I've been struggling with the trigger of my 2240 carbine for some time. The standard stuff about polishing the sear and other rubbing steel faces helped a little, but in a way actually made it feel worse, as there were very smooth parts of the pull but also a couple of relatively rough spots. The last mod I'd done involved a low-friction plastic shoe on the front end of the sear arm where the trigger pushes it upward. Helped a bit more, but still gritty. Shooting at Mission on the 29th was a blast even though it rained, a bunch of hours of fun plinking, but I found myself going again and again to the Atomic carbine as the trigger on that is just so much lighter and so smooth.
So in the evening I got busy searching for mods again, knowing there are a host of variations as people try to sort out these awful triggers. And I found this thread:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/t ... 20finishedGlenn Davis, a Texan airgunner, has modified his trigger using little pins, first drilling into his sear then soldering in a wire and bending the end to make contact with the trigger much closer to its fulcrum, dramatically increasing leverage on the sear. I liked this, but decided to do mine a bit differently.
So I pinched my sear between two pieces of aluminum, just ahead of the hole, and stuck that in a vise. This prevented heat from getting to the business end of the sear, which must be very hard to resist wear on the hammer. I heated the exposed end to dark cherry then let it cool on its own, then drilled into the end with a very small bit. I dug through my parts boxes and found a bit of some steel I knew stayed rock hard after heating (no idea what it is) and polished it a little, dipped it in boric acid and tapped it into the hole. Then I brazed this pin into place and cleaned it up and polished the tip rounded. Soldering would have been fine I guess but I wanted a solid mount with no risk of slipping loose some day.
Next I drilled a similar hole into the crotch of the right angle in the back of the trigger at an angle such that a pin installed there would meet the end of the new sear pin. I found a small nail with a thin, flat head and chucked it in a drill and filed down part of the shank until it would fit the hole, clipped this off, pushed it into the hole and soldered it into place. It's a compression stress on this one and no risk of it coming out so no need to heat it up enough for brazing. I then polished the head neatly and filed down the sides of the head until flush with the trigger body, then put the thing together. Here's a brief looping animated GIF shot with my phone (Samsung sure packs neat software into their camera suite!) showing the function. I figured motion might help make obvious the extremely improved mechanical advantage of such a setup. Contact surfaces are minimal and there's no risk of side-slippage thanks to my Derek Vinyard milled aluminum cover plate. I had long-since disabled the safety as it was just annoying and not terribly reliable, so I cut off and polished the area in this cover plate which had been made to contain the safety spring and bearing. This made just enough room for the nail to move freely.
The result, well, it kind of blew my mind. I had honestly given up on the Crosman trigger. The Mission outing had me hitting 1" knock-down paddles on steel targets about 1/3 of the time or more from standing at 30 to 50 metres, but even when I'd sometimes hit 3 in a row, sometime in the series would be a clunky, gritty trigger pull which would just throw my shot a country mile off target. I prefer not to shoot rested if I can help it so a smooth trigger is essential. Well now I don't have that excuse for my misses any more! This thing is easily as light as the trigger on the Atomic and has not the slightest trace of roughness. A wonderful trigger! While the drilling in such narrow pieces of steel is a little bit tricky it's easily within the scope of anyone with decent drill skills. A drill press would help with alignment... but it was late by the time I was drilling and I didn't want to crank up that noisy thing. Anyway, hope this helps if anyone's searching for ways to get their 22xx trigger working not just incrementally better but radically so. It's almost too light, but I like a light trigger, being used to about a 520 gram pull on my Pardini K12.