Canadian Airgun Forum

I'm trying to help my friend to lube a new RWS 3400 he just got--as we tested the spring twang sound is loud and a lot of vibration when we just obtained it.
I checked the youtube video for Diana/RWS 34 disassembly however while we start it seems very different.

The end of the tube doesn't have any lock pins --yes it is a whole piece; also the trigger assembly seems welded on the tube and we tried a bit but seems not able to take anything apart.

If anyone here knows where we can take the spring and piston out, please let us know. Many thanks!

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A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

Some pics would be interesting to see. Apparently the RWS 3400 is somewhat related to the Walther Parrus and Terrus. It's said to be a blend of German & Chinese parts with an Italian stock that's all assembled in the USA.

Hi TCooper

Here is the photos

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

2 more photos of it

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

According the the photos. I assume we need take the triger assembly out first--however not until we can find manual it is not a good idea to do that...

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

That's definitely odd not seeing a large crosspin at the back of the receiver tube. The end plug likely has a long sleeve/plug that slips into the tube. The end plug might be secured with the thick pin at the front of the trigger mechanism. This would likely mean the entire trigger mech would have to be disassembled to slip out the end plug. The trigger pivot pin would also help secure the plug extension. Does that thick pin run through the part that is integrated with the end plug?

Thanks for help. Yes you are right. I just contacted RWS | Umarex and got the attached parts diagram. It is wired design as trigger assembly is a whole piece and secured just by the 2 thin pins and need to take it off completely before take the spring off. In this case I will hold off till weekend and bring to local range, asking an expert to take it apart...

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

Hi Tcooper

We got a problem as last weekend, I took the gun apart along with other local range member, and did the lube. however after put together I found that I cannot cock it. As the circled part it doesn't lock with the whole on the piston--it is not connected with anything when taken out, just place on top of the trigger assembly slot. I do feel when cock trigger is moving--and it suppose to lock the safety same time and didn't
We didn't touch the trigger assembly at all and just put it back as is. If you have any suggest, please let me know.
Thanks

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

Could the trigger already be cocked when you are trying to cycle the piston back? Maybe try dry firing just the trigger mechanism to be sure it is not cocked. Then try breaking the barrel to cycle back the piston to see if it will engage with the sear.

Does it look like the two small trigger mech springs are in position?

Thanks and will try--we didn't know if the springs are in position as it is a whole piece and didn't opened it--maybe we have to do that later on...

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

That circled part is the sear. The large crosspin that you tapped out should go through the hole in the one end of the sear. It looks like one small coil spring rests on the nub at the back of the trigger while the other end of the spring contacts the bottom of the sear.

Yes exactly, and finally I figure out what the problem is
Please see attached parts diagram, it has nothing to do with shears. The end of the spring is a lock screw, which I screwed all the way in--that is actually getting too deep to allow the piston to go to its right spot.
Today I took the trigger assembly out and saw there is 2 plastic pin right matching the 2 holes on the lock screw, thus I noticed I might get the screw inside too much and make it out right to fit the 2 pins and make it sits tightly, and then it works.
Now the rifle gets very smooth--no vibration and spring twang during the shooting with no jumping and shacking at all. Our lube seems to be working perfectly. And only one issue is during crocking still some noise--the range member mentioned last weekend as it is the spring touching the metal guide inside the piston during crocking and we cannot do anything about that.
Thanks again for your help and have a great evening!

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting

A plastic spring guide might be quieter. I usually make them from yogurt containers. If I need thinner material then clear clamshell containers from cookies works fine.

Thanks and I may try this later on as my friend already took the rifle back yesterday, as he tested he said he can live with that noise, as everything else gets perfect.

_________________
A Bunch of
495fps Springers/CO2/PCP
PAL Rated plinkers and target rifles
Finally get my PAL after 1 year waiting