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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:45 am
Posts: 4
Hi, I warped the barrel in my Benjamin Trail NP2, I have a new barrel but can't remove the link pin in order to switch the lever assembly from warped barrel to the new one.
Does anyone know how to remove it?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
Posts: 1274
Location: United States
Like this?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:44 pm 
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Yes like that.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 2:48 pm 
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Location: United States
Just drive it out with a hammer, should be fairly easy. I'd put a little grease on it to lube the pivot point.
Btw, how much was the new barrel and is that cost direct from Crosman or thru a middleman?
I assume you bent the barrel the same way most everyone does? Did you try bending it back? They usually bend back nicely, often you can't even tell.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:27 pm 
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The cost was $ 29.07 direct from Crosman, I did not try to unbend it, maybe I should have tried to do that first. I also bent the barrel on my Benjamin Trail NP, I need to change that one also. I have the new barrel cost $ 15.65 but that one does not come with the alive jam so I have to take the one from my old barrel and I'm not sure how to do that. Would you know how?
Thank you for the previous comment, I was able to change the barrel today, now I only have to sight the rifle again.
BTW Crosman does not ship to Canada, since I live about 2.5 hours from the border, I got it shipped to a shipping place and went to pick my barrels up. I know that Gravel Agency wanted $90.00 for the regular Trail barrel and they couldn't get them.
I bent them when they slipped from my hand while cranking it.
Thanks again
Jean


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:57 pm 
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I'd try to bend it back, doesn't hurt to try. You take the shroud off, cock it, then while holding the gun parallel to the floor you push down. This is assuming the barrel is bent upwards from letting the barrel slam closed as you described.
True the catch doesn't come with the gun, but sometimes you get lucky. It isn't hard to change out, you just drive out the pivot bolt bushing and it comes right out. You have to keep the catch depressed to reinsert the bushing.
The more difficult part is the pin that hold the cocking linkage, which needs to be drilled out and replaced. A new pin is $1.15, or you can make a service removable one from the shaft of a # drill bit. I forget the size, #5 or 7 maybe? Just one size too big for the hole in the barrel block, then sand down until a nice press fit.
To install a new oem pin you drill a small shallow hole in the tip, like 1/8" hole maybe 1/8-3/16 deep. Insert into gun and while supporting the head side against the barrel block with a solid object you use either a center punch or #2 Phillips screwdriver in the hole you drilled to flare the end. It just needs a little flare so it can't come out. With a sharp center punch you may not need a hole at all, but I make one to minimize error.
Thanks for the prices. I wasn't sure if you were in CA, US or had a connection like you obviously do. You know you could make a lot of friends and a few $ with that...
Crosman barrels from China are ~$16. Ones that I think are US made are ~ triple that. Being $29 makes me wonder which it is, but I highly suspect China. Seems unlikely they could make that in the US and only charge 29.
Check the old and new barrels at and up to ~5mm below the crown for damage. Many have nasty dents in the lands and/or bad crowns. I cut the end off barrels with bad lands. The Trail and especially the NP2 have a lot of side to side play in the barrel, might consider replacing the plastic side washers with metal ones to give it better support.
If your old NP2 barrel is trash I have a question. If you're interested and have the tools, could you pull the barrel from the barrel block? I'm curious how it's shaped in there because I wonder how much work would be involved to put a longer barrel from the older model into the NP2 block. Also, anyone willing to buy a Lothar-Walther barrel (or whatever barrel) and machine to fit the NP2 could use that info as well.
I think the barrel is glued in, and/or a press fit so it may not be easy, but if you're willing....
Btw, if you do order from Crosman again you should get some main seals for both guns. They're very cheap and usually the original seal is damaged.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 12:52 pm 
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Thanks for the information, I was able to repair both guns. I'll try to remove the barrel from the block, I'm not sure how to do it or if I can but I'll try.
Jean


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 3:09 pm 
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The pix should give you an idea. You'll need to remove the pivot bushing for sure. Then there should be a pin behind the bushing that I'm not sure if it does anything, but I'd remove it just in case. And verify there are no other goodies like in the pix it appears there's a set screw on the under side. Then the barrel may be a press fit and/or glued into the block. My guess is a snug fit with lots of glue.
I've only taken one barrel out of its block which was a different model Crosman similar to the regular Trail. It was not a press fit and apparently they didn't use much glue so it was pretty easy. I tried to remove another one later and it wouldn't budge, but I didn't use much force because I didn't want to damage it. I have no idea how easily yours will come out, but if it's trash I figured no harm in trying.
The best way I can think of would be to slide hammer it out. I seriously doubt you have a weight to fit but if you have a 5-10lb weight from a dumbell you could use that. A big strong washer that fits over the barrel should stop the weight. Or slide the barrel thru something, like an old car rim and slide the barrel thru a lug hole. Or a vice with the jaws open enough for the barrel but not the block. A big Crescent wrench can work as a slide hammer. Or put the barrel in a vice and using a wrench twist the block to see if it breaks free. If the glue is too strong I'd heat the block to destroy the glue. If a press fit it will expand the block a bit and should help


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 11:40 pm 
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Location: Halifax, NS
redrx8 - pretty sure there is a retaining pin. Look closely on the *side face of block.
If you see a tiny circle protrusion/depression, it goes through to the other side of block.
This is a retaining pin & needs to come out before block - barrel dismantling. It may not be visible till barrel is removed from compression tube.
To loosen the epoxy; place barrel (block first, with most of the barrel sticking out) in the oven 250 (low-med heat) for 15/20 mins, turning the barrel a couple of times to get uniform heat.
BEFORE you put barrel in the oven, wrap paper towel that has been folded over & made into roughly a 2" wide strip & wet thoroughly with cold water, then wrap just above the barrel block to keep the heat from travelling up the barrel. Use more strips as needed.
Do NOT forget to wear oven mitts etc. before you grab the hot barrel. Vice comes in handy at this point for actual separation but if you don't have one, grab the muzzle end TIGHT & gently tap the underside of the block (just before where the cocking arm pin goes) with a wooden mallet. The closer to the barrel OD you tap the more effective, should you tap on the edge of the block not only will the barrel tend to swing out of your hand but the energy dissipated during tap/blow will travel other directions more than downward.
Take care not to hammer things as it will dent & gouge everything .. it is soft metal. It may take a couple of sessions of oven heating.
If intending to reuse block, it will help if you remove all the epoxy from inside while still hot because when you go to insert a barrel the epoxy will hinder the new fit .. you could always reheat a bit to melt & save on reapplication of new epoxy but then you'd have to reheat new/barrel as well, since the temperature difference between barrel & block may cause unreliable epoxy adhesion .. but a fresh THIN coat of JB weld works well in a clean block.
Go slow be cautious. Once that metal heats it take a WHILE to cool down! Note that dismantling barrel from block is NOT the hard part but getting the barrel back in the block you have to be VERY careful - if the barrel does not sit flush with block at the outlet of transfer port, you will have issues.
Also note the depth of the groove created between barrel & block where breach seal goes, if receded (barrel not far up enough into block) you will also have problems.
If there in fact is a retaining pin in your model, then the barrel will have a groove to provision the retaining pin, remember to orient the new/barrel so the groove will line up with the pin so it doesn't bend when tapping back in.

As far as LW barrels they do offer blanks: http://www.lothar-walther.com/457.php Not sure about shipping etc. or ITAR regulations on that. I do know people here have placed group orders.

Crosman *NP XL* barrel prices (most probably China made) were around $18 US about 3 yrs ago & by the time it gets from US to Canada with the exchange rate it climbs up a bit.
That said, the trail series may just have a LW barrel. Actually Crosman does have some "Crosman Lothar Walther barrels" (eg: http://www.dlairgun.com/Accessories/Cro ... arrel.html?)
Also - you can go to Gravel parts site & get prices AND availability right there: http://store.onlinecamp.com/en/bt9m22-0 ... 2-cal.html
Trail I believe were US made & seem to sport a German barrel.. hard to believe .. but so it seems .. hmm learn something new everyday. I always wondered why the metal on the Trail blocks looked umm "more exact" for lack of a better expression.
For other Crosman parts, just enter part # in search field on top right.

Hope it helps !

Regards

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...but, could Harry Potter's stick part the sea ?


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