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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:03 pm
Posts: 5330
Location: home of the Marshville Festival, Ontario, Canada
I was approached in regards to machining up a couple of 6" diameter sidewheels, and since I could use a couple myself, I took a drive to my local Metal Supermarket. Long story short, a single 6" dia. by 3/4" thick slab of aluminum costs around $30.00 OTD. Add a few hours of machining time to that, and the sidewheels cost is starting to get prohibitive - especially with a limited budget.

After a bit of head scratching, I came up with the idea for the "frugal sidewheel". Inexpensive, and easy to fabricate with the most basic of hand tools. I decided to use a piece of FRP (fibreglass reinforced plastic), which is available at hobby shops, electronics suppliers, and surplus shops. Other materials, such as aluminum could be used, but the FRP is thin (1/32"), light, and very flexy, but tough, and easy to cut and form.

The arc does not cover the entire range of focus - only the section from about 8 yards to 60 yards. The pics pretty much show all the constructional details. The outside arc is 6" dia. The top left pic shows the wheel set to approximately the 10 yard position, the top right pic shows the position at around 60 yards. The lower left pic shows how the sidewheel is fastened to the rear face of the (80 mm) sidewheel. There is about 1/8" clearance from the side of the stock when in the 10 yd position, as (not too clearly shown) in the botton right pic. A piece of card stock was glued to the outer periphery of the wheel for the range markings.

A low cost, easily fabricated, and not half-bad looking solution to how to get better range resolution from a smaller, factory sidewheel.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:45 am
Posts: 2099
Location: Southern Ontario
Very clever! I'd hit it with a nice spray of matte black paint to make it match the scope 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 4:54 pm
Posts: 1702
Location: Mississauga, Ont.
Supr:

I have a simple solution for the marking area. Get some ABS or Plexiglass that it at least 3/8" thick and make it into the shape of the white card and then screw it onto the FRP. That way, you can put the marks where the pin of the distance marker will cover the point on the wheel and make it so that can be read directly from behind and does not require the head to be moved.

On average, the cost of the custom wheels were in and around the 130 dollar range, but it has been 4 years since I got one made and Rick Lake is charging about that amount (AFAIK) and they are lined up at the doors for them. I would, for the amount extra it takes, make the wheel (if the material is wide enough) to reach 75 yards for those courses of fire like in NY State, where there could be a bonus target at that distance (not part of the true course of fire, though). Talk to you soon.

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Keyrigger
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When you are long winded, is that a sign of Wisdom or Old Age?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 03, 2006 10:27 am
Posts: 102
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I love that word. Nice work.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:26 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:03 pm
Posts: 5330
Location: home of the Marshville Festival, Ontario, Canada
Keyrigger wrote:
Supr:

I have a simple solution for the marking area. Get some ABS or Plexiglass that it at least 3/8" thick and make it into the shape of the white card and then screw it onto the FRP. That way, you can put the marks where the pin of the distance marker will cover the point on the wheel and make it so that can be read directly from behind and does not require the head to be moved.

I had thought about using a piece of 3/8" x 1/8" aluminum strip, formed to the proper radius, and epoxied to the face of the FRP, but decided to keep the design as simple as possible.

Having to move the head to read the ranging marks was basically a non-issue, because I usually rangefind first, then I have to completely alter my position to cock the underlever, and load the gun. May sound strange, but I find there is a lot more movement involved with cocking and loading the underlever HW97KL, than there is with the sidelever FWB 300S. The FWB can be cocked and loaded while leaving the gun shouldered, while the HW cannot.


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