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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:01 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
For many of you this is nothing new.... but I found it on the Internet and decided to try it out.... It works GREAT!.... I added three 4-40 SHCSs to adjust the length of the first stage, the overtravel, and the sear engagement.... For these mods to be effective, you will have had to already replaced the trigger (coil) spring with a lighter one to reduce the initial trigger pull and introduce what is effectively a first stage.... I use a 3/16" OD spring, 5/8" long, made of 0.020" wire to replace the stock spring which is 0.028" wire.... Other mods are polishing all the metal to metal contact points on the hammer, sear, and intermediate lever to at least 600 grit or finer.... If you want to reduce the 2nd stage pull weight, you can bend the sear (hairpin) spring to have a tighter angle but GO EASY.... Just 5 degrees makes a BIG difference.... 10 degrees and it will fire when you breath on it.... :shock:

Image

The upper screw on the back of the housing adjusts the trigger position.... Screwing it in moves the resting position of the trigger aft and hence shortens the first stage.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not cock or may fire when bumped, so BE CAREFUL....

The lower screw on the back of the housing adjusts how far the trigger can move backwards.... Screwing it in reduces how far the trigger can move back after it is pulled and hence reduces the overtravel.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not fire....

The screw on the bottom just in front of the trigger guard adjusts the sear engagement.... Screwing it in reduces the sear engagement, reducing or eliminating any creep.... If you screw it in too far, the gun will not cock or may fire when bumped, so BE CAREFUL....

Now the "how to" part.... Get three 4-40 socket head cap screws, two that are 1/2" long, and one that is 3/8" long.... There are already two holes in the back of the trigger housing and all you have to do is screw the two long (1/2") screws in there.... no tapping required because the housing is plastic and grips the screws nicely, preventing them from losing their adjustment.... Drill a 3/32" hole (or a #38-#39 if you have one) vertically just in front of the trigger guard.... Line it up carefully on the centerline of the trigger housing and make sure to drill straight up and not on an angle.... The insert the shorter (3/8") screw into the hole and screw it in, stopping when it JUST contacts the intermediate lever....

To adjust, first make sure that all three screws are not interferring with the action of the trigger.... Reassemble the trigger group, and install it on the action. You have to install the safety, as it tensions the sear (hairpin) spring and the gun is unsafe (it may not even cock) without it. Make SURE the gun is unloaded (no pellet) and pointed in a safe direction and then cock it.... I made my adjustments in this order:

1. Sear engagement: From the point where the front screw just contacts the intermediate lever, screw it in slowly, counting flats on the allen key, until the gun fires. Mine took only one turn (6 flats). Then turn the screw out a flat at a time until the gun cocks safely and will not fire with any amount of banging around. That is the MINIMUM safe sear engagement. My gun would not cock reliably with the screw out 1 flat from where it fired, and at 2 flats out it would fire when bumped hard. At 3 flats out, I could not make it fire no matter how hard I bumped it. Note that is only ONE-HALF TURN from where the screw first contacted the intermediate lever - so this adjustment is CRITICAL.

2. Trigger overtravel: This one I found pretty easy. I screwed the screw in until when I pulled the trigger the gun would not fire and then backed it out while holding pressure on the trigger until the gun fired. I then backed it out two more turns. Four turns out allowed the original travel, so I had reduced the overtravel by 50%. Set this however you like it.

3. First stage length: As you screw this screw in, it moves the resting position of the trigger back, shortening the first stage. I found that I liked it with about 1/8" of travel in the first stage, measured at the tip of the trigger blade. You may like more, or less, it's a very personal thing. Remember, however, if you eliminate the first stage completely the gun may be unsafe as you may actually be removing sear engagement.

Pop the safety out, reinstall the action in the stock, and re-install the safety and try her out!.... I can't believe the improvement.... :mrgreen:

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
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Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 4:20 pm
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Location: sherwood park
works wonders doesnt it :wink:
first thing i thought when i saw the 2 screw holes was to put some screws in it.
the trigger group from the 262 is a bit different though, the piece that contacts the trigger has 3 holes in it, which you can put the pivot pin in one of 3 holes, just a little added tuning i guess, short harder pull or long light pull, or in between.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 10, 2006 12:02 am
Posts: 1076
Bob for the cheapo trigger Crosman puts in the Disco this 3 screw setup really does work wonders for sure. Best single overall improment you can make to the Disco.


George.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 2:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:46 pm
Posts: 2815
Location: Canada
Might be an interesting mod. :|

Does the disco trigger assembly share the mounting screw spacing of the 13xx/22xx grip frame?

Any idea as to the cost of the trigger assembly along with a stock? (Guessing ~$30 for the trigger and ~$60 for the stock??)

Did some quick checking on this, and Steve Woodward appears to have a 2 stage sear for the disco/2260 as well. ($30US + shipping)

Not an inexpensive change over I'm thinking...gonna have to work GOOD to justify the $$$. :|

Al


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 4:22 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
The Disco trigger group is exactly the same as the 2260 trigger group.... The trigger mounting holes are the same on all the 22XX and Disco tubes.... so yes, you can interchange the rifle trigger group with the handgun trigger group....

I believe a 2260 Stock is under $50 and a Disco stock is about $80.... On the 2260 and Disco parts diagrams, all the trigger parts are shown separately.... so I would think it is not available as a complete trigger group....

I have never used a 2-stage sear.... however, by just replacing the trigger (coil) spring with a lighter one, you get a very nice, 2-stage trigger.... The advantage (IMO) is that the first stage does NOT move the sear, it only compresses the trigger spring.... Therefore, if you start to squeeze and stop when you just feel the second stage and then release it (how many times have you done that when hunting!).... you have NOT reduced the safety of the gun.... Some 2-stage triggers move the sear during the first stage and leave you with it "just hanging" and ready to fire if bumped hard.... I personally think that this is a simpler, and safer, arrangement that works perfectly.... so well, in fact, I will not be purchasing an aftermarket 2-stage sear....

Quote:
the trigger group from the 262 is a bit different though, the piece that contacts the trigger has 3 holes in it, which you can put the pivot pin in one of 3 holes, just a little added tuning i guess, short harder pull or long light pull, or in between.

The 2260 and Disco triggers have the same three holes in the housing.... however, the intermediate lever only has one hole in it, and will not work except in the center location.... it simply won't fit.... I guess if you made a different lever with three holes it woud work as you suggest.... but you can't simply move the pivot position using the existing lever....

Bob

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Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 4:30 pm 
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Location: Somewhere In Time
Gippeto wrote:
Did some quick checking on this, and Steve Woodward appears to have a 2 stage sear for the disco/2260 as well. ($30US + shipping)


Eric has had these adjustable sears for a year or so, I have the non-adjustable version and it is amazing. I would assume that the adjustable version is even better......
http://scopesandammo.com/storefront/pro ... cts_id=324

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:33 pm 
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Location: Coalmont BC
I have run into one problem using these mods.... If you remove too much of the overtravel on the trigger, the sear cannot move completely out of the way, and will drag on the hammer.... This causes low velocity and can cause terrible inconsistency and accuracy problems.... :shock:

If you are experiencing this after modding the trigger.... try increasing the overtravel.... I'm betting the gun will go back to behaving normally.... :wink:

Bob

_________________
Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since!
Airsonal;
Too many! Springers, Pumpers, CO2, but I love my PCPs and developing them!
Proud Member of the 2000+fps Club!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 4:56 pm
Posts: 462
Location: Tecumseh, Ontario in South Western Ontario
Just got a great deal on a Benjamin Maximus which is the less expensive version of the Discovery. Needing only a 2000psi fill it takes over using my scuba tank after my Hatsan requiring 3000psi no longer works optimally.
It has the same trigger which is rough and crazy heavy to pull, affecting my aim. Naturally I searched how Bob handled his trigger.
Even though it's been done before no one explains the theory, the how to, the how to adjust, the does and don'ts and safety precautions as well as Bob does!
The outcome was nothing less than remarkable as all the other mods I've done that he's layed out so succinctly.
Bob you should write a book through the "Dummies Guide" series for airgun tuners.
Ed.

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