sand/scotch brite it before a new coat. The ceramic is expensive, he probably meant header paint like VHT. I'm not sure how tough that stuff is since I've only used it on headers, with poor results btw, but no paint can truly stand that heat. Header paint absorbs oil too, so it will end up all over and the gun will look forever wet. Speaking of that, I'd stay away from any flat paints. For parts that stay under say 300F I've always had the best luck with polyurethane. That surface prep makes all the difference too, like the difference between a dent in the paint or it flaking off and the whole thing has to be redone right. Or if it sees oil which it will, then wherever the paint ends the oil will seep under and try to separate the paint, but if blasted it will be very difficult for the oil to work in there and it won't come off easily. It's basically like colored glue, and most people know what happens when you glue smooth surfaces vs rough ones. It also helps to practice painting something to get a feel for the paint, and shake well before and often during use for best results. It needs to be stripped of all oils and especially silicone, silicone is like paint cyanide, except it takes much less to ruin your work. It helps a great deal if the paint and object are both warm, say 85-100F/30-40C would be sweet. Good luck!

Author:  Whitewolf [ Mon May 11, 2015 12:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Whitewolf wrote:
Depends on your equipment. Personally I glass bead blast, wash with Brakleen of Accetone. Paint with ceramic header paint, 3 light coats 30min inbetween coats, bake for 2.5hrs at 350F. Let cool for couple hrs, reassemble. Have yet to see one come back.

Chevota, believe this is what I had stated. Not sand but glass bead, ceramic paint. Not VHT. Do read closer or reread as to the thread, prior to assuming. With programable electronics ovens can read either or.
Glass beads upon hitting the material not only clean but do polish, since the bead is exploding upon impact to a fine dust. Yes Ceramic paint is costly but will handle abrassion, oils and such. When applied and cured properly. Arma-Coat is another expensive product with great results.

Author:  killercrow [ Mon May 11, 2015 12:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

What paint do you suggest Kim?
I bought some vht header paint but can return it.
just wanna do it right the first time. And I need to find somewhere that does sand blasting now. I have a toaster oven though! That's a start :lol:
and thanks chevota for the insight. I have tried all the cheap methods and none work.

Author:  Whitewolf [ Mon May 11, 2015 1:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

The last can I got believe it was thru Cloverdale paints. Or High Performance Coating. As for bead blasting most machine shops have either bead blasting or sand blasting. Bumper shops for recoatings normally have sand blasting. Glass beads at 30-40psi works very well at removing old paint.
Option 2 is Arma-Coat Firearm Finishes......Barret Cholach 780 398 2678 :mrgreen:

Author:  crossliner [ Mon May 11, 2015 5:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Brownells Alumahyde paint.

Author:  crossliner [ Mon May 11, 2015 6:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Yes you should have it blasted like mine


Image


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Had the grips powdercoated, it's very cheap here less than USD4.00 for the 2 grips including the barrel bands..Just look at the receipt it says 2 pcs..

Author:  Whitewolf [ Mon May 11, 2015 11:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Powdercoating is probably the best finish, but upon frames such as the Cr Mk I or II, 600, 38 have a possibility to distort from the heat required to bake the paint properly to the frame. Anything over 560F the risk is there. I know, have had more than a few that this has happened too.

Author:  Ace [ Mon May 11, 2015 12:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

I think Anodizing is probably the best finish.... and you don't need extreme heat..... :wink:

Author:  Whitewolf [ Mon May 11, 2015 1:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: painting pot metal

Anodizing of zinc based products has not done well. Hence dicontinued back in the late 90s. There are very few placed that will still do it. It is a different procedure as compared to Alum based metals. Equipment and chemys are different as well. IIRC zinc anodizing requires an alternating current.

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