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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:24 am
Posts: 77
Location: South shore Montreal
Hello everyone

A month ago a came across a Browning Buck Mark URX on Kijiji sold by a lady in her seventies. She told me it was virtually brand new and had fired it only a couple of times. I didn’t count the pellets in the tin that came with it but by the looks of it and the pristine condition of the gun it really was in NIB condition.
I know it’s not the greatest gun out there but I was actually considering buying one as it filled the requirements I was looking for. First, it’s cool looking being the replica of a real one…It’s easy to cock, pretty accurate and quiet. The Buck Mark will be my winter basement and garage plinker.

Looking around the internet I found an exploded view and parts diagram and a couple of references on disassembly and trigger mod. With that I was confident I could improve the trigger. As many of you may know, strait from the box, the Buck Mark has a terrible trigger. Mine had a 5lb 10oz trigger pull. Stock weight is 24oz (680g) compared to 34oz for the real 22lr Browning Buck Mark. I thought that adding some weight would provide more shooting stability.

Disassembly of the Buck Mark is real easy with only four screws on both side plus two Allen screws holding the rail mount and “slide” to the frame. Removing the rubberised grip exposed a grid. I managed to fill most of the grid with lead, nuts, washers and other metal bits. They all are “press fit” so there is no rattle.
Attachment:
IMG_0420 (Medium).JPG
IMG_0420 (Medium).JPG [ 109.45 KiB | Viewed 777 times ]
The other place I was able to add weight is between the barrel and the barrel shroud. I was able to wedge about two dozens 2 inch length of soldering wire in there for an additional 25g. Now my Buck Mark weight a more satisfying 29oz (820g). I’m no expert but I think the gun has a better overall balance and the weight forward help stabilising the front sight.

While the barrel was dissembled from the muzzle part I noticed that the barrel had a loose fitting in the plastic muzzle. So I wrapped a couple of turns of Teflon plumbing tape on the barrel tip before reassembling. I also painted the rear of the front sight post white. Much better!

Moving on to the trigger I did the trigger mod following the vague instructions from the You Tube video I found. First time I over did it, ending up with a gun that could be fired while the safety was still ON!! Pretty scary… I managed to shape the sear back to even worse than 6lb pull!! The second time I successfully lowered the trigger pull to around maybe 3lb. I didn’t measure it since the more I shoot the smoother it gets. So I will wait until it stabilise itself.

While I had the trigger assembly on hand I also polished the safety parts. Now the trigger comes ON and OFF very smoothly with no jerking. A lot better!
Finally I reshaped the trigger itself as my right index finger rested at a slight downward angle on the trigger. The bottom left corner of the trigger was uncomfortably pressing on my finger tip. I filed, sanded and polished the metal trigger (yes a metal trigger!!) to its new shape.
Attachment:
IMG_0451 (Medium).JPG
IMG_0451 (Medium).JPG [ 59.67 KiB | Viewed 777 times ]


Cosmetically I removed the four ugly round mould marks on the left side of the barrel shroud, removed all moulding lines inside and out of the trigger guard, top and bottom of barrel shroud and back of grip frame.

Final touch was to strip paint and polish the trigger, safety lever and fake slide grips, which I think gives it a cool distinctive looks. I might completely strip and polish the slide portion later. Let me know what you think…
Attachment:
IMG_0461 (Medium).JPG
IMG_0461 (Medium).JPG [ 242.17 KiB | Viewed 777 times ]


With these mods this gun now shoots a lot more consistently, operated more smoothly, is a more stable platform. Considering its low power this gun is really for indoor short range 5 to 7-8 meters and I look forward to long winter days plinking quietly in my basement.

Now if I can only find a way to access that main spring to try to give it a little more power…

_________________
«It's not enough that we do our best, sometimes we have to do what's required»
- Winston Churchill

Daisy 953
Umarex HPP
Walther PPK/S
Smith & Wesson M&P 40
Colt Python .357 (polymer)
Walther CP99
Smith & Wesson TRR8
KWC 226-S5


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 5:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2016 7:47 am
Posts: 711
Location: Bradford
Yeager wrote:
Hello everyone

A month ago a came across a Browning Buck Mark URX on Kijiji sold by a lady in her seventies. She told me it was virtually brand new and had fired it only a couple of times. I didn’t count the pellets in the tin that came with it but by the looks of it and the pristine condition of the gun it really was in NIB condition.
I know it’s not the greatest gun out there but I was actually considering buying one as it filled the requirements I was looking for. First, it’s cool looking being the replica of a real one…It’s easy to cock, pretty accurate and quiet. The Buck Mark will be my winter basement and garage plinker.

Looking around the internet I found an exploded view and parts diagram and a couple of references on disassembly and trigger mod. With that I was confident I could improve the trigger. As many of you may know, strait from the box, the Buck Mark has a terrible trigger. Mine had a 5lb 10oz trigger pull. Stock weight is 24oz (680g) compared to 34oz for the real 22lr Browning Buck Mark. I thought that adding some weight would provide more shooting stability.

Disassembly of the Buck Mark is real easy with only four screws on both side plus two Allen screws holding the rail mount and “slide” to the frame. Removing the rubberised grip exposed a grid. I managed to fill most of the grid with lead, nuts, washers and other metal bits. They all are “press fit” so there is no rattle.
Attachment:
IMG_0420 (Medium).JPG
The other place I was able to add weight is between the barrel and the barrel shroud. I was able to wedge about two dozens 2 inch length of soldering wire in there for an additional 25g. Now my Buck Mark weight a more satisfying 29oz (820g). I’m no expert but I think the gun has a better overall balance and the weight forward help stabilising the front sight.

While the barrel was dissembled from the muzzle part I noticed that the barrel had a loose fitting in the plastic muzzle. So I wrapped a couple of turns of Teflon plumbing tape on the barrel tip before reassembling. I also painted the rear of the front sight post white. Much better!

Moving on to the trigger I did the trigger mod following the vague instructions from the You Tube video I found. First time I over did it, ending up with a gun that could be fired while the safety was still ON!! Pretty scary… I managed to shape the sear back to even worse than 6lb pull!! The second time I successfully lowered the trigger pull to around maybe 3lb. I didn’t measure it since the more I shoot the smoother it gets. So I will wait until it stabilise itself.

While I had the trigger assembly on hand I also polished the safety parts. Now the trigger comes ON and OFF very smoothly with no jerking. A lot better!
Finally I reshaped the trigger itself as my right index finger rested at a slight downward angle on the trigger. The bottom left corner of the trigger was uncomfortably pressing on my finger tip. I filed, sanded and polished the metal trigger (yes a metal trigger!!) to its new shape.
Attachment:
IMG_0451 (Medium).JPG


Cosmetically I removed the four ugly round mould marks on the left side of the barrel shroud, removed all moulding lines inside and out of the trigger guard, top and bottom of barrel shroud and back of grip frame.

Final touch was to strip paint and polish the trigger, safety lever and fake slide grips, which I think gives it a cool distinctive looks. I might completely strip and polish the slide portion later. Let me know what you think…
Attachment:
IMG_0461 (Medium).JPG


With these mods this gun now shoots a lot more consistently, operated more smoothly, is a more stable platform. Considering its low power this gun is really for indoor short range 5 to 7-8 meters and I look forward to long winter days plinking quietly in my basement.

Now if I can only find a way to access that main spring to try to give it a little more power…


Neat trick on the weight addition...I do the same thing but with lead sinkers from Canadian Tire...I have a pound of them in the stock of my MTR-77 (AR15 clone) to balance it out, held in with expanding foam with the added benefit of reducing that "hollow" sound. It was very muzzle heavy but now the balance point is behind the trigger guard.

I wonder if a gas ram might fit your Buck Mark, maybe one designed for the Hatsan model 25 Supercharger like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hatsan-MOD-25-Super-Tactical-gas-ram-/292189724457?hash=item4407dd5f29:g:vNwAAOSwCmZZSOQ9

_________________
When the 425-hp "street Hemi" version hit the street in 1965, it was akin to taking an M230 chain gun to an arcade shooting gallery
Peter


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:56 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Lebanon, CT
Very nice work on the pistol! I particularly enjoy the body work you've done; it really improves the overall look. I bought a refurbished model a few years ago and, though it's not built very sturdily, mine, from 8m, is quite accurate. I discovered that after loading the gun with the safety still on, and to pull the trigger to take up the slack, makes for a much better, at about half the force, trigger. Well done. RC


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 12:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:24 am
Posts: 77
Location: South shore Montreal
Thanks for your comment RC

Actually I found it to be overall well built. The sloppiness feeling comes from all the louseness in the break barel mechanism. I didn't mention it in my post but I also put tiny plastic shims on both pins on the push bar and barel ends. That reduced the wobbling a lot.

_________________
«It's not enough that we do our best, sometimes we have to do what's required»
- Winston Churchill

Daisy 953
Umarex HPP
Walther PPK/S
Smith & Wesson M&P 40
Colt Python .357 (polymer)
Walther CP99
Smith & Wesson TRR8
KWC 226-S5


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2013 1:56 pm
Posts: 225
Location: Lebanon, CT
I put a Millett sp-1 red dot on mine, and it's no slouch when it comes to groups. My only quibble is the tight arc of the trigger blade, though the longer a session lasts it just becomes transparent to the process of shooting. You're the first I've read that disassembly can improve something and be worth the effort. I've often thought of giving it the full spa treatment of a tune. Cool little pistols RC


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