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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2016 10:21 am
Posts: 6
im a newbie , so i bought the tune kit for my umarex surge .177 and i search from youtube , how to put the kit, i see the video and mostly they use spring compressor, is it necessary? is it possible without the home made spring compressor? i dont have not much tools to make a home made spring compressor. is it easy as diy? the manual from the vortek not much any info for to put it in and i dont wanna make any mistake and keep on safety first. any help much aprreciate. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 7:59 pm 
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Location: GTA
I've worked on many spring guns over the years and have never used a spring compressor. It would be much safter and easier to use one, but if you use extreme caution it's doable.
I find removing the barrel helps. A set of punches is a big help. With the Diana/Umarex the two pins make it easier. You compress the spring, put anot appropriate size punch in one hole, them put in a p I need in the other. Tapered punches help when there is only one hole. Same drill, compress the spring, then slide in tapered punch. The taper alows it to only go in partially, allowing room for the actual pin to go in the other side.

As mentioned a compressor would make it easier and safer.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 8:00 pm 
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I've worked on many spring guns over the years and have never used a spring compressor. It would be much safter and easier to use one, but if you use extreme caution it's doable.
I find removing the barrel helps. A set of punches is a big help. With the Diana/Umarex the two pins make it easier. You compress the spring, put anot appropriate size punch in one hole, them put in a p I need in the other. Tapered punches help when there is only one hole. Same drill, compress the spring, then slide in tapered punch. The taper alows it to only go in partially, allowing room for the actual pin to go in the other side.

As mentioned a compressor would make it easier and safer.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 10:12 pm 
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Location: Hill Spring, Alberta
If your Surge and the Vortek kit are sub-pal, changing the spring is pretty simple without a compressor.

After removing the stock, I stand mine on it's muzzle on a bench, remove the cap from the rear of the gun, (try to leave the safety in place because it's a pain to re-install if you take it out) press down with your fingers of one hand on the rear of the trigger unit (silver coloured), push the two pins out using a punch and ease the pressure to allow the trigger to back out of the action. It'll only go an inch or less.

If your gun is the 1200 fps model, and you have strong fingers I guess you could use the same procedure. (I've never tried it. I use a spring compressor.) Don't force the retaining pins out because if you can't take the pressure off with your fingers, when the second pin comes out and you remove the punch, you won't be able to hold the trigger unit and spring and they'll come out in a big hurry. If you can ease them out, they'll come out about 2 1/2" to 3".

Maybe to ease the spring and trigger out you could hold them against a flat secure surface and push on the action. You'll have to pull the safety off first.

Re-assembly is the reverse.

If you pull the safety out, to get it back in you'll need needle nose pliers and a flash-light. In the back of the trigger unit there is a vertical piece of metal which operates the safety, and the safety itself needs to slide in around that piece of metal. The metal piece needs to be pulled toward you against a spring which is holding it forward. It is hard to get centred all the way in, but that's what you have to do to get the safety to slide back in. The safety can be re-installed either before or after the spring and trigger are back in the action, but after would be easier because then you can use the whole back end of the trigger unit to push on.

I hope that makes sense.

Good luck and be careful!

Peter :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 11:28 pm 
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thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Location: United States
I don't use a compressor on any coil guns and most gas springs except for the super strong gas spring in the Crosman NPSS and NP2 guns which have more force than I weigh so I can't compress them w/o leverage. Everything else I can do by hand or lean my body weight on it.
If I can't compress it by hand then I put a leather glove on my left hand, that hand over breech end with the barrel removed or bent (linkage disconnected so the spring remains fully extended). Lean my chest on my left hand with the aft end of receiver on the carpet. With my free hand I can pop the pins out.
If the safety or misc is sticking out the aft end, like yours the plastic safety, then I use a piece of wood on the floor so the safety hangs over the edge. Or you could drill a hole in the wood for it.
The insides of some guns are flush or recessed in the receiver so you need a spacer to reach up in there, like maybe a penny.
Be wary about taking the trigger assy apart because lots of people can't get them back together. They're kinda funky so not easy to figure out, plus there's really no need to take them apart.
Your kit will be super easy to install, but optionally you can tinker with the gun further. Like piston buttons, smoothing the transfer port, modding the main seal for higher compression, maybe tinkering with the barrel. All of which I do and some.
If by chance you decide to use a compressor, I have a sketch of the one I used. It's so simple that from the moment I realized I needed one, to having the spring out was maybe 10min. So with the pix you can probably drop that to 5min. You need nothing but some scrap wood which rednecks like myself always have lying around. The pix is somewhere in this forum but can repost if needed


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 6:39 pm 
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Sorry for double post and jargon in my post. Typed that at work while my coworker was saying "let's go"


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 2:26 pm 
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Location: Ontario
The Umarex Surge is pretty easy to install a spring or kit without the use of a compressor. But if you or anyone on here did this with a magnum air rifle like a Ruger Air Magnum or Diana 350, you will hurt yourself very badly opening it up and if your still alive after this, you will not get the spring back in at all, no matter how strong you think you are. I know ... wink wink

Spring compressor is what you need though anyway, because if you are doing these types of mods now .. you will be doing more and probably different airguns so just build one and move on !

Be careful !

Btw .. I put the Vortec PG2 kit in my Umarex Surge. Your in for a surprise !


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 5:11 pm 
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Location: United States
I don't recall a 350 being any harder to do than a 34. It's not like I measured when I did them but they should be (and felt) more or less the same. Of course not everyone can compress these springs but I consider it fairly easy.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 12:55 am 
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Location: Ontario
Chevota wrote:
I don't recall a 350 being any harder to do than a 34. It's not like I measured when I did them but they should be (and felt) more or less the same. Of course not everyone can compress these springs but I consider it fairly easy.


Well the Ruger Air hawk and Surge were easy as pie for me to put back in. 1200FPS versions. The Ruger Magnum was impossible and I am fairly strong, the spring has 40 coils the Air Hawk has 28 & a Vortex OEM+ has 32. The Umarex with 32. I can push the magnum spring almost in but not for long and it hurts to hold it for any longer then a couple seconds. It's just too much pressure on a person's body and dangerous if it slips. If anyone can do this I'd like to see it lol. I used to bodybuild for 12 years, not that it matters. Perhaps the D350 does not have a spring like the Ruger Magnum? Or maybe a different D350 version ?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:58 am 
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Location: Burlington ON
Just depends on what sort of spring you are wrestling with but in my post about the HW80 tuning kit, there's a photo of the "spring compressor" I rigged up out of some scrap wood and a car jack. Cost nothing and about an hour to set up, which was a lot less time than I spent trying to put it back together without it. And it worked - surprisingly.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:21 am 
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Chevota wrote:
I don't recall a 350 being any harder to do than a 34. It's not like I measured when I did them but they should be (and felt) more or less the same. Of course not everyone can compress these springs but I consider it fairly easy.


Yes I agree, I don't think the 350/B28/Air Magnum had much pre tension at all. In fact I think it was easier to do than the 34/b25/Airhawk.
I've wrestled some pretty strong springs. I don't know why everyone makes such a big deal about a compressor. I find it discourages people from working on their guns. As long as you are aware of the potential energy that you are dealing with, and take precautions, it is 100% possible to work on a gun without one. If you can't get it back together, then you can build a compressor.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 10:45 am 
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Woody wrote:
Chevota wrote:
I don't recall a 350 being any harder to do than a 34. It's not like I measured when I did them but they should be (and felt) more or less the same. Of course not everyone can compress these springs but I consider it fairly easy.


Yes I agree, I don't think the 350/B28/Air Magnum had much pre tension at all. In fact I think it was easier to do than the 34/b25/Airhawk.
I've wrestled some pretty strong springs. I don't know why everyone makes such a big deal about a compressor. I find it discourages people from working on their guns. As long as you are aware of the potential energy that you are dealing with, and take precautions, it is 100% possible to work on a gun without one. If you can't get it back together, then you can build a compressor.


It's easy to work on most without one, but much better to build a compression device though, as you won't scrape the pins or shear them when you insert them into the trigger assembly as its held still and the holes aligned. The potential for metal bits and pieces in the trigger assembly and safety latch will be there and that's not so good.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:16 pm
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Location: United States
I usually don't compress the spring with my hand/fingers, but instead put my body weight on the breech end of the receiver to compress it. That way it's both way easier and I have a hand free to deal with the pins.
Attached is the compressor I made in a few minutes from scrap wood, which I had to do for the stronger nitro spring in certain Crosman guns (NPSS/RNP), and now the NP2.
You don't need to use a 4x4, but I put that in there to be safe. A 2x4 will work as long as you know it's strong enough, and since coil springs are much easier than even the lightest nitro springs I'd say a good 2x4 is plenty but use your own judgement. And whatever for a fixed object to leverage it on, like an exposed 2x4 in the garage will work, or whatever is the right height. Even two boards with a rope connecting them, picture a nutcracker... You can also use it sideways in a doorway, minus the sitting part.
So no need to make some complex expensive compressor...


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Spring compressor - super basic.jpg
Spring compressor - super basic.jpg [ 46.47 KiB | Viewed 721 times ]
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