I don't think the additional force on the pivot points is a big deal, but it is something to consider. So imo just use better lube and and/or lube more often.
I use good bearing grease and tungsten disulfide. The tungsten is a powder like moly, but I hear tungsten is hard to get/expensive in CA? I'm in the US so it's like $10/oz, and an oz goes a loooong way, maybe a lifetime supply for most peep. You mix it with grease or oil in whatever % you like to make a super lube. The big bennie is imo is you get it in dry powder so you can apply that directly to the parts, metal, plastic, wood etc and impregnate the material with it, then apply the mix you make over that. You also also use just the tungsten, but it's almost useless against rust so not a good ideal for steel.
Option two is to buy moly powder instead (easier to get in CA?) which is perfectly fine, but tungsten is slightly better. Option three is buy premixed moly paste, which is more $, you miss out on the dry part and you're stuck with their formula (whatever that paste part is), but you can thin it with motor oil if needed. Most peep that buy special lube get moly paste, which is good stuff for most things but not as good or versatile as getting the powder and making custom mixes.
Most people just do what you're doing; oil it with pellgun oil, which seems to be fine for most people so any upgrade at all is a bonus.
Do not use silicone on the pivot points, silicone is not a lube for metal, it's for synthetic stuff like seals.
The internals of the valve are a mix of metal and synthetics but no metal under stress so silicone is fine, and some parts like the oem plunger do not like most real (petrol) lubes so you have to be careful. The plunger will shrink and harden, or dissolve. You can use silicone for the plunger/valve if you want, but I'd use the pelgun oil which is a real oil but apparently has little affect on the syn parts. That why when the pellgun oil migrates around it's not a big deal on parts that would not like silicone. I have no doubt that the plunger will live longer with silicone than pellgun oil, but up to you. If you go to a flat top deal then you'll be using O-rings which imo will last longer than the plunger when exposed to petrol, and of course replacements are easy to find, cheap, and don't make a mess. "If" the oem plunger breaks down you have to (should) take the valve apart and clean the goop out.
So long story short, I'd prep the areas that see stress with some sanding, strip them clean, dry lube them (tungsten or moly powder), grease them with the mix and you're good to go. After whatever time you feel is good you can add a drop of pellgun oil or motor oil to the pivot joints, and at some point I would take it apart and re-dry lube/grease. You can also mix the dry lube with pellgun or motor oil, which is imo especially useful for joints you can't or don't want to take apart. As mentioned it's probably not a big deal since they usually work fine with minimal maint, I just like to go the extra mile. If you're into guns or other mechanical toys, or just have to maintain mech stuff, then tungsten (or moly) powder is a great thing to have. Graphite and motor mica are some other dry lubes, each with it's own range of uses.
I like the gun in the pix. Did you adjust the parallax in that scope to work at airgun ranges?
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